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A Solo Stroll Through Baghdad
I am alone in Baghdad. After a farewell dinner and a visit to an Iraqi amusement park my travel companions have left for the airport. Our guards from the Interior Ministry have gone off to other duties and I'm staying unguarded in my hotel. I don't fly out until tomorrow.
I'm not supposed to leave the hotel. Guards are supposed to be with me at all times. While I understand why the government insists on this rule, I've found the guards annoying. They've often made me move on when I've wanted to linger at a place or continue a conversation, and I get the feeling some people didn't approach me because of their presence.
Now I finally have a chance to see Iraq without them. I'm not nervous about this. Well, not too nervous. My hotel is in a good neighborhood and I walked in Basra without a guard and had no trouble. Besides, the biggest risk here is from car bombs and I don't really see what a guard can do about that.
I don't have much of an area to explore. I can't go through a checkpoint alone. The best result I could get from that stunt would be a stern lecture and a police escort back to my hotel. The worst result is something better left unexplored. So my Baghdad tour is limited to one neighborhood circumscribed by police barricades.
The neighborhood is a good one by Baghdad standards, shops and apartment blocks and a few official buildings. The main landmark is the National Theater and a couple of swank hotels. It's considered an up-and-coming and reasonably safe area.
The only problem is that it's the last day of Eid al-Adha, a celebration of Ibrahim's willingness to sacrifice his son Ishmael, known in Christianity and Judaism as the story of Abraham and Isaac. It's one of the biggest holidays in the Muslim calendar and most places are closed.
I pound the pavement past rows of steel shutters. It looks like most people are taking the day off. A middle-aged man and his son come up and say hello. Their English is almost as bad as my Arabic and the conversation soon falters. What I want is to find a like mind, someone with open eyes, a good education, and good English who can explain his country to me. The National Theater seems a likely place. I head over there. Closed.
I continue on my quest. I have a few more "Welcome to Iraq" conversations, each time cut short due to language. I curse myself for not studying more Arabic. One young guy says he'd love to smoke some hash with me but he's all out. Yeah, pot paranoia on the streets of Baghdad. That would have made an interesting article.
Gallery: Walking through Baghdad
One of the few stores I pass that's open is a liquor store. The owners, two guys who look to be in their late 20s, wave me inside. "Where are you from?" "How do you like Iraq?" The usual conversation starts, hampered by bad English and terrible Arabic.
They invite me behind the counter and give me a glass of whiskey and some string cheese. String cheese. I kid you not. I didn't know they had string cheese. Yet another insight into Iraqi culture.
My two companions really, really want to leave Iraq.
"But business is good here," I say, eying the wad of bills in the cash drawer.
"Yes, but too many troubles," they say. "Sometimes Muslim militia come here, take bottles, and no pay."
I shake my head. A lot of the so-called Islamists are actually simple criminals grabbing an opportunity.
They ply me with questions about how to move to Canada, my home country. They're disappointed to hear that Canada wants people with money who can speak English but seem hopeful about the refugee angle. They're from one of Iraq's many persecuted minorities.
As we talk a steady stream of customers come through. None look at me. Muslims always have this guilty look on their faces when they buy booze. It's the same look Western guys get in porn shops. As a joke I start serving customers. My two buddies think this is hilarious. None of the customers bat an eye. Iraqis act nonchalant when stuck in a strange situation they're trying to size up. It's a survival technique. To show that you notice is to become part of the scene, and that's not always healthy.
One of the liquor store owners runs over to a nearby bakery and brings back some fresh, hot pita. Ah, Arab hospitality! This is followed by a second (third?) round of whiskey, another form of hospitality that isn't as rare in the Middle East as you might think. As they break out more string cheese I notice it's getting dark outside. My day of independence is ending. My one real chance to have an immersive experience in Iraqi culture ends with string cheese and an alcohol buzz in a liquor store.
It would have to be good enough. When I told a friend back in Spain that most of my interactions in Iraq were friendly but all too brief and superficial, he replied that Westerners and Iraqis need to have more friendly, superficial meetings. At least it's a start, he said.
Good point, but I wanted more.
Guarded group travel has insurmountable limitations that one day of partial freedom can't break. Those serendipitous experiences don't come on demand. You need time and luck. For me they came a few times on this trip – with pilgrims at the Shia holy shrines, with a child refugee in my hotel lobby, and with an artist on the tough streets of Nasiriyah. Each time these experiences could have – should have – turned into daylong interactions. Each time, though, the group agenda and my guards' concerns meant we had to move on.
Luckily the security situation is slowly improving and there's talk of individual travel opening up throughout Iraq like it already is in Kurdistan. Perhaps in a few years I'll be able to come back and explore Iraq the way adventure travel is supposed to be done – slowly, with no itinerary, and alone.
Don't miss the rest of my series, "Destination: Iraq," chronicling my 17-day journey across this strife-ridden country in search of adventure, archaeology and AK-47s.
Coming up next: "Ten Random Observations About Iraq!"
[Photo by Sean McLachlan]
They invite me behind the counter and give me a glass of whiskey and some string cheese. String cheese. I kid you not. I didn't know they had string cheese. Yet another insight into Iraqi culture.
My two companions really, really want to leave Iraq.
"But business is good here," I say, eying the wad of bills in the cash drawer.
"Yes, but too many troubles," they say. "Sometimes Muslim militia come here, take bottles, and no pay."
I shake my head. A lot of the so-called Islamists are actually simple criminals grabbing an opportunity.
They ply me with questions about how to move to Canada, my home country. They're disappointed to hear that Canada wants people with money who can speak English but seem hopeful about the refugee angle. They're from one of Iraq's many persecuted minorities.
As we talk a steady stream of customers come through. None look at me. Muslims always have this guilty look on their faces when they buy booze. It's the same look Western guys get in porn shops. As a joke I start serving customers. My two buddies think this is hilarious. None of the customers bat an eye. Iraqis act nonchalant when stuck in a strange situation they're trying to size up. It's a survival technique. To show that you notice is to become part of the scene, and that's not always healthy.
One of the liquor store owners runs over to a nearby bakery and brings back some fresh, hot pita. Ah, Arab hospitality! This is followed by a second (third?) round of whiskey, another form of hospitality that isn't as rare in the Middle East as you might think. As they break out more string cheese I notice it's getting dark outside. My day of independence is ending. My one real chance to have an immersive experience in Iraqi culture ends with string cheese and an alcohol buzz in a liquor store.
It would have to be good enough. When I told a friend back in Spain that most of my interactions in Iraq were friendly but all too brief and superficial, he replied that Westerners and Iraqis need to have more friendly, superficial meetings. At least it's a start, he said.
Good point, but I wanted more.
Guarded group travel has insurmountable limitations that one day of partial freedom can't break. Those serendipitous experiences don't come on demand. You need time and luck. For me they came a few times on this trip – with pilgrims at the Shia holy shrines, with a child refugee in my hotel lobby, and with an artist on the tough streets of Nasiriyah. Each time these experiences could have – should have – turned into daylong interactions. Each time, though, the group agenda and my guards' concerns meant we had to move on.
Luckily the security situation is slowly improving and there's talk of individual travel opening up throughout Iraq like it already is in Kurdistan. Perhaps in a few years I'll be able to come back and explore Iraq the way adventure travel is supposed to be done – slowly, with no itinerary, and alone.
Don't miss the rest of my series, "Destination: Iraq," chronicling my 17-day journey across this strife-ridden country in search of adventure, archaeology and AK-47s.
Coming up next: "Ten Random Observations About Iraq!"
[Photo by Sean McLachlan]
Filed under: Learning, Festivals and Events, Food and Drink, Iraq, Middle East, Travel Security
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 3)
Boudi44 Dec 8th 2012 3:06AM
I dont licke this drink
fred Dec 17th 2012 10:22AM
If the Iraqis would start to work on their economy and live together in harmony would be a miracle
adel Dec 12th 2012 2:27AM
Congrats Sean... glad I read your story. You were near the National museum! That's central Baghdad for sure. I as an American/Iraqi would only drive in that area at night specially. Cheers :)
mary collins finn Dec 16th 2012 6:27PM
Very interesting to read this. I have talked to people who have toured in Kurdistan but didn't even know one could enter Baghdad unless one had some military purpose. Will follow your posts.
Thanks
Michael Dec 16th 2012 5:44PM
One of the things on my bucket list is to go back to Iraq and see my old friends.
There's Raheem from out side the back gate to Baghdad International airport. I'd sneek out with another soldier in a borrowed vehicle and get beer, and I mean real beer, Raheem had Corona, MGD, Bud, some european beer by the case. The rest of the convoy would be afraid to go but I declaired myself the beer NCO. Alchol was vervboten, but screw that, every mission could have been our last. Nothing like a good beer buzz after a long stressful trip. We had a mutual conspiracy to get by the MP's. I'd get 10-15 cases @ $20.00, Raheem started comping me with extra cases and a secret stash after we got to know each other.The year was 2003.
Then there's Dief Moshin, google him, he's the third generation caretaker of the world's most well preserved ziggarut in Ur.Unbelieveable person, taught himself english with a dictionary. Knew the history of Ur and gave us a tour that will always be one of my most cherished memmories. He was in National Geographic in an article about the journey of Abraham. At the time the artticle was published he was unable to get a copy because of the sanctions against Iraq. I had my wife find a copy on the internet and had her sent it to me. Presenting it t
michelle Dec 16th 2012 6:03PM
nice story, its amazing how relationships can grow out of nowhere, when people are just being people!
John Dec 17th 2012 1:16AM
Michael - it's too bad you ran out of space! I'll check and see if you continued your missive below. But if you didn't - please,....do so. It's always interesting to learn first hand from others who've "seen" actual people of a Nation that have gone through much and hopefully have some of what they were denied for so long! OH, YES! I see where you continued! Thank you again!
bdnc Dec 16th 2012 5:56PM
WOW, what a great article. I will be looking foward to the next one!!!
Michael Dec 16th 2012 5:58PM
con't He'd never seen it, he was thrilled, I was thrilled to give it to him.
There's the archelogoist at Babylon. We were exploring the ruins early in the morning, weaponless, you could do dumb things like back then, there was no infrastructure, despite the riots and looting at the beginning of the end of Saddam, life was trying to get back to normal. How ironic; civilized, educated people in Babylon. I never expected to see anyone at Babylon, we came in the back and went out the front through the replica Isthar gate, that's where I met him, I forgot his name. I got the rest of the guys and ladies from out convoy and told them this was an opportunity of a lifetime, he took us on a tour of the ruins. The dinar was worthless we had USD that we couldn't spent. I let the troops know to be generous for his hospitality, we gave him enough money to take care of the himself and the staff for several months. God I miss Iraq sometimes, it was a wonderful experience when we wern't waring, It's one of the most beautiful places on earth. I taught myself some rudimentary Arabic. I would love to drive through all the places I was and just socalize like I did in 2003.
mary collins finn Dec 16th 2012 6:45PM
Michael,
Thanks for a fascinating post. I grew up drink the Vietnam era and though I was never in the military my first visit to that country in the early 90's was bitter sweet. A beautiful country, a delightful people and hard to believe that so many thousands of my generation gave their lives in a conflict that is now a troubled memory for both sides.
I hope you get your wish to return there someday soon.
Larry Vargo Dec 16th 2012 8:14PM
To Mary Collins Finn:
Interesting to note as a Vietnam vet they're more over that war than we are, and they took all the bombs.
mgTX Dec 17th 2012 12:34AM
We would get our beer at a place named "The Baghdad Country Club" it was a real hole in the wall close to the BIAP outside the Embassy. It was owned by a Brit. They had some American beer but mostly cases of Carlsburg and Tuborg which is pictured above. The cases were $20 and the cans were more than 12 oz. Good memories!
J.E.B. Dec 16th 2012 6:11PM
The name of the city says it all....."Bag it, dad":
silsez Dec 16th 2012 6:15PM
Good article, very informative on a human level. A rarity from any middle eastern nation these days. Thanks for reminding me there are still decent people living in Iraq Sean, I look forward to the next one.
Walters474 Dec 16th 2012 8:05PM
Being stationed in Ft. Bliss in 1978, I knew a few Kuwait and Jordan soldiers. I've seen wall lockers with loaves of bread, and stacks of bread on thier plates in the chow hall. They don't have white bread in the middle east and never knew what they were missing. They love the stuff that we take for granted.
Larry Vargo Dec 16th 2012 8:16PM
Seems to me what he did see was cause enough for an article, at least to us not there. A liquor store in a militantly Muslim country? Then there's the "pot paranoia". And my favourite, the notion of "safe" adventure travel.
Any or all of these would make for interesting stories in their own right.
Bruce Dec 16th 2012 9:29PM
These peope are sitting on top of some of the most ancient sites in human history. What a shame it's so hard to see them for the rest of us. Pure Islam is pure theocracy, the utter opposite of democracy and respect for individual rights, and even they can't do but lie and sneak under the radar of fanatical believers, and the 1400 year long war between Shia and Sunni started at the first generation after Mohammad. Of course a guy who promised naked teenage girls in heaven called Hori, and fountains of wine (spend eternity drunk in a whorehouse if you kill in Jihad and live like a monk) was in it for profit, and he married a nine year old at the age of fifty-three (wife number nine) which I call rape. Glad I live in a country where I can say that. Human freedom demands the women burn the veil, tolerance of EVERBODY, as the smallest minority is the INDIVIDUAL, and for them to come into civilization. What else?
Infinite Stealth Dec 16th 2012 11:32PM
I would go for this if our countrys past and present lived up to its promises of freedom to every American according to the constitution. But, No. You have to fight for it even after having fought in all this countrys wars. Even that is not good enough or you would not need Amendments to that same constitution in order to enjoy those rights. A place where the President has suffered imeasurable disrespect and racism from his peer's and others but still maintained the dignity one would expect from the President of the United States of America.
John Dec 17th 2012 1:15AM
Indeed Bruce - many humans passed through or settled at this "Fertile Crescent" of life on there ways elsewhere - to and fro. Amazing all that could be found there. The history and archeological buildings and artifacts - from Pharoah's to the British to Saddam - wealth and power - so much squandered though. It's nice to read articles like this and hear of other's visits after so long restricted. Agreed, the religion that finally settled there - broken between the Houses of The Muslim Prophet and Familial declarations at the time of Mohammed's death is much as the Schizms in other religions monotheistically born from Abraham. That the Common Thread has not passed down as it had previously when Jew, Muslim, Christian feasted together for births (circumcisions), High Holy Days (Red Letter Days in the Catholic Church since), marriages, deaths of respected elders and the sharing of harvests and working together - is a shame. Being together against the enemies of all made them strong - but it wasn't to last as the very thing keeping them together was taken over by jealous zealots determined to increase their own power and have Nations in their own images - instead of those of their people. Unfortunate,...unforeseen at the time. And yet, we still suffer from it now even with greater understanding of the totality of the World around us.
sandraGerson Dec 17th 2012 4:23AM
Bruce, I appreciate your response. Correction: Isn't Pure Theocracy a way of Life purely ordained by the Creator, like, rules and laws handed down from G-D?, ...So, how can Islam be pure theocracy?