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Hostility And Smiles On The Streets Of Nasiriyah, Iraq
There comes a time in every trip when the honeymoon ends. The initial romance of being in a new place wears off and you begin to notice the pushy vendors and the dirty hotel rooms. The first blush of love fades like a flower in autumn, hit by the cold winter wind of reality.
My honeymoon with Iraq didn't end with tourist hucksters or filthy hotel rooms – so far we'd had none of those. My honeymoon with Iraq ended when I saw the crater in front of my hotel in Nasiriyah.
"Car bomb last month," the guard explained as he sat in his metal folding chair outside the front door, Kalashnikov resting in his lap. "It kill two men and two babies. One man a teacher."
We had just come out of our hotel to meet a squad of policemen, all wearing Kevlar and toting the ubiquitous AK-47. Our tour leader, Geoff, came up to me.
"This is our escort," he said. "Let's go for a walk around town."
Yeah, let's do that.
Nasiriyah, a city of half a million people on the Euphrates River 225 miles southeast of Baghdad, has been through a lot in the past 20 years. It shows. Many buildings, like the old cinema shown above, are pockmarked by small arms fire. The bridges that spanned the river were destroyed during the invasion and replaced with pontoon bridges. Blast walls and barbed wire are even more common here than the rest of Iraq.
There were only four of us on the tour now, the other six had opted for the shorter tour and were now safely home. With half a dozen police, two guards from the Interior Ministry, and a translator, our little band of foreigners looked far more important than we were. I didn't like that. Important people are targets. That's why the bomber set off his explosives in front of our hotel – it's the nicest in town.
Gallery: On The Streets Of Nasiriyah
Suddenly an iron gate opened across the street and a crowd of teenage schoolgirls came out, all neatly dressed in blue uniforms and matching headscarves. They were headed in our direction and as they paced us on the opposite side of the street we got a lot of sidelong glances and giggles. I was even graced with a smile. Maybe Nasiriyah wasn't such a bad place after all.
One thoughtless member of our group snapped a photo of them and got frowns in return. Idiot. Do you take photos of schoolgirls back home in England? Luckily for him no irate Muslim father came over to defend the family honor. That would have been fun to see.
The police hustled us into a busy market and their tension ratcheted up noticeably. There were few smiles or welcomes here. People gave us hard looks or long, studying stares. It reminded me of the Sunni Triangle. The Sunnis had suffered the worst under the invasion and after the change of Iraq's power structure in favor of the Shia. Nasiriyah, however, was mostly Shia.
So why the hostility? Perhaps it was the heavy losses the local Shias took when they rebelled against Saddam and the West did nothing to help. The city was also the scene of a hard-fought battle in the 2003 invasion over the control of those long-gone bridges. Maybe it was the police escort that soured people to us. Maybe it was that we were being hustled along and didn't have the opportunity to break the ice.
That opportunity came in the middle of the marketplace. Our guide ushered us into a shop as the cops guarded the door. I took one look at the shelves and decided to join the cops on the street. The shop was filled with tourist dreck – cheap tin ashtrays sporting the Iraqi flag and plastic minarets of Samarra. Who sells tourist trash when there are no tourists?
I stepped back onto the sidewalk and one of the cops gave me a dubious look before swiveling around to scan the crowd. From an alley a few steps to my right, a little boy peeked at me. Another little boy peeked around him, and then another. Big brown eyes studied me. Unlike the adults on the street, who gave the half-circle of policemen a wide berth, the kids didn't seem to notice my escort at all.
They ducked back out of sight. I could hear them calling to their friends and in a second a whole crowd of kids burst out of the alley. They stared at me, blinking, unsure, and then one of them pushed another up to me. That one laughed, spun back around, and pushed his friend toward me. In a second, the whole lot of them descended into a giggling riot in miniature, each one trying to push another up to the strange apparition in their street.
I picked one, knelt down in front of him and said, "Hello."
The kid fled to the back of the crowd. One of the braver ones came up to me.
"Nasiriya is my home. Where are you from?"
"I'm from Canada. What's your name?"
That's all it took. Suddenly I was giving an English lesson to a dozen entranced children. The passersby gave me amused glances. One guy came up with his little girl in his arms and asked me to take a photo. Even the cops eased up a little.
As we talked I noticed a couple of the kids standing in front of the alley were looking up and shouting angrily. I looked around the corner. A young boy, maybe 10 years old, sat on the roof two stories above. He extended his arm over the narrow ally, a bottle held in his little hand. He looked me right in the eye, the corners of his mouth turned upwards. But he wasn't smiling.
"Is that for me?" I asked.
His expression didn't change.
In another time and another place I might have stepped into the alley and called his bluff. I decided to stay in the street. I wasn't sure people bluffed here.
Little hands tugged me away from the alley.
"Photo! Photo!" the gaggle of kids demanded. I raised my camera and snapped a shot, then showed them the picture as they squealed with glee.
"One more! One more!"
My travel companions came out of the shop and I said a quick goodbye to my little buddies as the cops hustled us down the street. Soon a tug of war developed between us. The police wanted us to hurry, but I and the others kept slowing down to look in windows and talk with shopkeepers. I peered into one storefront and spotted walls covered in artwork. That stopped me in my tracks. An artist's studio? Here?
I entered, greeting the three men inside. One sat behind a desk sketching a group of galloping horses. He looked up and smiled.
"Welcome! Come in," he rose and shook my hand. "Wait!"
He sat down again and made a few more strokes of his pencil. When the picture was done to his satisfaction he tore it from the sketch pad and offered it to me with a flourish.
"For you. To remember Iraq."
We all started talking. He was a prominent local artist and invited me to his exhibition opening the next morning. One of his friends was an artist too, the other a teacher. We talked of his paintings, which ranged in style from Daliesque surrealism to sharp-eyed realism, and the conversation expanded to a dozen different subjects.
And for a moment everything was OK. I'd found one of those oases that exist in every city, no matter what the people have been through, a place where art and culture and books have value and meaning. A place where people who share no religion or heritage or life experiences in common can be fast friends because of their mutual love for those precious things that separate civilization from savagery.
I'd found the exact place in Iraq I wanted to be. The conversation soared, both sides eager to connect, and I thought back on the other places like this I'd found. At a Bulgarian university and an Ethiopian birtcha. At late-night Madrid literary bars and hick towns in Missouri. In fact, I'd found them everywhere. The only difference was that in some places it took a little longer.
A policeman trudged into the studio, looking as out of place as a grenade in a sack of Easter eggs. He gestured for me to follow him. He'd been doing that for the past five minutes but now he really meant it.
It was time to go. I would not be attending that art opening. That hadn't been pre-approved and stamped and filed and scheduled by the local authorities.
There comes a time in every trip when the honeymoon ends. The champagne has been drunk, the cake is all gone, and it's time to return the keys to the bridal suite. Now comes the long, tough reality of learning just what you've signed up for. Like with marriage it isn't always easy, but getting to know a country for what it is, not what you hoped it would be, can be a lot more rewarding.
Don't miss the rest of my series, "Destination: Iraq," chronicling my 17-day journey across this strife-ridden country in search of adventure, archaeology and AK-47s.
Coming up next: "Visiting The Great Ancient Sites Of Iraq!"
[Photo by Sean McLachlan]