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Kurdistan: The Other Iraq
Families out for an evening stroll, friends sipping coffee at sidewalk cafes, tourists seeing the sights without a police escort – am I still in Iraq?
Sort of.
I'm in Kurdistan, an autonomous region made up of Iraq's three northernmost provinces. The Kurds kicked out Saddam in 1991 after suffering years of bloody persecution, and they've pretty much been doing their own thing ever since. I never saw an Iraqi flag flying in the Kurdish region, only the Kurdish "regional" flag that everyone seems to look to as their national flag. The region even has its own national anthem. The Kurdish government also acts independently at times, such as making oil deals with foreign companies even though they're supposed to be approved by Baghdad.
Erbil, the region's capital, is a boomtown. New buildings are going up everywhere and the shops are full of expensive products and people who can afford to buy them. Auto dealerships, electronics stores, and swank restaurants are everywhere. There's a relaxed, optimistic mood in the air.
The Kurds have reason to be optimistic. A distinct people with their own culture and language, their population stretches across several international boundaries. Kurds are found in Iraq, Iran, Turkey, and Syria. Being a minority with a strong sense of independence has meant they've faced persecution in all of these countries. Now they have their own region and they're doing well for themselves. Kurdistan has the lowest rate of poverty in Iraq thanks to a booming oil and gas industry.
There's even a tourism industry. This is the one part of Iraq where you can travel individually, and an increasing number of curious Westerners are doing just that. Kurdistan's mixture of ancient sites, functioning cities and rugged mountains has a lot to offer.
Gallery: Kurdistan
Like everywhere else in the Middle East, foreign visitors are treated with curiosity and hospitality. Tourism isn't big enough here yet for visitors to be pestered by carpet sellers like in Istanbul or Cairo. The relaxed vibe extends to everyone. As we visited the impressive Erbil citadel, a medieval fortress built atop ruins stretching back at least 7,000 years, we had a steady stream of people welcome us to Kurdistan (always Kurdistan, never Iraq) and chat with us as much as their English would allow.
We had people coming up to us all through Iraq, but here it was different. The locals were less surprised to see us, less anxious to know what we thought of their country. The Kurds show a confidence not seen in other parts of Iraq.
It's difficult to judge a region after such a short visit. I only got to hang out in Erbil for a day, plus see some ancient Assyrian sites and an Iraqi Christian monastery. My impressions are only first impressions and I'm sure I missed a lot. The Kurdish hinterland, with its various factions and ethnic groups, is a mystery to me that would require another long visit to even partially unravel.
There's no doubt that Kurdistan has its share of problems. Not everyone is profiting from the good economy and ethnic minorities complain they aren't getting their fair cut. Still, I get the sense that they're better off than in other parts of Iraq. The oil industry is booming and the leaders of the various factions are keeping a lid on the worst of the violence in order to make money. That's something the factions in the rest of Iraq, intent on getting the whole pie for themselves, just don't understand. They're wrecking the very economy they're trying to control.
Example: on my first day in Baghdad I ditched my guards and went to the market to find my son an Iraq National team football uniform. I nearly got arrested by the Iraqi police and didn't even get the uniform. The security situation made the cops jittery and the market streets were clogged by a series of checkpoints. This, of course, hurts businesses. In Erbil, I wandered freely through a busy market and after a bit of hunting in a new, clean shopping mall found a uniform in my son's size. When I paid for it the shopkeeper added my money to a huge wad of notes he pulled from his pocket. Business was good that day.
I was happy, the shopkeeper was happy, and my son was happy. The difference between Baghdad and Erbil really comes down to that – stability brings prosperity, and that's better for everyone.
Don't miss the rest of my series, "Destination: Iraq," chronicling my 17-day journey across this strife-ridden country in search of adventure, archaeology and AK-47s.
Coming up next: "A Family Night Out In Baghdad!"
[Top photo by Sean McLachlan. Bottom photo by Rob Hammond]
We had people coming up to us all through Iraq, but here it was different. The locals were less surprised to see us, less anxious to know what we thought of their country. The Kurds show a confidence not seen in other parts of Iraq.
It's difficult to judge a region after such a short visit. I only got to hang out in Erbil for a day, plus see some ancient Assyrian sites and an Iraqi Christian monastery. My impressions are only first impressions and I'm sure I missed a lot. The Kurdish hinterland, with its various factions and ethnic groups, is a mystery to me that would require another long visit to even partially unravel.
There's no doubt that Kurdistan has its share of problems. Not everyone is profiting from the good economy and ethnic minorities complain they aren't getting their fair cut. Still, I get the sense that they're better off than in other parts of Iraq. The oil industry is booming and the leaders of the various factions are keeping a lid on the worst of the violence in order to make money. That's something the factions in the rest of Iraq, intent on getting the whole pie for themselves, just don't understand. They're wrecking the very economy they're trying to control.
Example: on my first day in Baghdad I ditched my guards and went to the market to find my son an Iraq National team football uniform. I nearly got arrested by the Iraqi police and didn't even get the uniform. The security situation made the cops jittery and the market streets were clogged by a series of checkpoints. This, of course, hurts businesses. In Erbil, I wandered freely through a busy market and after a bit of hunting in a new, clean shopping mall found a uniform in my son's size. When I paid for it the shopkeeper added my money to a huge wad of notes he pulled from his pocket. Business was good that day.
I was happy, the shopkeeper was happy, and my son was happy. The difference between Baghdad and Erbil really comes down to that – stability brings prosperity, and that's better for everyone.
Don't miss the rest of my series, "Destination: Iraq," chronicling my 17-day journey across this strife-ridden country in search of adventure, archaeology and AK-47s.
Coming up next: "A Family Night Out In Baghdad!"
[Top photo by Sean McLachlan. Bottom photo by Rob Hammond]
Filed under: Arts and Culture, Learning, Middle East, Travel Security
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Ana Lopez Dec 6th 2012 4:05PM
Great news you got Lil Man his Shirt.. what an adventure
Joe Dec 8th 2012 2:23PM
Great article. I spent two months teaching English in Iraqi Kurdistan this summer, visiting cities from Erbil to Dohuk and Zaxo. Your first impressions seem to match my experience as well, the Kurds are so hospitable to Americans. They need to be recognized by the international community as a stable region and gain their own independence before the chaos of Baghdad spills over to Erbil.
Samuel Dec 9th 2012 2:43PM
Good article! I was in Kurdistan in August for my friends wedding, their hospitality is overwhelming, from the moment your plane lands and you are greeted at immigration to locals talking to you on the streets you just can't beat it. I have to say that what I did realise whilst I was over there is that there is now a time window where any number of business opportunities could be exploited. It really is a time of growth.