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A Canadian in Beijing: Vegan Mandarin Language Survival Guide
When I first arrived in China, I wrote a post entitled: "Vegan in China, Part 1." It was pretty negative all around. Why? Because I was hungry! About half-way through my trip, I followed that post up with a piece about the presence of an active vegetarian and vegan society here in Beijing. I would consider that my "Vegan in China, Part 2" post, although it wasn't titled as such. This, then, should be considered my "Part 3" post, as it's now at a point where I'm posting to help the next traveller get through these food dilemmas rather than posting in the hopes that someone will help me!!
I'm on third base and I'm heading home.
(to my own kitchen! I can't wait to do some full-scale cooking again!)
Because I have experienced the trials of getting my language skills to the point where I can successfully feed myself, this post includes the explanation of some necessary short phrases in Mandarin for a person who fits this description:
- non-Chinese speaking
- vegetarian or vegan
- who is in a restaurant
- that isn't necessarily vegetarian
- and staring at a menu
- that isn't written in English
- and is nearly faint with hunger
Under each box, I have explained how to actually say these sentences. This isn't official and I'm not a linguist (let's state the obvious right off the top!) but these are common English words or close approximations which can help an English speaker find these sounds without much difficulty. At least, here's hoping!
So, let's start off with the basic greeting and ice breaker. This is good to say when the waiter or waitress approaches your table and looks at you expectantly. It's both a greeting and a comment, and it's very casual and so it will probably make them laugh or smile if they're not completely overworked and miserable to begin with!
Pronunciation Approximation: Knee-how, woe doe kuai euh seuh le
Here "kuai" is like the sound of "kw" put with the word "eye," also known as one of the casual words for the currency here in China. Also, "euh" is like the vowel sound of the word "wood" in English. Just take off the "w" and the "d" and that's your sound. If that doesn't work for you and you speak any French, then this sound is also the sound of the French letter "e." Another tip is the tail end of the German word "adieu" but with the German pronunciation! Finally, these three words "euh seuh le" all rhyme. I left "le" as it stands in its pinyin form because almost everyone pronounces that one correctly on first sight!
Other options include: "Wo hen e" 我很饿！ or "wo feichang e" 我非常饿！ = "I'm very hungry" and "I'm extremely hungry," respectively. Pronunciation Approximation: "woe hun euh" or "woe fay-chong euh."
Next, we'll move to the crux of the issue. You've just expressed that you're really hungry but this isn't going to be easy. This is a great place to also put the opening "I am a vegetarian" statement (see image that starts this blog.) It can either follow #2 or precede #2. The word "but" is "danshi" and can easily be removed at anytime. It's just a filler here.
Pronunciation Approximation: Dan sheuh, woe e dee-are roe yeh boo cheuh
Here the "e" is just as it looks. It sounds just like the letter "e" in English as though you're naming the letter in the alphabet.
Next, you need to acknowledge the fact that you've no idea what's happening on the menu that has been set before you and you need the server's help. I can teach you how to say "I don't understand this" or "I can't read Chinese," but that's just boring. Why not enlist their assistance in the process? You can wave your hand at the menu and/or close it altogether. Most people assume that foreigners can't read Chinese anyway, and so I think it's unnecessary to state the obvious if this is the case.
The following is a casual and friendly way to request their help ordering. Since they already know that you're not a meat eater, they will now (ideally) only suggest vegetarian options! Feel free to repeat the statement above (#2) to reinforce your point.
Pronunciation Approximation: Knee gay woe tway gee-anne gee geuh bah
Don't forget that "gee" is not a hard "g" but a soft "g." This is the fifties word of "darn," for more context! Also, If you're still having trouble with that "euh" sound then here is another tip: this "geuh" is the beginning of "good" without the "d" at the end of it.
Now, here's yet another point of clarity. Sometimes the server will respond to your request for their suggestions (above) with yet more questions about what you're interested in, i.e. what flavours you'd like, whether you can eat hot foods, etc. If you don't speak Chinese, this will all be fired at you with questioning eyes and it will only be responded to in return by your questioning eyes of complete confusion. Generally, if you don't know what has been said to you, keep the doors open! This comment, below, encourages them to be more assertive in their suggestions to you and gets you closer to food.
Pronunciation Approximation: Jeuh yao may yo roe doe keuh yee
Here, "yao" rhymes with "mao," as in the Chairman!
Now, much vegetarian food here in China contains eggs. In fact, it's been really hard to find soups without egg in them, for example. Dumplings are often made with eggs, as well, even if they're not described as such on the menu. So, if you're vegan and you don't want your vegetable soup to arrive with egg floating in it, then this next sentence is really vital.
Pronunciation Approximation: Woe yeh boo cheuh gee dan
Next, here is another phrase that is useful for the vegans out there! Now, it's not exactly a lie. Technically, if you've been a vegan for a while then your body will stop producing lactase, the enzyme necessary to breakdown lactose which is found in milk products. Thus, eating lactose will result in a great big stomach ache and some might identify this response as a typical allergic reaction! (What's more, lots of people are lactose intolerant these days and so it's not so rare for restaurants to hear, even in China.)
I do find this explanation works a hell of a lot better than expressing that you choose to simply not consume dairy products. In the bubble tea line-up, you'll be sure to get a few odd stares when you just say that you don't drink milk. An allergy makes everyone more vigilant about protecting you and their livelihood. In fact, sometimes I even use the allergy angle in English-speaking countries...
Pronunciation Approximation: Woe dway knee-oh nigh jeuh pin goa min
By "nigh" I mean the word that rhymes with "eye!" I know it's not a very common word, but it's still in the dictionary! Also, "goa" is just like "boa," as in the snake!
Finally, this is your last resort. When there's no way to get any food because you have not been understood in the least and everyone looks lost and frustrated, saying the following phrase while also cupping your hands in a small bowl and simultaneously pointing to something white (or pointing at the bowls on someone else's table!) will surely get you some white rice. Afterall, this is a staple food here!
Pronunciation Approximation: Gay woe e wawn bye fun
Here "wawn" rhymes with "yawn" and don't forget that the "e" is just like the sound of the English letter "e" when you're naming it off in the alphabet.
Alright, here lies the end of this quick-vegetarian-or-vegan-language-survival-in-a-restaurant lesson!
And, as I said in my last post, if all else fails then there are always "su baozi" (pronounced: sue bao zeuh). See this post for more information on this tasty restaurant replacement food!
But mostly, the possibilities are here and China has shown me that there is even more for me to eat in a restaurant (besides salad!) than in a typical North American restaurant. I have completely changed my tune from the Part 1 post; there's so much out there for me to eat! My body is happy.
My official stance on the issue is this:
The visiting vegan or vegetarian should have no trouble in Beijing.
Oh, I guess you could also just print this off! Then, you can just show the server these phrases and the only reason for opening your mouth can be to put food inside it!