A Canadian in Beijing: The Great Baozi, A Tribute

I have put on weight in the past month, partly due to almost zero working out (too hot, too polluted, too much else to distract me) and partly due to my discovery of the amazing food known as "baozi" 包子.
Yum.
Now, I'm generally not a big person and I was honestly worried about dying for hunger the first three weeks that I was here. I lost a bit too much weight, I'd say, and I really didn't have much to lose. My body has recovered, however, and then some... which is not a bad thing in the least. I got curves now! I'm not complaining.
So this is a small tribute to the glorious "su baozi" 素包子 (vegetarian baozi) and how they have joined forces with my language study to help me, bit by bit, find food to eat in this city that isn't imported from overseas or grossly overpriced in western restaurants. (See my next post for a Vegetarian Language Surivival Guide!)
What makes baozi great? Let me tell you. . .

Baozi are steamed breads with various fillings. Usually, they are filled with meats of various kinds, but "su baozi" are vegetable-filled and they are delicious. Think of a dumpling but imagine that the outside is soft bread instead of the dumpling skin which is usually boiled or fried. This steamed bread is delicious and even more delicious when the inside is all vegetarian. (Or, so I'm assuming since I have not tried the meat ones!)
In fact, I discovered these treats here at the school outdoor canteen. Many "su baozi" are filled with chopped green vegetables that are also combined with "ji dan" (eggs.) Here at the canteen they make their "su baozi" that way and so, being the vegan that I am, I developed a system of methodically picking out the bits of egg every morning before eating them. It was easy and the resulting egg-free (reasonably small) baozi were delicious. I would eat four to six of them every morning (two for 1 kuai) and sometimes pick up more for lunch. Okay, I'll admit it: sometimes I lived on baozi all day. (I have truly been a bachelor in the food department.)
Then I discovered the baozi at the market.

The same market that I wrote about last week has the most amazing baozi vendor and the women who work there have come to recognize me. They have all different kinds of vegetarian baozi including egg-free options (mushroom and greens) and "mala dofu" (spicy tofu) options. They are incredible, not to mention the fact that they're fresh from the steamers when you buy them (i.e. still steaming) and are twice the size of the ones at the canteen. What's more (and there is more!), they are the same price as the ones at the school and you get twice as much for your money.
This is my kind of food.

So, of course I go there and buy them by the steaming bag full. That doesn't sound delicious... unless you know about baozi. <wink> I even asked these women to pose for a photo with me the last time I went there, fearing it would be my last trip to this oasis. They obliged my request with a smile.

Aw, even writing this post is making me crave more, more, more! (Is that my new-found wheat addiction?)
When I came to China, I was also wheat-free. In fact, I've been mostly wheat-free for the past couple of years. I'm not allergic, but one of my band members is (Lyndell) and I've also read terrible things about how wheat is produced these days and what it does to one's body. So, my first period of time here in China was also wheat-free.
That, however, went right about the window when I discovered baozi. Perhaps I'm now not only addicted to the taste of the baozi in general, but I'm also addicted to the gluten in the wheat? It's possible!

Now, I know this doesn't constitute a complete diet and so I have to admit that I have done a bit more exploring in the world of food here. Most of this exploring has come through friends' suggestions or through my own risk-taking in restaurants. So far, just a few stomach aches later, I'm feeling great and confident about the food here.
What I'm getting at is that this post is only meant to offer a singular suggestion in a world where there are many options. My next post will offer some assistance when seeking those options. Mainly, it's a language issue and so I'm hoping that some key phrases will keep fellow vegans from starvation in Beijing!
But, if all else fails, then there are always "su baozi" (pronounced: sue bao zeuh).
They help put meat on your bones. . .
Without eating meat!
Filed under: Arts and Culture, Food and Drink, Blogs, Asia, China, A Canadian in Beijing





















Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Jun 26th 2007 @ 12:04AM
ctswift said...
Here I am at 11:45 at night, getting hungry for su baozi. You made it sound so delicious! Since, I have been dieting lately, this doesn't look like it would presently fit into my plan. Plus, I never eat this late. Actually, I have lost 14 pounds just being sensible and eating healthy food combinations. Amazingly enough, eating Temple's Xocai chocolates, has also helped me to loose weight and control my cravings. Hard to imagine that anything as good as chocolate could do that, but it does. Have you had a chance to go onto her website "www.lifewithchocolate.net?" Maybe, you should have your own site called "lifewithsubaozi." You certainly have been an excellent sales person for anyone about to visit Beijing looking for something tasty to eat. Loved the photo of you with the two ladies. You look very contented. Maybe you could find out all about the recipe so that you can practise on us once you return. See you soon!
Love from Woodstock
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Jun 26th 2007 @ 1:46AM
erika said...
i'm filipino and your description (and initial picture) prompted me to comment that it looks a lot like a filipino snack/dish that i'm fond of called 'siopao.' looking it up on wikipedia, i found out that they're one and the same. however, i've only ever had the meat option because i've never found vegetarian options in the 'oriental markets' i've been to in the states (illinois, to be specific).
i agree--they're delicious. and now i'll actually try looking harder for a vegetarian siopao/(su) baozi so my girlfriend could try it out as well.
enjoy your next few days in china :)
Reply
Jun 26th 2007 @ 8:01AM
Dick Swift said...
Picking egg out of su baozi?
Thinking music, since you'll be returning to that scene soon, I envision a dual La Crosse, WI concert featuring you and Dar Williams, whose often haunting songs would complement yours marvelously. Her lyrics, like yours, have great depth...poetry.
Wheat has been good for you for sure. You needed a few more pounds. Fran and I both have lost weight over the past month or two by foregoing anything white. Whole wheat creeping into our menu now.. but huge salads have become a daily event.
Can you pass on the su baozi dough/cooking process to us? Is Lyndell home from India? WOW.. just checked your schedule and you'll be at the Pump House in La Crosse in February. Fantastic !!!!
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Jun 26th 2007 @ 4:30PM
sarah in kingston (now ottawa) said...
you should definitely find a good recipe and take it back to canada! sell them at shows and convert the people to good vegan deliciousness! i read they're amazing made with rice flour so they could be wheat-free too. you could make millions off this. haha.. enjoy the rest of your stay :)
-s.
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Jun 26th 2007 @ 5:51PM
Dick Swift said...
boazi recipe... one of many
http://allrecipes.com/Recipe-Tools/Print/Recipe.aspx?RecipeID=7031&servings=24&Format=Full
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Jun 26th 2007 @ 8:37PM
Rob said...
I hate to burst your bubble, but I guarantee you that at least some of that Baozi is made with meat juice, as is pretty much every vegetable dish outside of a Buddhist restaurant in that country. That being said, meat byproducts are unavoidable in China unless you do your own cooking from scratch so you may as well enjoy it.
Also try to find "stinky doufu" I think it may actually be vegan, and if you can stand the smell of baozi then you may like it.
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Jun 26th 2007 @ 9:09PM
biker_frog said...
In Philly there's a restaurant called "Kingdom of Vegetarians Restaurant" and around the corner (in chinatown) there are lots of bakeries that make lots of meat and veg filled items. Those are my favourite places to go when visiting the city of brotherly love...Zan
Reply
Jul 12th 2007 @ 5:38PM
rrgg said...
>I guarantee you that at least
>some of that Baozi is made with meat juice
Meat juice is the least of your worries. Check this out:
I thought this might interest some reading this thread:
http://www.cnn.com/2007/WORLD/asiapcf/07/12/cardboard.food.ap/index.html
Chinese food 'made from cardboard'
Chopped cardboard, softened with an industrial chemical and flavored with fatty pork and powdered seasoning, is a main ingredient in batches of steamed buns sold in one Beijing neighborhood, state television said. [text deleted]
"This baozi filling is kind of tough. Not much taste," he says. "Can other people taste the difference?"
...
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Aug 9th 2007 @ 8:52PM
nichelle said...
That cardboard story isn't real. The article and the video were fabricated by the reporter. It's just another in a long line of articles hell bent on scaring foreigners away from Chinese food.
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