Dispatch from China: Tracking and playing with pandas (part 2 of 2)

Read part 1 of this story here.
The excited cry of a park ranger pierces the stillness of a bamboo forest high in the Min Mountains. Zhan Xiangjiang, an ecologist who I'm hanging out with for the day, bounds through waist-deep snowdrifts to investigate. Catching up with the ranger, he kneels down and points at a small, round object that, at first glance, looks like a greenish yam. "Smell this!" he says to me.
The not-unpleasant odor of fresh bamboo wafts up. Along with other clues--chewed bamboo stalks, paw prints, and urine-marked trees--the fresh scat is the latest evidence that Zhan's monitoring team is hot on the heels of a giant panda.

On a nondescript street near downtown Harbin, the Double Mountain Local Products Wholesale Center offers the usual array of kitsch items stripped from the wilderness:
The manager is certain the bottles are the genuine article because, she says, "they came from over at that tiger park". She is referring to the
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