Exploring The Marvels Of Croatia's Modric Cave

Lois Friedland — Wed, 26 Dec 2012 09:00:00 EST

Filed under: Hiking, Europe, Croatia, Budget Travel

Twist your head to the right, your body to the left and wiggle through the crack, urged the guide leading us through Modric Cave in Croatia. Pretending I was a pretzel worked. After dragging my lagging left leg through a fissure between caverns, I re-lit my carbide miner's lamp and stood stunned by the beauty of crystals sparkling on the curvaceous stalactites. My husband, who was a spelunker in his earlier days, couldn't stop grinning and told me that he'd never seen a cave so pristine.

We were partially through a two-hour excursion into the cave, which is located less than 20 miles from the ancient city of Zadar and about a three-hour drive north of Dubrovnik. The adventure had started with a 10-minute walk over rocky ground to the entrance, within view of a calm, azure Adriatic Sea. Our guide, Marijan, unlocked the iron gate barring the entrance to the cave, so that our group of five could enter. Looking at the opening, the size of a book-return slot at a library, we eyed each other wondering how we could slip through it. Grab the rock wall, slide your feet through the crack while resting your back on the grate, wiggle through, then twist around and drop to the ground, Marijan directed. Following his directions (mentally thanking the helmet on my head when it smacked the grate), I wound up in a space barely big enough to hold the group.

During the time we spent exploring Modric Cave, we gingerly climbed over rocks or contorted our bodies to wiggle through small cracks in walls to marvel at the formations in the larger caverns. Our lamps revealed nature's beauty created over millions of years. The cave is still "living" - growing with drops of water depositing tiny bits of calcium carbonate on the formations - and we were admonished not to touch them. Colored stalactites hung from the ceiling, with drops of water at the bottom you knew would one day add a millimeter to the glistening column. Stalagmites had dew-laden tops from the ground water seeping through the ceiling high above. Entering cavern after cavern in this 829-meter-long cave, we were awed as Marijan pointed out flows, columns and speleo shapes ranging from cuttlefish and jellyfish to a formation that looked like a turtle.

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Coffee Cupping In Colombia

Lois Friedland — Mon, 03 Sep 2012 10:00:00 EST

Filed under: Food and Drink, Colombia, Central America

"A hint of chocolate, a whisper of citrus," he tells the barista. He's a foodie, so unlike me, he actually smells these aromas. This isn't a wine tasting - I'm at a coffee cupping in a coffee lab in Bogota, Colombia. Coffee cupping is a ritual taken very seriously by food and wine geeks, and an intriguing challenge for caffeine addicts like me.

We're standing around a table in the pristine lab that's tucked behind a glass wall in E&D Cafés. Locals seated at tables in the coffee bar on the far side of the glass drink espresso and stare at us, while cafe owner Jamie Duque introduces us to the ritual.

Ten empty cups sit on the table before me near a metal bowl, our spittoon. We start by taking a sip from each of the first four cups, which have been filled with different types of water. After each sip, we spit into the metal bowl before moving on to the next one. Deciding which cups hold the sweet, salty, bitter and acidic tastes helps activate our palates.

I step back to take a picture and bump into the metal counter that stretches the length of the room. On it, there's an industrial-size coffee grinder and containers with clear water that Jean's assistant is using to fill our coffee cups. A colorful coffee taster's flavor wheel hangs on the wall. At one end of the room a massive coffee-bean roaster sits against a brick wall and there's a lingering smoky scent, perhaps from the last coffee that was roasted.

Apparently there are more than 30 different aromas a truly sensitive palate can taste while drinking coffee, according to Duque. Coffee from the central region of Colombia, for example, tends to be sweet because sugar cane also is grown in the same location. Coffee from Sumatra, however, has a more earthy taste, because the beans dry on the soil, Duque says.
After this discussion, we move to three more cups that have been filled with samples of the inexpensive brands of coffee one buys off a supermarket shelf. Duque pours water into them and says, "Break the crust gently by moving the spoon back and forth to release the aroma. Then, sniff hard."

I follow his instructions but have to swallow a giggle listening to my friends sniff like they are in the fourth day of a cold. Here's when the suggestions start flowing. "Chocolate," "bitter," "sweet," different people reply. I keep quiet, recognizing that subtle coffee tastes are not my forté. To me, it's "just right," "too strong," or "too weak."

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Coffee Cupping In Colombia originally appeared on Gadling on Mon, 03 Sep 2012 10:00:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

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