David Farley
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I'm tired of pork. There, I said it. Pork belly, bacon, pulled pork, pork shoulder, pork terrines, charcuterie, head cheese, roasted suckling pig, porchetta, pancetta. I'm ready for this macho eating craze for all things piggy to finally go away.
I was blind drunk in a town most non-locals can't pronounce. I'm blaming the waitress for this. Pronounced "Slav-oh-neetzay," this town of 2,500 is too small to occupy the visitor for more than a day, which is one of the reasons I was spending the afternoon in a pub.
The pounding began at 12:46 a.m., a slow banging that echoed through the courtyard of our tiny ground-floor apartment in the center of Paris.
Standing in front of the bus door at Sheretmetyevo airport in Moscow, I steepled my hands at a young woman and begged her to pay my bus fare. I had no rubles and was dangerously close to missing my connecting flight to Minsk. There was supposed to be a free Aeroflot shuttle but it never materialized. This city bus was my only chance of getting to the next terminal. Based on what cab drivers wanted to take me there – $50 – the terminal was in Siberia, or so it seemed.
The founder of Lonely Planet guidebooks espouses a philosophy that through travel, the world can become a more peaceful place. It's true. I can no longer count the times stereotypes have been completely shattered when I go to a new country. The Polish, for example, don't need ten people and a ladder to screw in a light bulb. Likewise, the Mexicans aren't shiftless, sombrero-wearers who use donkeys to get from one bar to the next. Other times, however, a stereotype can confirm a preconceived image we had before going to a country: many Italians really do speak with their hands. And it's a fact that Germans drink a lot of beer. Similarly, the first time I was in Paris, in the early-'90s, I remember seeing designer-clad women walking down the Champs Elysees holding perfectly groomed toy poodles on a leash. I left France, having only spent 24 hours there with this image remaining in my mind.
Ask almost any seasoned traveler (or travel writer) about their most memorable journeys and you'll likely get a tale of pain and suffering. "The best trips are the worst trips," is a quip I constantly hear coming from travel writers' mouths. And they're right. Not only because, after the fact, it makes for good verbal consumption at a party but because it does something deeper to us. It almost feels like in those moments – smack in the middle of a desperate what-the-hell-am-I-going-to-do-now? moment – we're really living. We don't realize it at the time but being out of our comfort zone – even in such dark places we'd never willingly put ourselves – we become human.
I wasn't necessarily in Croatia to find an aphrodisiac. But there I was standing on the Adriatic shore just outside of Rovinj on the Istrian peninsula with some local conspiracy theorist/café owner staring at a pile of twigs in the palm of his hand. "Here, eat it," he said. "It's good for, you know, the sex." And then, as I chewed the bitter weed that he'd just pulled from the ground, he began a long tirade about how multi-national banks are controlling our thoughts.
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