Gadling http://www.gadling.com Gadling http://www.blogsmithmedia.com/www.gadling.com/media/feedlogo.gif Gadling http://www.gadling.com en-us Copyright 2013 Weblogs, Inc. The contents of this feed are available for non-commercial use only. Blogsmith http://www.blogsmith.com/<![CDATA[In The Lagoon, At Midnight]]>http://www.gadling.com/2012/12/11/in-the-lagoon-at-midnight/http://www.gadling.com/2012/12/11/in-the-lagoon-at-midnight/http://www.gadling.com/2012/12/11/in-the-lagoon-at-midnight/#commentsFiled under: , , , ,



The Pacific is inconstant and uncertain like the soul of man ...
The trade wind gets into your blood and you are filled with an impatience for the unknown.
- William Somerset Maugham

It was the last place I expected to feel lonely: on a little coral atoll in the South Pacific, home to the Tahitian black pearl farm where I would be volunteering for a month.

And during the day, I didn't. Mornings were spent on the lagoon, in a long silver jon boat as I helped three men haul in baskets of oysters. The baskets hung deep below the surface on a network of ropes, swaying lightly like shirts on a clothesline, waiting for a breeze. Afternoons found us back on the farm, a rag-tag sort of building that was perched on stilts over the reef. We'd talk, make lunch, play Yahtzee, drink a hundred cups of instant coffee.

Only at night, when the men returned to their rooms and I was left to my own devices in my bungalow for one, did the loneliness creep in, the one ghost I can never quite shake no matter where I am in the world. It was too perfect - this bungalow whose bright blue exterior matched the turquoise lagoon just steps away, this rickety bridge connecting my atoll with the farm, this narrow island called Ahe, where the only thing marking our days was the sun itself, bright, golden, omnipresent. All of it served only to remind me that I had no one to share this with.

One day after lunch, the farm's manager, an attractive Frenchman named Lucien, asked if I wanted to go to the village with him. I jumped at the thought of movement, at this chance to see more of Ahe beyond the farm.

As we set out across the lagoon, he stood in the back of the boat, one hand on the motor, the other holding a beer. We cut lightly across the water, skipping even, but a bump from a larger wave sent sea spray flying into my face. I turned around. Lucien cocked an eyebrow and bit his lip into the hint of a grin. I wasn't sure if it was him or another wave that made my stomach do a flip. I leaned back on my arms and stretched my legs out in front of me, feeling lucky to have my own private chauffeur across a crystalline sea.

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In The Lagoon, At Midnight originally appeared on Gadling on Tue, 11 Dec 2012 10:00:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

Permalink | Email this | Comments]]>adventure-travelAheFrench PolynesiaFrenchPolynesiaPacific OceanSouth PacificW. Somerset MaughamTue, 11 Dec 2012 10:00:00 EST<![CDATA[Beneath The Almond Tree: A Moroccan Memory]]>http://www.gadling.com/2012/09/05/beneath-the-almond-tree-a-moroccan-memory/http://www.gadling.com/2012/09/05/beneath-the-almond-tree-a-moroccan-memory/http://www.gadling.com/2012/09/05/beneath-the-almond-tree-a-moroccan-memory/#commentsFiled under: , , , ,



"A single act of kindness throws out roots in all directions,
and the roots spring up and make new trees."
- Amelia Earhart

Roses aren't supposed to let you down.

Neither are rose festivals, one of which had drawn my friend Liz and me to Morocco's Valley of Roses this May. There wasn't much written online about the festival, but what the guidebooks and websites lacked in details, my mind more than made up for in expectations.

Liz met me in Tangier's Gare Tanger Ville station, where we bought tickets for our overnight train to Marrakech, stretched out our nearly 6-foot frames across pumpkin-colored leather couchettes, and woke to fields separated by prickly pear cacti, a lone figure picking handfuls of grass at dawn. We were in Marrakech long enough to catch a bus 300 kilometers east to Kelaat M'Gouna, what we assumed, or rather hoped, was a small village, its dusty air perhaps sweetened by the presence of roses.

The train had taken eleven hours, the bus would be six, but what propelled us, urging us ever forward, were our expectations of the festival, an annual celebration to mark the rose harvest each spring.

We carry so much with us when we travel, much more than the neatly (or not so neatly) folded items in our suitcases. But the most dangerous thing we bring, tucked in between regulation-size shampoo bottles and extra pairs of socks, is expectation. The moment we begin to envision a new place, to believe how it will be, is the moment that same place begins to fail us.

In the title poem from her collection, "Questions of Travel," Elizabeth Bishop writes, "Think of the long trip home. Should we have stayed at home and thought of here? Where should we be today?... Oh, must we dream our dreams and have them, too?" Bishop perfectly captures the traveler's dilemma: do we risk disappointment and failed expectations for the reality of somewhere different? Or would it not be better to leave our visions intact and live through imagination - not actual experience?

Gallery: Valley of Roses, Morocco

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Beneath The Almond Tree: A Moroccan Memory originally appeared on Gadling on Wed, 05 Sep 2012 10:00:00 EST. Please see our terms for use of feeds.

Permalink | Email this | Comments]]>africafoodmoroccoWed, 05 Sep 2012 10:00:00 EST