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Not Constantinople: 9 Misconceptions About Istanbul, Turkey

The country of Turkey has been getting a lot of bad press this year, due to the tragic disappearance and murder of American Sarai Sierra in Istanbul, and the suicide bombing at the U.S. Consulate in Turkish capital city Ankara, which was quickly linked to a Marxist group protesting the Turkish position on the war in Syria (a Turkish security guard was killed, no Americans were harmed). Both events are scary and horrible, but their discussion in the news highlighted a lot of ignorance and hate about Turkey and against Muslim countries, women and solo travel.
As a as a female traveler, mother and former Istanbul expat, Sierra's disappearance especially resonated with me and many of my friends. I arrived in Istanbul for a visit the day her body was discovered, and the Turkish and American press were full of rumors and speculation for weeks following, with no real evidence or leads at solving her case. Several fellow expats - all women who have spent plenty of time solo in Turkey - have responded with their feelings about being female in Istanbul, writing about relative safety in America vs. Turkey, the greater issues of domestic violence and sex trafficking and the risks all women of the world face. We feel disturbed that such a thing could happen in a place we feel safer in than many other world cities, defensive about our adopted country, its people and their faith, and disappointed in the misinformation and bigotry about Turkey and the Muslim world.
If you have reservations about travel in Turkey, alone, as a woman or both, please look beyond the hateful and incorrect comments to the many people who have happily traveled and lived in Istanbul and Turkey. In case you read no further than this paragraph, I will say that in my three years in Istanbul, I never felt unsafe, harassed or threatened, and in traveling in 13 countries with my baby, Turkey remains to me the most child-friendly in the world.
1. Turkey is part of the Middle East - Geographers may quibble, given Turkey's borders with Syria, Iraq and Iran, but it also borders EU members Bulgaria and Greece, as well as Central Asian countries of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, so it could claim membership in several regions. Politically, many of the people of Turkey would rather align themselves with Europe, and they have been bidding to get into the European Union since 1987. Better to say it is part of the Muslim world (which includes counties in Asia and Africa) than to lump it in with the Middle East.
2. The women all wear burqas - A little background: when Mustafa Kemal (aka Atatürk, the most recognizable man in the country, whose face you'll see in every Turkish business and on the money) founded the Turkish Republic in 1923, he made it a strictly secular state. One of his reforms was to ban religious headgear from state universities and public buildings. This is now being contested as a point of religious freedom, but in essence, Turkish women are not required to cover their bodies or hair, and many dress the same as women in the U.S. or Europe. You will see some women who wear a headscarf and long jacket, but you will also see women uncovered, even dressed immodestly. After "East meets West," one of the biggest cliches in Istanbul travel writing is to mention the contrast of "miniskirts and minarets." Often, the women you might see on the streets in Istanbul wearing a full black hijab or burqa are Arab tourists, or immigrants from the East. The headwear law also applies to the fez hat, so that red tasseled hat you bought at the Grand Bazaar would actually really offend the founder of modern Turkey.
3. You can't drink alcohol, find pork or eat during Ramadan - In addition to being a secular country (there is no official religion, and the 99% Islamic demographic includes the many non-practicing Turks who might only culturally identify as Muslim), Turkey is very liberal and lenient. While the country has many observant Muslims who do not drink alcohol or eat pork, there are plenty of others who enjoy their Efes beer and a pizza with prosciutto. I've heard the explanation from many Turks that the Koran doesn't say not to drink alcohol at all, but rather not to become intoxicated (though you'll see plenty of drunkenness around Taksim on a Saturday night). I'd rather not try to dissect or debate religious doctrine, so just know that Istanbul has a thriving nightlife scene, and while alcohol is becoming more expensive due to increased taxes, it's readily available. Turkey even produces many beers, wines and liquors, like the anise-flavored raki, also known as "lion's milk", of varying quality and price points. Pork is harder to come by, but you will find it in many larger supermarkets and some upscale restaurants, usually at a high premium. I've found fewer Turks who eat pork than drink alcohol, mostly because they haven't grown up eating it, but they won't begrudge you a bacon craving. Finally, if you are visiting during the Ramadan holiday, you'll find it mostly business as usual in Istanbul and other major tourist areas, and unlike other Muslim countries, foreigners are not expected to fast and are often invited to share in the nightly iftar feasts.
4. It's a hot, desert climate and everyone rides a camel - Possibly due to the Middle East connection, people seem to imagine Turkey as a desert with hot weather and no change in seasons. Istanbul is actually on the same latitude as Chicago and New York City, with similar weather patterns; winters are cold, even snowy, and summers are humid. The country has nearly every type of climate, and there are many bodies of water around and throughout, including the Mediterranean, Aegean and Black Seas (and the Bosphorus Strait, dividing Europe and Asia, of course). Not sure where the camel idea came from, likely the same misguided idea that it's a desert country in the Middle East, but I've yet to see any camels in Istanbul. You might find them as strictly-tourist photo ops in Cappadocia, or even camel-wrestling matches on the Aegean coast, but you aren't likely to see any ambling down Istiklal Caddesi.
5. The food is spicy - Possibly all those pictures of colorful saffron piles at the Spice Market (actually called the Egyptian Bazaar) have given many the impression that Turkish food is very hot and spicy. While there are many varieties of dishes, and some can pack quite a punch, most of the popular foods are rather mild: roasted lamb or beef kebabs, kofte meatballs, grilled fish, manti ravioli and the many varieties of pizza-like fast foods like pide, lahmacun and the like. Compared to the hot spices of Morocco or Southeast Asia, Turkish cuisine is downright cool, but still totally delicious.
6. Men have harems - Assuming that Muslim men have many wives is about as offensive as assuming Mormons all live like the TV show "Big Love." Again, you can thank Atatürk for making polygamy illegal back in 1926, and it's a jailable offense. While it's possible that you might find a few rogue polygamists living out in the far east of the country, the only harem you'll find in Istanbul is at Topkapi Palace - which has been a museum for nearly 100 years. Turkey has come a long way from the days of the Ottoman Empire, and likes to distance itself from the old ways of the sultans. Women are highly respected in Turkey, and afforded all the rights and privileges of "Western" women.
7. They speak Arabic - In case the above points haven't made it clear, Turkey is a country of Turks, not Arabs, and the language is also distinct. With a few additions and subtractions, Turkish has a Latin alphabet, thanks to yet another Atatürk reform (see why they love him?), and while it has some "loanwords" from Arabic (it also has many from French, Persian and English), it's closer linguistically to Mongolian, Korean and Japanese. The concept of vowel harmony and subject-object-verb grammar have confounded many new speakers like myself, but you'll have a much easier time reading Turkish than Arabic. At the airport, will you hail a taksi or a تاكسي?
8. It's a war zone - Turkey has had a few small-scale bombings in the past decade, which are scarily detailed on the U.S. State Department's page on security threats. This has resulted in increased security in large hotels, malls, museums and office buildings, and it's common (if a bit jarring) to see metal detectors and car trunks checked on entry in such public spaces. All that said, you aren't going to see tanks rolling through Istanbul, and you aren't likely to be in danger unless you are in the far east of the country. How about their neighbors in conflict? Turkey is a huge country, slightly larger than Texas, and Istanbul itself is closer geographically to Athens, Milan, and Zurich than it is to Tehran, and over 500 miles from Syria. The possibility of terrorist attacks are, unfortunately, a part of life no matter where you are, and Istanbul is as safe as any major world city (and with lower street crime than most other European capitals). In many ways, I feel safer in Istanbul than New York.
9. They hate Americans - Despite the above mentioned security threats and February's embassy bombing in Ankara, the U.S. State Department does not warn against general travel to Turkey, and Turkey is considered an important ally of the United States. You are advised to "stay current with media coverage of local events and be aware of their surroundings at all times" in Turkey, as with anywhere in the world. Turkey does not condone the actions of Al-Qaeda or any other terrorist organizations. On a micro level, you will rarely encounter anti-American sentiment in Turkey, and you will find most Turks to be friendly, helpful and big fans of American culture ("Mad Men" and "How I Met Your Mother" are quite popular).
Of course, it's impossible to make blanket statements about any one culture or country, and many of the current events and issues happening in Turkey are beyond the scope of a travel blog, but we hope more Americans will discover what a safe, modern and hospitable country Turkey is and plan a trip there themselves (Turkish Airlines is one of the world's best airlines and has some great deals this spring).
Any other myths or generalizations you've heard about Turkey? We'd love to set you straight! Share your experiences traveling in Turkey with us.
[Photo credit: Flickr user James Cridland]












Reader Comments (Page 1 of 2)
Dave Seminara Mar 7th 2013 12:30PM
Right on! Turkey is a great place to visit. And most find it very safe as well. Just ask Matt Krause, an American who is walking across the entire country.
http://www.gadling.com/2013/02/12/matt-krause-man-who-quit-his-job-to-walk-across-turkey/
Dave Seminara Mar 7th 2013 12:23PM
Right on! Turkey is a great place to visit. And most find it very safe as well. Just ask Matt Krause, an American who is walking across the entire country.
http://www.gadling.com/2013/02/12/matt-krause-man-who-quit-his-job-to-walk-across-turkey/
SAS Mar 7th 2013 6:33PM
This is a superb article and I very much appreciate the fact that an American woman in Turkey has taken the initiative to set the record straight on Turkey.
Mike Place Mar 7th 2013 6:31PM
I am an americian living in istanbul.
I find the point about Turkey not being in the Middle East a bit ridiculous. This is firstly not a misconception. Turkey is part of the Middle East. The Middle East is a region.
Next- The Middle East is not a bad place, as your article seems to indicate- What is the problem with being in the Middle East? Should a good place not want to be associated with those words? This article seems to tailor toward Americans with no sense of the world outside of their comfortable 50 states.
Maybe there should be a follow up (and arguably more important article) about misconceptions about the Middle East.
Meg Nesterov Mar 7th 2013 6:42PM
Thanks Mike, very good point about the Middle East not being a bad place. It certainly isn't, but I think many Americans attribute some of the more fundamentalist qualities of the Middle East to Turkey which isn't fair. Yes, you *can* call it part of the Middle East, but you can also call it part of Europe or Central Asia. Also, the majority of Turks that I know do not wish to be aligned with the Middle East. Not that there's anything wrong with that, as they say!
Orkhun Mar 9th 2013 10:26AM
Although Middle East isn't a bad place it self Turkey geographically an Eurasian country and it's region code is Europe (which means DVD Blue Ray and tech items like PCs and Gaming Consoles, Games are in European region)
Osman Oder Mar 9th 2013 12:57PM
This is a minor issue but I wanted to correct you on "Turkey is a part of the Middle East".
Actually only a part of Turkey is in the Middle East (the southeast part) but Turkey is not in a single region as a whole country.
Michelle Mar 9th 2013 10:25AM
I love Turkey!!! I visited Istanbul for the first time in May 2012. I had such a good time that I will be going back on the 21st of May. The people are the nicest, friendliest people that I have ever met during my travels. I am an African American woman and I have never gotten so much positive attention from both men and woman, while on vacation. My niece was treated like a princess, we couldn't walk down the street without someone giving her a little gift, or asking if they could take a picture with us. The landscape of Turkey is beautiful, it is also extremely clean and there is a sweet fragrance in the air. I never felt unsafe or in any danger..... It is truly one of the nicest places that I have ever visited....
Vickie Mar 9th 2013 10:26AM
Yes, Meg, Turkey is a great place.
Except for the fact that it is a major human rights violator. Except for the fact that it committed genocide against its indigenous Christian population of Assyrians, Armenians, and Greeks, denies it, and represses its few remaining Christians.
Turkey has more journalists in jail than any other country.
Turkey has violated the rights of its Kurds in so many ways for so long (recall the Dersim massacres) I really don't think we need to go into it.
Turkey has confiscated or destroyed thousands of ancient Armenian and other Christian churches and other cultural monuments. Turkey has renamed scores of villages that originally had Armenian names, in an attempt to further erase Armenians' existence.
By the way, Greeks, Armenians, Assyrians and Kurds lived on these lands long before Turks arrived from Central Asia as conquerors. Many people forget that.
For these and other reasons, Turkey should never be admitted into the European Union.
Aside from these and many other things, yes, Turkey is a nice place.
cjy Mar 9th 2013 10:28AM
Find me a country that has no darkness in it's history or current blemishes. The United States was founded via genocide of the indigenous population and got fat on the backs of an enslaved people. The story of human kind is riddled with atrocities. The best way to form a better understanding of other cultures is to travel and experience them. I think that is the point of the article.
Meg Nesterov Mar 9th 2013 10:42AM
I can't disagree with you Vickie about many of those unfortunate facts, but as CJY points out so well, every country has its darkness. This article was to dispel some untrue generalizations and stereotypes about Turkey, not to paint it as a utopia where nothing has ever gone wrong. If we kept every place with a questionable history off our travel list, we'd never go anywhere.
GaryG Mar 7th 2013 10:44PM
Great article. My family and I lived Izmir in the 1980s, loved every second of our stay there, made friendships that have lasted for decades, and cried when we left.
Two points:
1. Turkey is not considered a Middle Eastern country by the US State Department.
2. Although I did see camels in Izmir, they were not common and mostly a tourist attraction. I believe the association between camels and Turkey was created by the picture of a camel (as well as a pyramid!) and the words "Turkish and American Blend" on packages of Camel cigarettes.
David Mar 8th 2013 3:01AM
"Often, the women you might see on the streets in Istanbul wearing a full black hijab or burqa are Arab tourists, or immigrants from the East."
That could indeed "often" be the case in the tourist areas, but Taksim Square is not representative of the 5000 square kilometre city that is Istanbul. Step out of the tourist area and you'll see many women fully covered in black. They aren't tourists or "immigrants from the East".
Can Mar 9th 2013 11:54AM
Hi David. I see your point. And it is totally right. And here are some more information for other readers. I think the point here is that women are not obliged to be covered. And it is normal to wear miniskirts or low-cut tops. However one should note that there is a cultural limitation on that and it is advised to dress suitably. It is good to be not so revealing on the streets. But no one minds your dress in a fancy night club. But i have to admit that you don't have as much freedom as in the US about that matter.
Although Islam requires both men and women to cover theirselves, there is a debate on the level of that. Those women you see in the streets with turban choose to wear that by themselves(at least they are supposed to). A few decades earlier you would see those type of outfits much rarely. By the rise of the conservative party in Turkey, it increased rapidly in the past 10 years. And we as a country went 10 years back in the meaning of personal freedom. And currently we are having some big political problems about it.
It is who you are with that matters. As an individual I grew up in an intellectual enviroment and i value personal liberty. There are illeterate people in every country. The difference is in Turkey some of them are more likely to judge you by your clothes. And off course in poor regions there are more of those people(I am not making a discrimination, just stating a social fact. it is the way they think and I(we) must be respectful). But if you are in a university or working in a decent company, you are less likely to have a problem about that.
In conclusion women are not required to wear full black hijab or whatever. And they dress in a modern way. That is all someone with the intention of visiting Turkey needs to know in the first place. The rest are details.
Oz Mar 9th 2013 10:26AM
Hi,
The "camel" connection surely comes from the Camel cigarettes, which bear a camel figure and the "Turkish Blend" print on the pack.
Orkhun Mar 9th 2013 10:26AM
Great article about stereotyping and prejudice, Turkey is an Eurasian country not Middle Eastern if you want to be exact geographically, like Russia Turkey is a Secular Republic majority of population is accepted as Muslims different then other Muslim countries, also when you are at war people die from both sides and that doesn't become genocide, only true genocide was WW2 and against Jew don't even compare other things to what happened to Jews it is disrespectful, when you attack a nation or rebel against it and harm it's people you are either exiled or killed as normal stop blaming Turkey for your own mistakes and treachery which caused all those people die!
Orkhun Mar 9th 2013 10:27AM
About Camels in Turkey, they are actually associated with Ottoman Empire and with Camel cigarettes and there is a story behind it if you'd like to find out about it, history between Ottomans and America and Ottoman's help to America with Camels for America's war with Mexico, you can check it out on internet
myturkishjoys Mar 9th 2013 9:33AM
Thanks for the mention/link Meg! It was great to see you when you were back visiting in Istanbul. We certainly talked about this topic when we saw each other, and I still feel completely safe in Istanbul. It's important to just pay attention to your surroundings just like you would anywhere. Kudos to publishing this article!
Gloria Mar 9th 2013 2:35PM
Do some people actually think these things about Turkey? Who are these people? I have never heard a single one of these misconceptions before.
anthony Mar 10th 2013 8:21PM
Turkey is an awesome place to visit - I don't know anyone who has been there talk about it in a negative light. People are so friendly there, and the food is superb. I'd go back there any day. You should try talking to the carpet sellers in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul (see more at http://www.thetraveltart.com/buy-carpet/). It's a fun experience just talking to these guys. They want to sell you a carpet, but it's all in good nature!