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An Education In Mezcal
I inhale. The scent is earthy, smoky. I take a sip, rolling the liquid around my tongue, exploring its flavors. Per instruction, I gurgle. My mouth explodes, the alcohol transforming into a liquid fireball that burns the insides of my cheeks. It takes a few minutes before the sensation expires.
There is a saying: "para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien también."
For everything bad, mezcal, and for everything good too.
In Oaxaca, mezcal is as much a part of the landscape as the mountains, textiles and colonial architecture. Legend has it that a form of the tequila-like liquor existed prior to the Spanish conquest of Mexico, but mezcal as we know it was first distilled by the conquistadors in the 17th century. It is a generic name for spirits distilled from the agave plant, or maguey as it is traditionally called, of which there are 11 types. The state of Oaxaca is the traditional home of mezcal, and the countryside is littered with small family distilleries.
But not all mezcal is created equal. There is a difference between artisanal mezcal and the touristy stuff sold in bodegas across the city. I learned the difference at the Mezcaloteca, a tasting library run by a group dedicated to the preservation of traditional mezcal production.
It turns out, pure artisanal mezcal isn't brown – it's clear. And those larvae at the bottom of the bottle? Pure marketing, intended to bait unassuming tourists with the promise of a G-rated "Fear Factor" experience. ("I can't believe you actually ate the worm!" your friends back home will gape.)
No, the best artisanal mezcal is crystal clear and worm free. David, our bartender-cum-teacher, filled us in on some other ways to tell the difference.
- Look for the words "100% agave," which signifies that the liquor is pure and not mixed with cheaper additives.
- Make sure that the stated alcohol content is 45% or greater.
- Check the label for the state of origin, type of agave plant and name of the maestro mezcalero, or mezcal master.
- Shake the bottle and see if bubbles arise – they should, unless it is a mezcal with more than 55% alcohol content, in which case the bubbles only arise when you stir it.
- Do not buy mezcal that is reposado or anejado in barrels – the wood destroys the distinct flavors and aromas of the mezcal.
- Rub a drop of mezcal between your fingers to evaporate it – the scent should be of cooked agave.
Now for tasting the mezcal.
- Mezcal is traditionally consumed from a gourd or wide-mouthed cup.
- Pour the drink from one cup to another to see the bubbles rise.
- Inhale the mezcal. Try to find the aroma that you smelled when you rubbed the mezcal between your fingers. Then inhale with your mouth closed and try to discern other smells. You'll notice that there is a difference.
- Sip the mezcal and rinse your mouth for 10 seconds without swallowing. Exhale through your nose. Feel the flavors on your palate.
- Take another sip, rinse your mouth for 10 seconds, then swallow and feel the burn.
According to David, these flavors are the essence of mezcal.
The Mezcaloteca is located at Reforma 506 in central Oaxaca. Tastings are available by appointment only, though you may be able to piggyback onto another group's tasting if you swing by at the right time. Prices vary, but a basic four-pour tasting cost us 150 pesos (about US$12). Call +52-01-951-5140082 or email email@example.com for reservations.
[Photo Credit: Jessica Marati]