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The J. Paul Getty Museum In Los Angeles: The World's Best Free Museum?
I don't think I've ever had one of those delirious discovery moments at a museum though, until I visited the J. Paul Getty art museum in Los Angeles last week. I appreciate fine art and photography but before visiting the Getty I'd never really been to a museum that I didn't want to leave.
I was at the Getty, which opened in 1997, with my two little boys, ages 3 and 5, so we started our visit in the Family Room, where my sons made masks, drew, and lounged in a replica of a fancy 18th century French bed against the backdrop of replicas of some of the remarkable works of art we were about to experience. My boys insisted on wearing their masks all day and they left the Family Room in such a great mood that they happily let me wander the galleries and grounds for hours, feeling like little celebrities as loads of people stopped to compliment them on their masks.
The current headlining exhibition at the Getty is "Florence at the Dawn of the Renaissance," which focuses on art from the first half of the 14th Century and runs through February 10 (most of the same pieces will also be in Toronto at the Art Gallery of Ontario from March 16- June 16). It's an extraordinary collection of pieces from museums and churches around the world that's never been displayed in one place before.
The last time I was in Florence I was 24, and spent more time courting Scandinavian backpackers than soaking up the treasures at the Uffizi and other museums, so the icons, paintings, stained glass, manuscripts and medieval books were all new to me. As was their exhibit of the earliest illuminated copies of Dante's masterpiece "Divine Comedy."
I'd never even heard of featured artists like Giotto di Bondone, Bernardo (Who's Your) Daddi, and Pacino di Bonaguido before, but their works of art absolutely floored me. Seeing their ornate, colorful, majestic works of art, many of them created to honor their religious faith, and digesting the fact that they were created 700 years ago made me wonder if people in the year 2712 will be as moved by anything that's being created today the way I was by these works of art.
We also lingered over some remarkable black and white photos of Chicago and Philadelphia from the '60s, and really set up shop on the upper level of the West Wing, where we basked in the glory of the great impressionists and had a good laugh watching every member of a Chinese tour group dutifully pose for a photo in front of Van Gogh's "Irises," which the museum paid $53.9 million to acquire. Oddly enough, none seemed interested in another painting just steps away that I think is far more interesting: Paul Gauguin's painting "The Royal End," which depicts the severed head of a Polynesian man.
It was a glorious sunny day, and we spent time checking out the South Promontory, which is a re-creation of a desert landscape, and the Central Garden, which has a reflecting pool with a maze of 400 azalea plants, before repairing to the café, where we were in for another surprise: damn good food at reasonable prices.
As we sat at an outdoor table, and tucked into some truly outstanding chicken quesadillas, basking in the warm sun like lizards and enjoying the almost-alpine views of pine trees and green mountains in the distance, I felt the bittersweet sadness that comes at the end of any great trip. I thought about buying an expensive T-shirt or coffee table book to commemorate what had been an idyllic day but decided instead to simply let the experience linger in my memory.
The truth is that I don't just want to go back to the Getty some day – I want to live there amidst the art, the gardens, the vistas, and the wonderful cafeteria food. I don't think I could afford the parking and the place closes at 5:30 p.m. each day, but a guy can always dream.
Note: If you have a Garmin GPS, don't use it to find the museum, as it will get you lost in a residential neighborhood below the museum that won't get you to the Getty. Follow the directions on the museum website. And if you can't make it to L.A., check out the museum's YouTube channel to get a flavor of the place.
[Photo credits: Dave Seminara, SodanieChea on Flickr and the Getty Museum]