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Buffalo, New York: The Best Maligned Place
Every year around this time we return to Buffalo, our wonderful, maligned hometown like the swallows returning to San Juan Capistrano. Buffalo is a city of exiles and I'm one of them. Up to half the people who grow up in the region leave to pursue opportunities elsewhere, but we remain fiercely loyal to the place. The rest of the country assumes that the Queen City is an armpit and treats us as such, but that only makes us love the place even more.I've moved more than a dozen times since I left Buffalo for college at 17. I've traveled to more than 50 foreign countries and 40 U.S. States and have lived in five countries and seven states. But Buffalo is the only place that I return to at least once every year. My family keeps me coming back, but even if they skipped town, I'd still come back at least once a year. Why?
"It's really cold there, snows all the time doesn't it?" they'll say.
This kind of response makes sense if you're talking to someone from Arizona or Florida or California, but we get it from everyone. Chicago is my adopted hometown and it always astonishes me how Chicagoans, who endure long, miserable winters, somehow assume that Buffalo's weather must be worse. I try telling people that while Buffalo gets more snow, Chicago is colder but no one believes me.
People who are trying to be nice will mention our weather but will shift focus to our other claim to fame: chicken wings. (We just call them wings.)"Terrible weather but you've got good chicken wings, right?" they'll say.
Men will also make some reference to the fact that our beloved Buffalo Bills lost in the Super Bowl four times in a row or the fact that we now have the longest playoff appearance drought in the NFL.
There is only one place I've been in the world where people were impressed by the fact that I was from Buffalo and you would have a hard time finding this place on a map. It's a village in Sicily's rugged interior called Montemaggiore Belsito. My mom's family emigrated to Buffalo from this village and when I went there for a visit in 2005, everyone we met there knew about "Boo-fah-loh" and had a favorable impression of the place.
"Boo-fah-loh, that's a beautiful place," said a young man we met in a café. "My uncle owns Frank's Sunny Italy restaurant on Delaware Avenue."
I thought that this was a remarkable coincidence until we realized that everyone in the village had relatives in Boo-fah-loh, as they call it. But aside from Montemaggiore Belsito, Buffalo doesn't get much love. In the '80s we had a Buffalo's "Talkin' Proud" PR campaign (see video above) and before that we had "Boost Buffalo," which audaciously suggested that Buffalo was "ideal in every way" with a "wonderful climate" (see video above), but in recent years many of us Buffalo natives have given up trying to convince others that our city isn't so bad.
For years, I've tried to tell people that there is more to Buffalo than snow storms, failing sports teams and wings. Millard Fillmore, Grover Cleveland, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Tim Russert and Mark Twain lived in Buffalo at various times. Buffalo was the 9th largest city in America in 1900 and Delaware Avenue, one of the city's principles thoroughfares, once had more millionaires than any other street in America. Many of the city's architectural treasures are still intact; including six Frank Lloyd Wright designed structures.The city's population has been declining for decades but there's a flipside to that depressing trend too: very little traffic and no parking hassles. Buffalo has amazing restaurants, the terrific Albright-Knox Art Gallery, a lively bar scene, and the least pretentious city folk you'll find in the country. You can buy a nice house in Buffalo for the cost of a mediocre parking space in Manhattan.
The Frederick Law Olmsted designed Delaware Park is one of the finest urban parks in the country and Buffalo's Art Deco City Hall is a showstopper. We have Niagara Falls, the Niagara Wine Region, a bucolic Amish country and some good ski resorts right on our doorstep. But this is not a list of things to do in Buffalo, because the city's charms can't be visited and ticked off like a shopping list.
If you haven't spent time in Buffalo with a local as your tour guide, you probably won't get it. A guidebook won't help you. You'll drive around in a fog and wonder what the hell to do with your time. You have to go with a local to Ralph Wilson Stadium for a Bills game in December. Sit in the end zone and share a gulp of whisky from your neighbor's flask. Go ahead and hug some complete strangers when the Bills score – if the Bills score.
Go to a Tim Horton's for donuts and coffee on a Monday morning and ask the guy at the table next to you how badly he thinks the refs screwed the Bills the day before. (We always get shafted, or at least think we did.)Go to Gabriel's Gate in Allentown, sit at the bar, order some wings and share a basket of popcorn and some conversation with the person sitting next to you. Break bread with us. Stay out until 4 a.m. with us at the bars. Commiserate with us about our sports teams. Ask us about our weather if you must. Help us push our cars out of a snowdrift. Spend some time here and you will like it. I swear. But if you don't come, that's OK too, because we don't mind keeping Buffalo's charms a secret.
[Photo credits: Elif Ayse, Yurilong, Jason Paris, and DMealiffe on Flickr]
Filed under: Arts and Culture, History, Photos, Stories, North America, United States












Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Buffalopundit Nov 24th 2012 7:50AM
Thanks for this. Buffalo has its problems, but it has its overwhelming charms, as well. It is one of the ideal places to raise a family and to live a comfortable life at a slower pace. All of what you say is true, but you omit one thing. When we need big-city stuff, Toronto is a mere 1.5 hour jaunt up the QEW. That, for me, is a huge selling point and something of an escape valve from the aforementioned problems.
Dave Seminara Nov 24th 2012 10:14PM
Very good point, pundit. I love Toronto. But they look down on us up there too. Not that I give a damn....
John Howell Nov 24th 2012 10:11AM
Dave, this is great. Here's something else about Buffalo you may not know. Check out what our company is doing to leverage the things you celebrate to attract startups to Buffalo. http://nxtarrow.com
Becky Howell Dec 5th 2012 11:05PM
The unique and priceless jeweled treasures of Buffalo remain. The unified efforts to revitalize and restore the City to the prominence it once enjoyed and so richly deserves can become best understood by the culture of loyalty, devotion to efforts of citizens/agencies/enterprises to attract new business' to the City. The values, pride, hard work, love of residents, friends of the City. It may take time, it will take commitment, and depend a great deal on an improved economy. Best wishes with the work you're doing both to provide positive environments for up-start business, est. business, and relocation of business. Wishing you a new year of great success. http://nxtarrow.com
Cynthia Van Ness Nov 24th 2012 10:08PM
In the popular imagination, it will always and forever be January 1977 in Buffalo, a twilight zone where, starting at the city line, there is only one season instead of four and permanent snowdrifts stand ten feet high.
I am here to tell you that you can retire the "harsh winter" stereotypes along with everything else you thought you knew about Buffalo. Mother Nature, with a hefty assist from climate change, is now dumping Buffalo's winters on everyone else. We have rosebushes blooming in December, cafes with tables and chairs out in January, winter festivals canceled due to lack of snow in February, and 80F days in March. These are real-life events that have occurred over the last decade. I am increasingly able to bike to work year-round on dry pavement.
Oh, and New York, Philadelphia, Washington, and Boston? Really sorry about all that snow.
More about Buffalo's weather here:
http://www.buffaloresearch.com/snow.html
Dave Seminara Nov 24th 2012 10:18PM
Very true, Cynthia. I love the site you link to. But it seems to indicate that the 1940s was the least snowiest decade in terms of annual snowfall. Is that right?
Larry Penna Nov 25th 2012 10:16AM
" LET'S GO BUFFALO " !!....
banjowoody Nov 25th 2012 12:18PM
and lets not forget the suicide that jumped from a building that had flag poles in its court yard and he speared himself midsection, what a halloween it was at" Patrick Henry's" that year...
Tom Larsen Nov 26th 2012 4:30PM
You really left out a HUGE part of loving Buffalo - it's 20 minutes to get anywhere! Little to no traffic jams, easy to drive and anytime you ask someone how long to get there, what's the answer? 20 minutes.
Dave Seminara Nov 26th 2012 4:27PM
Good point, Tom. I did sort of address it in the story but not as well as you did.
"The city's population has been declining for decades but there's a flipside to that depressing trend too: very little traffic and no parking hassles."
Pamiss45 Nov 27th 2012 9:29AM
Buffalo has always been part of the vocabulary in my family as my Dad was born there in 1913. His father worked for the railroad. My Dad was the last of the six boys and my Dad loved Buffalo. It has quite a history - the head of the Iroquois Nation was a woman who lived down the street from my Dad. Their schools must have taught well as 3 of the boys went on to college. Yes, I grew up hearing about the snow from my Dad "you don't want to walk to school in a foot of snow? I walked in 4 feet of snow"...LOL. I finally got to see Buffalo in 1989 with my husband - but like you said we needed a local/native to really see Buffalo.
Mike Marmo Nov 29th 2012 9:08AM
"We have Niagara Falls, the Niagara Wine Region, a bucolic Amish country and some good ski resorts right on our doorstep."
You used the wrong adjective when describing one of those things. We have some *bad* ski resorts right on our doorsteps. I traveled outside of WNY for winter sports for the first time last season, and was shocked to discover how utterly terrible our ski resorts are compared to other places. It is amazing what a difference proper grooming makes, and that doesn't happen at either of the 2 major resorts (holiday and kissing bridge). Holimont does have fantastically groomed snow, but you need ~$13,000\year just to get in the front door.
Dave Seminara Nov 29th 2012 11:43AM
Hi Mike. It's all a matter of perspective. Our ski resorts aren't like Beaver Creek or Killington but I've also lived in Chicago and Washington, DC and I think they're much better than what you can find within 1 hour of those places.
Michael Nov 29th 2012 12:26PM
I can understand and appreciate that they are close, but because this is a problem that can easily be fixed, I find it unacceptable. Holiday Valley is drowning in money and it is relatively tiny compared to resorts on the east/west coasts that manage to keep their slopes properly groomed all season. But these conditions only exist because us locals allow it to, and it is disappointing IMO. We vote with our wallets and people keep giving them money because there are few alternatives. They have no incentive to improve unless it hurts their business. And for this reason I did not purchase a season pass this year, and will instead travel to Vermont a half dozen times.
Dan Dec 5th 2012 4:30PM
I grew up there and I left in 1994. Can't say I ever looked back or miss it even a little. When I have to go back it's begrudgingly to say the least. It is a part of me that's undeniable though. Go Bills from the mountains the West.
Peter Burakowski Dec 14th 2012 4:02PM
Thanks for writing this piece, Dave. A few things that I'd add:
Buffalo's waterfront is experiencing a rebirth with the $295 million development of the city's Canalside district and outer harbor.
Buffalo is home to some 400 independently owned restaurants, ranging from wing joints to haute cuisine, and new immigrants to Buffalo are bringing exciting new foods, from Eithiopian to Burmese to Iraqi.
In addition to Buffalo's presidential connections, our history includes the Erie Canal, Underground Railroad and the Civil Rights Movement.
For more, check out www.visitbuffaloniagara.com.