[read earlier parts of "In Bali With Baggage" here]

Perhaps it is some fluke of Balinese grammar. Perhaps the words for "lonely" and "alone" are the same. But the hotel staff keeps asking me, "traveling lonely?" and I say, "Yes."

"No friends?" they continue, just to make sure.

"No," I say, feeling my nose being rubbed in it. "No friends."

In my short time here, I've already learned that the Balinese are really sweet. Despite the surge in tourism – often a loud, drinky, druggy kind of tourism – they've retained their basic niceness. But if this wasn't the case, why, I'd think they were sticking it to me.

"Oh no," they say, making a frowny face. "You are traveling lonely, Mr. Jonathan."

That's another thing. They call me "Mr. Jonathan." Respectfully, like I own a schmata factory. Like I'm Mr. T's brother.

I walk out of the hotel and onto the street. The sun is bright, the air warm, and I am filled with nausea. Not the hangover kind but the French Existential kind. As always, on my first day of travel, I can't help thinking of the city I come from, Montreal, empty of me and it makes me feel dead there. Because in the streets and buildings of Montreal, I no longer exist.

On the sidewalks are freshly laid out offerings. They are called Canang Sari and everyone seems to make them. While most of Indonesia is Muslim, Bali is predominantly Hindu, and offerings are made three times a day. The ones I see are made up of little baskets filled with rice, crackers, flowers and even cigarettes. It is later explained to me that these offerings are made in thanks, in celebration, of life's abundance – as opposed to being made in fear like, say, Jessica Lang being turned over to an adenoidal ape in "King Kong." Later in the day, I will see these offerings run through with tire tracks and flattened by people's feet. And in the days to come, I will even see these sacrificial flowers clogging bar room bathroom sinks. (Another neat thing about Bali are the bathroom surprises. I've already seen multi-colored urinal stones and above them, at eye level, aquariums.) But right now, the sacrifices are bright like children's book drawings.

Filed under: Stories, Asia, Indonesia