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Damnation Creek: Hiking Old-Growth To Ocean In Redwood National Park
T
here are few places on earth I love more than Redwoods National Park, located 325 miles north of San Francisco. Growing up, we used to drive up the coast every summer, and a few nights camping in the redwoods was always on the itinerary.
The Redwoods are actually several parks within the national and state system, all of which are managed cooperatively by the National Park Service and California Department of Parks and Recreation. Together, they comprise nearly half of the remaining old-growth redwood forest in the state.
Last month, while driving down the coast from Seattle to San Francisco, I decided I was long overdue to sleep amongst the world's tallest trees. I booked a site at Mill Creek Campground in Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, just south of the dreary fishing port of Crescent City.
When I camp, I want to stay in a place that smells of wood smoke, and has sites covered in moss and ferns. I desire a forest canopy overhead, ranger talks, trailheads and wildlife lurking in the undergrowth. I do not want to see functioning cellphones, tour bus-sized RVs or swimming pools. I may be in a campground instead of the backcountry, but I have my standards.
Mill Creek, as well as Jedidiah Smith Campground (located 10 miles east of Crescent City, in Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park), both meet my criteria. I've stayed at the Smith campground in the past, and at either place, I'd be perfectly content to sit on a stump all day, inhaling the scent of burning wood and watching the banana slugs go by.
That said, I camp so I can hike, which is why I was thrilled to discover one of the Redwood's best trails – one of only a few with old-growth forest-to-beach access – just down the road from Mill Creek. Damnation Creek was originally used by the region's Yurok Indians, who went to the beach to collect shellfish and seaweed.
The trail drops 1,100 feet in two miles, switchbacking through Sitka spruce, Douglas fir, ferns, and huckleberries. It's a steep drop, but utterly breathtaking due to the cathedral-like shroud of ancient redwoods that tower over everything. Damnation Creek runs near the bottom of the trail, just before you emerge onto a bluff overlooking the sea stacks of the Pacific. If the tide is out, you can walk down to a patch of rocky beach overlooking Damnation Cove. Take a deep breath. Realize cellphones and civilization are overrated. Linger. It's a steep hike back.
Getting there
Located eight miles south on Highway 101 from Crescent City; the Damnation Creek Trailhead and pullout is at mile marker 16, on your right. Don't leave any valuables in your car.
[Photo credit: redwoods, Flickr user goingslo]
here are few places on earth I love more than Redwoods National Park, located 325 miles north of San Francisco. Growing up, we used to drive up the coast every summer, and a few nights camping in the redwoods was always on the itinerary.The Redwoods are actually several parks within the national and state system, all of which are managed cooperatively by the National Park Service and California Department of Parks and Recreation. Together, they comprise nearly half of the remaining old-growth redwood forest in the state.
Last month, while driving down the coast from Seattle to San Francisco, I decided I was long overdue to sleep amongst the world's tallest trees. I booked a site at Mill Creek Campground in Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, just south of the dreary fishing port of Crescent City.
When I camp, I want to stay in a place that smells of wood smoke, and has sites covered in moss and ferns. I desire a forest canopy overhead, ranger talks, trailheads and wildlife lurking in the undergrowth. I do not want to see functioning cellphones, tour bus-sized RVs or swimming pools. I may be in a campground instead of the backcountry, but I have my standards.
Mill Creek, as well as Jedidiah Smith Campground (located 10 miles east of Crescent City, in Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park), both meet my criteria. I've stayed at the Smith campground in the past, and at either place, I'd be perfectly content to sit on a stump all day, inhaling the scent of burning wood and watching the banana slugs go by.
That said, I camp so I can hike, which is why I was thrilled to discover one of the Redwood's best trails – one of only a few with old-growth forest-to-beach access – just down the road from Mill Creek. Damnation Creek was originally used by the region's Yurok Indians, who went to the beach to collect shellfish and seaweed.
The trail drops 1,100 feet in two miles, switchbacking through Sitka spruce, Douglas fir, ferns, and huckleberries. It's a steep drop, but utterly breathtaking due to the cathedral-like shroud of ancient redwoods that tower over everything. Damnation Creek runs near the bottom of the trail, just before you emerge onto a bluff overlooking the sea stacks of the Pacific. If the tide is out, you can walk down to a patch of rocky beach overlooking Damnation Cove. Take a deep breath. Realize cellphones and civilization are overrated. Linger. It's a steep hike back.
Getting there
Located eight miles south on Highway 101 from Crescent City; the Damnation Creek Trailhead and pullout is at mile marker 16, on your right. Don't leave any valuables in your car.
[Photo credit: redwoods, Flickr user goingslo]
Filed under: Hiking, History, Learning, North America, United States, Camping, Ecotourism, Budget Travel
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Curt Feldman Sep 18th 2012 1:15AM
Thanks for the write-up Laurel. As a resident and business owner in nearby Hiouchi (I'm a short drive from the Jed Smith campground, at bnb-Hiouchi...just google me for info), you do well to call out Damnation Creek Trail as one of the finest hikes among old growth redwoods. Next time you are in the area try the Boy Scout Trail. Located close to Stout Grove, Boy Scout takes hikers through a more dense grove of old growth redwoods, ending not at the Pacific Ocean but at the beautiful and contemplative Fern Falls. And there's no sound of cars on the trail (something hikers must contend with during the beginning stretch of Damnation Creek). Both trails are local favorites and provide immediate gratification to folks anxious to see the tallest of the remaining redwoods. Thanks again Laurel and hope to see you back among the Redwoods soon! _Curt
Laurel Sep 17th 2012 11:08AM
Thanks, Curt, for the recommendation. I actually read about the Boy Scout Trail and was torn between the two: It sounds like an amazing hike. The Redwoods truly are a national treasure, and I hope comments like yours further encourage readers to visit.
All the best,
Laurel