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The Price Of Wine Is Too Damn High
If you were given a blind taste test, could you tell the difference between a $10 bottle of wine and a $20 bottle or even a $50 bottle? Last year, I listened to a Freakonomics podcast, in which Steve Levitt set out to determine if his friends and colleagues could tell the difference between good wine and swill and the results of the experiment confirmed what I've always suspected about many wine snobs: they're full of crap.Leavitt held a dinner party and invited fellow wine enthusiasts to taste a variety of wines without letting them see the labels. But he threw them a curveball by telling them that inexpensive wines were $50 bottles, and, predictably, everyone in the group scored the bogus $50 wines higher than the authentically pricey ones, which Leavitt introduced as cheap or mid-price range.
In the podcast, the authors also cite Robin Goldstein, who published a study detailing research from 6,000 blind wine tests that concluded that when people don't know the price of the wine, they do not derive any additional enjoyment from expensive wines compared to cheaper ones. So while many people need to know they're drinking an expensive wine to enjoy it, I'm the opposite – I really enjoy a wine if I get a good deal on it.
In Praise of Cheap Wine
In Palma de Mallorca, I had a very nice glass of Spanish wine, with a generous pour, at the Bar Major (see right) in an indoor market for all of 1€. At the Osteria Da Anguilinu, a very nice little restaurant in Lecce, Italy, a quarter liter of the house wine also costs, you guessed it, 1€ (See video below). In the south of France, you can walk into a supermarket and fill your own jug with table wine for, again, 1€. And on the Greek island of Samos, we bought some delicious bottles of sweet local wine from a vintner named Manolis, right off the back of his truck for 4€ and were later told that we got ripped off. (See video below)In Italy and Greece, even if you're eating on a beach or in another place with a great view, you can still usually order an inexpensive carafe of table wine. And to be clear, when I refer to cheap wine here, I'm talking about drinkable stuff, not the jug wine you see alcoholics throwing back in bus terminals and alleyways.
But here in the good old U.S.A., glasses and bottles of wine cost a pretty penny. Even at Noodles & Company, a fast food joint, a glass of mediocre wine will cost you nearly $6 with tax. Why?
I think the primary reason is that wine isn't the deeply ingrained part of our culture that it is in European countries, where babies practically guzzle the stuff from their bottles. Here, wine is still associated with the Grey Poupon country club set, but on the other side of the pond, everyone drinks it, no matter whether they clean sewers or run a multinational company.
U.S. business owners also tend to price their food reasonably to try to entice customers while hoping to make a larger profit margin off the drinks. When customers peruse a restaurant's menu, either in person or online, they tend to formulate an opinion on how pricey it is based on the food prices, even though the drinks can cost nearly as much.
Also, we don't consume the same volume of wine that Europeans do, so there is no volume discount. According to the Wine Institute, Americans drink just 9.4 liters of wine per capita annually, compared to 45.7 liters in France, 42.1 in Italy and 27 liters in Greece. Interestingly enough, those party animals in the Vatican top the chart with a whopping 54 liters consumed per person per year.
The same volume discount concept applies to beer in beer-drinking countries. In most parts of Germany, you can buy a half-liter mug of great beer for about €3-4, because bars assume you'll be drinking several of them. So if we want cheaper wine and beer, we apparently need to drink much more of both.
Perhaps we need a political candidate to draw attention to this problem in the same way Jimmy McMillan did with his The Rent is Too Damn High Party candidacies for governor and senator in New York State. I don't see a The Wine Is Too Damn Expensive party candidate getting into the White House anytime soon, but it can't hurt.
Of course, there are other items that are very cheap here and ridiculously expensive in Europe, like car rentals and the price of gas, for example. Given the choice between cheap alcohol and cheap gas, I would be hard pressed to pick between the two. How about you?
(First image by Roger Salz on Flickr, second image and videos by Dave Seminara)
Filed under: Europe, North America, Greece, Italy, Spain, United States











Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Vicky Jul 31st 2012 2:42PM
I definitely agree with this. I used to sub edit a food and wine magazine and the amount of cr*p the 'wine connoisseurs' came out with was unbelievable. I swear they just learnt stock phrases from Eton College lessons, or something.
Michael Jul 31st 2012 3:01PM
Personally, I'd gladly exchange the unlimited free refills on soft drinks which are considered mandatory here in the USA for the common availability of a decent $2 glass of wine.
Tom Phelan Jul 31st 2012 10:18PM
Do you think the "Emperor's Cloak" dynamic also applies to a $800 Coach Purse or
Rolex watch or $120 pre-washed, torn at the knees Jeans?
Milt Gersh Aug 2nd 2012 1:35PM
Hi, U couldn't be more right. People forget , it still is only grapes. Thanks
shezcrafti Aug 1st 2012 9:52AM
Nope, and this is exactly why I'm perfectly happy with grocery store varieties like Arbor Mist and Franzia, or if I really want to get fancy, some $20/bottle merlot or pinot from my local vineyard. Tastes good, gets me buzzed just the same AND it's cheap.