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Moscow On The Hudson: The Pains Of Getting A Russian Visa
Standing in front of the bus door at Sheretmetyevo airport in Moscow, I steepled my hands at a young woman and begged her to pay my bus fare. I had no rubles and was dangerously close to missing my connecting flight to Minsk. There was supposed to be a free Aeroflot shuttle but it never materialized. This city bus was my only chance of getting to the next terminal. Based on what cab drivers wanted to take me there – $50 – the terminal was in Siberia, or so it seemed.It was my first time in Russia and it was not a good start. But it was hard enough just getting here. After an intriguing piece about the troubles of getting a Russian visa at the embassy in Washington, D.C., was recently published in the Washington Post travel section, it made me consider my own pursuit to get one. My experience wasn't as bad as writer Ayako Doi's. But for me, having gone through various visa applications a dozen or so times, this was by far the worst.
It was an ominous sign that seconds after hitting "purchase" on the Aeroflot website for a JFK-Moscow-Minsk flight, a big red warning appeared on my laptop screen informing me my credit card had been declined. When I called the bank, they said they just automatically decline relatively large purchases made to Russian companies.
When I called Aeroflot to rebook, Dmitri, the amiable representative on the other end of the line, informed me that I'd needed a transit visa. I was going to have to apply for and buy a $131 visa just to change planes in Moscow on my way to Minsk, the capital of Belarus.
I double-checked on the Russian embassy's website, which said I did not need a transit visa. So I counter-checked on the website of the New York-based Russian consulate's website. It said I did need a transit visa. I rang the embassy but it was impossible to get a human. I called the consulate and got the same result. The ghost of Kafka, I thought, is residing in Russia – or at least at their embassies abroad. I could have chanced it and gone without one. But fearing I'd show up at the passport control at the airport in Moscow and be turned back because my passport lacked a transit visa, I decided the safe thing to do would be to point myself to the Russian consulate on New York's Upper East Side.
When I turned up at the consulate E. 91st St., it looked a teamsters meeting – or something one might really see in Russia. Thick-necked guys in flat caps and drab clothing scattered around the steps to the consulate door while pickled rotund men and ancient babushka-clad women, their bodies as stout as a beer can, mingled in line. The front door was postered in signs, all of which were written in Cyrillic. Everyone but me, it appeared, was a native Russian speaker. Well, everyone but me and the woman who got out of a black town car and walked up to the front of the door. When I started talking to her a little later on, I learned she was supermodel and famed tantrum thrower Naomi Campbell's assistant. I scanned her from head to toe and then head again looking for cellphone-shaped bruises. There weren't any – at least none that were visible.
But before I could ask about Ms. Campbell's upcoming trip to Russia, there was rumbling behind the door of the consulate. The crowd of 75 or so people went silent for a second. As the door swung open, what had been a line became a mob of people. Everyone rushed the door. Holding pieces of paper above their heads and screaming in Russian, the cacophonous crowd was rollicking, demanding the man at the door let them in. He randomly pulled people out of the crowd – those yelling the loudest, it seemed – and I, the non-Russian, stood back on the sidewalk, watching it from afar and thinking I was never going to get in there.
It was really Moscow on the Hudson. Embassies and consulates do have a way of becoming microcosms of the countries they represent. The Americans, I've been told, like to sit visa applicants down and have a little chat with them about why they want to visit America. A lot of people leave the embassy with a bad taste in their mouths, I've been told. Both the Vietnamese and Belorussian consulates in New York are very Spartan. In the latter, there was just a skinny old man hen-pecking on an old typewriter. Of course, there are services you can pay for that will ease the headache. But that's not always an easy solution. At first to get my visa for Myanmar, I paid $95 to CIBT. Only to find out – after they submitted my passport to the embassy in Washington, D.C. – that residing in New York was "out of [their] jurisdiction." They refused to refund me the money. Even after I complained and complained.
One of the purposes of a country installing a visa requirement is to evaluate who is coming into their country. Another is totally political (see the fight between the USA and Brazil). And yet another is to make money. I'm not sure what Russia's motivations for insisting Americans and citizens of other countries attain a visa (or even a transit visa) but it would probably inspire a lot more travel (and money spending) if they could somehow make it less disorganized.
A couple hours after the doors of the Russian consulate in New York finally opened, and after pushing and shoving and some elbowing, I got inside. It took approximately 97 seconds for me to hand over my application and passport.
I did barely make my flight to Minsk. On the way back I sucked it up and paid $20 for a cab to the next terminal. I had so much time that I was able to relax for a couple hours. I ate a salad at a restaurant – my first vegetables in a week and a half – and paid for it with my debit card. By the time I got back home to New York, my bank account had been cleaned out by some savvy Russian hacker.
A week after returning from the trip, I submitted my expenses to the magazine. My editor emailed the next day to say that, after doing some research, I didn't, after all, need a transit visa.
Well, at least next time I have to go to Russia, which I hope won't be when I have a lot of money in my bank to siphon out (likely I won't; I'm a travel writer), I'll now know what to expect.
What's your worst visa-applying experience?
Filed under: Europe, North America, Russian Federation, United States, Airlines












Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
crabbo Jul 20th 2012 2:38PM
you do not fly into russia,,you take the train from germany...it is a lot simpler and cheaper....fly to berlin take a taxi to the train station,,buy a ticket to whatever city you want to go to,,,have your passport ready...and there you go....but...if you have all the clothes you own and your toaster you won't have a good time at the customs counter....take the mi nimum you need,,and buy what you run out of...i really do not know who wrote this article,,but russians don't trust ANYBODY,,especially any one who flies in from the usa,,,they don't like germans either,,,in fact they don't like other russians either,,,,go figure !!!!
Tigershark Jul 20th 2012 3:37PM
Babushka is russian for grandmother not what was referred to in the text.
Barbara Henrichsen Jul 20th 2012 10:10PM
It's both.
ba·bush·ka/bəˈbo͝oSHkə/
Noun:
(in Poland and Russia) An old woman or grandmother.
A headscarf tied under the chin.
Synonyms:
kerchief - granny
lhs Jul 20th 2012 3:49PM
I too went to the Russian Consulate on 91st street to get visas for myself and my nephew. We were going on a trip to St Petersburg flying via Amsterdam. I had all the required paperwork. As my nephew was a minor that included much additional work. I took one look at the zoo you describe outside and went to a Russian Visa Service. And, it was a good thing too that I picked a Russian Service. I paid them the Visa fee and their service fee. They said to come back in a week. I returned a week later and they had my visa but not my nephew's.First they said that the consulate wanted to interview him. I responded that he was 13 and away at camp and that his parents were in Europe. They already had a copy of the parent's passports and birth certificates but I suspect they lost them. Then I got the real reason. He had a Jewish last name and they wanted to make sure he was not a refusnik. I assured them that he was third generation American. Finally the owner of the service called the consulate and spoke in Russian for twenty minutes to the Consulate General. After he got off the phone he told me to come back the next day to get the Visa. I will never go through that again. Anti=Semitism is alive and wellin Russia!
joe Jul 23rd 2012 3:33PM
The American government needs to get a clue from Russia and stop letting all these illegals into this country. You have to have a Visa to stay in Russia. That is how it should be here. Most people here are too stupid to see what a mess our government is making and allowing to happen.
Plainer Jul 20th 2012 7:29PM
You have to be on guard when you travel to Russia based on this interesting story, I see. I had a friend several years ago who planned to drive to Moscow from Belgium. A lot of redtape including gas cupons had to be purchased in advance. He was asked if he wanted regular or super-octane gas. Of course to be on the safe side, he selected super-octane. So with a bunch of super-octane gas cupons he set out for Moscow only to discover that the gas stations along the way in Russia were out of super-octane gas. They wouldn't accept his gas cupons to buy regular gas so he had to fork over his rubles to and from Moscow for the regular gas he bought. This occurred about 15 years ago so the situation may have changed today. If I were to travel to Russia I would definitely travel with a tour group.
Barbara Barnett Jul 20th 2012 9:50PM
Never, ever, go through official Russian channels for a visa. I did not know this on my first trip, and the process was a debacle which ended with the forced payment of a bribe to get my visa officially stamped within the requisite three days. On subsequent trips I've used "Go to Russia" travel in Washington DC - service is quick and you can pay in advance for their Russian offices to stamp the visa.
John Jul 21st 2012 8:01AM
Indeed Barbara - I was clueless about how much to offer. I did finally understand, after much consternation, (and useless jabber back and forth) a "bribe" was required. I knew a bit of Czech - but not enough of the "hard Russian" to get by so my friend had to speak with them. I put out Rubles and Dollars and Euro's fanned out in my hand. He took a selection and we got what we needed. When I found out it was over $200 total I almost hadda heart attack! Now I always travel with conversion tables I can take out - and I make sure they see them. (I'm not so good with doing conversions on the fly in my head - sorry to say) Even so, I should've known anyone wanting a bribe wasn't the most honest man on the street. This was years ago - but I'm sure cracking down on bribery and allowing "free" unfettered travel through Russia is not foremost on Putin's wish list. They still wore their rifles out across their shoulders, so I guess we got off easy. Anything for dollars or Euro's I guess!
BTW: In Italy prior to the Euro - I took out my conversion card, but the cab driver only took his fee not seeing what I had in my hand - I thanked him with a 50% tip for his honesty. (I'd studied Spanish, but not Italian - so he could've ripped me off good - even another Romance Language isn't totally translatable! So I was glad I'd gotten him. He gave me his card w/phone# and I used him for all my other travels while in Milan. I bought sweets for his 5 kids - whom I'd met - and he brought all my packages to my room for me which he didn't have to do - but I guess he knew by then I was a soft-touch! Thank goodness he knew more Spanish than I knew Italian!)
nick Jul 21st 2012 8:28PM
oh god.....it was horrible.
2 year ago we took the trip to moscow. when to get our visa at their office in manhattan was a nightmare. there was no line, people were yelling and about 60-80 people were blocking the entrance so no one can't get in. standing there for 4 hours and getting no where. i call my visa guy, pay $260 and got everything in about two week.
the flight was fine(air flat). it took almost 4 hours from the airport to hotel near red sq. everything there is sooooo expensive and i live in new york.
same story coming back. spent a lot of time in the traffic because their air train was book for the whole summer.(how can a air train be full for whole summer?)
waiting to check in at the airport is another nightmare.
nicole Jul 21st 2012 9:57AM
Went to Russia in 2009 and did not experience any problem. The trick: go through a special agency to get your visa. Fill out the paperwork and wait for you visa. Simple and not so expensive (around $100.00 if I recall). Saves you a lot of time, hassle and stress. Same for C hina.
whiskers Jul 23rd 2012 4:36PM
You, guys, don't know how to deal with the completely ridiculous Russian queues.
You have to come 1-1.5 hours before the place (say, the consulate) opens and reserve your spot in line. You assign yourself a number, basically. If for any reason you have to leave, you generally won't lose your place in line if you tell 2-3 people in front of you/behind you that you are going to come back and to have them hold your place in line. This sounds weird and I could never understand that. When the place opens, you have to rush in to make sure nobody cuts in front of you and the queue order is conserved - use your elbows but don't get in a fight!
If this doesn't deter you from going to Russia, the visa application fees may - $600 for a 3-day visa, ~300 for the regular 2-week tourist visa. Ukraine, on the other hand, does not require a visa from the USA. Then again, not many US citizens are interested in going to Ukraine (although you may have been better off flying into Kiev and then taking a train/bus into Belarus). Nothing but bad experiences with government/customs workers in Russia on this side; dealing with Ukrainian officials was downright pleasant, although I was there for only a day.
With that said, things have gotten much better at the Manhattan consulate. Yes, they were much, much worse. First, they now have two separate lines - one for those with visa/passport problems, second for the unruly retiree crowd receiving their pensions (you may have ended up in that crowd by mistake, and boy, are they used to the queues of the Soviet Union). Second, the consulate actually - gasp - schedules and keeps appointments instead of just letting everyone storm the place. And the people inside are relatively nice as opposed to the bitter taste of the Soviet Union service you used to get before where everyone looked at you like you ate their lunch. This is based on experience this past winter and experience of 4-5 years ago.
Also, never fly Aeroflot. If the plane doesn't crash, the best you'll get out of the flight will be terrible service.