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Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
6-26-2012 @ 6:10PM
Paul Hellander said...
As Jean mentioned, it was a later Lonely Planet author that passed by Anogeia and that was me (in around 200)! Yes, my wife (Stella) and I did happen upon a wedding, did meet some very important people in the Cretan music scene, did attend the cultural Yakynthia Festival that took place in Anogeia that year, did interview renowned musician Vasilis Skoulas for the then upcoming second edition of LP's Crete guide and generally had a very genuine Cretan time. It helped that we both spoke Greek and knew how to get under the skin of a people who are - and I admit it - rather resilient to outsiders. With the passage of time I can honestly say that for Stella and me our time in Anogeia and on the surrounding mountain plains remains still one of the highlights of Crete. I grant that for an outsider to drop in and expect the magic to happen, it is a tall order: this is not ready-made Disney-culture; it has a to sought out and earned. Anogeia needs another mindset and if you've gone running from the boozy, Anglo-fixated rat traps of the North coast expecting instant Cretan karma, it ain't gonna happen overnight. My sympathy to the author Dave Seminara, but when it comes to real Cretan culture, you won't find it skin deep and it won't be waiting for you simply because you made the effort to drive there. The real task begins on arrival. Give it another go, Dave. If you want to find a chink in the armour try talking to Vasilis Skoulas at the Delina reception Centre outside of Anogeia (do you speak Greek?). Ask him to invite you to a wedding - a real Cretan wedding with nary a foreigner in sight. Ask him to take you to a midnight lamb BBQ at a Mitato (traditional stone shepherd hut) on the flanks of Psiloritis where Homeric is not an underused adjective to describe the magic that will ensue. Be patient. Anogeia will enter under your skin ... slowly.