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The Problem With Guidebooks, Or How I Came to Hate Lonely Planet On A Sunday in Crete
Have you ever been so annoyed with a guidebook that you wanted to track down the author and bludgeon them to death with a rusty hatchet? Neither have I, but yesterday I came close.I almost always invest in a guidebook when I take a trip. But I'm not sure why, because I've been led astray on so many occasions. After arriving in the Greek isles at the start of a six-week trip, my wife and I bought the Kindle edition of the Lonely Planet Guide to the Greek Islands.
I'm generally very high on Lonely Planet but this book is awful. For example, yesterday I convinced my family to make a day trip to Anogia, a remote village in the mountainous interior of Crete, on the basis of an enticing description of the place in the book (see photo above). The author described the village as "memorable" and "known for its rebellious spirit and determination to express its undiluted Cretan character." (Whatever that means.)
I was also drawn in by the author's vivid description of the town's reputation for lawlessness and its history – villagers sheltered Allied troops in WWII and the Nazis murdered all the men in the town in retaliation. I knew it would be a trek from our base in Plakias, on Crete's south coast, but based upon the author's recommendation, I didn't want to miss the place.
Google maps claims the trip should take one hour and 27 minutes each way, and I'm a fast driver, but it took us two hours on windy, torturously circuitous roads to reach the village, largely because we were constantly getting caught behind slow moving cars and trucks that were impossible to pass on the curved roads.
Here I have to admit, in full disclosure, that my adorable, yet sometimes highly annoying, 2- and 4-year-old sons also contributed plenty of stress on the drive, what with their quarreling, whining and intermittent demands for snacks, movies, entertainment and pleas to get out of the damn car.
I was exhausted by the time we arrived in the town, which, by the way, is at least an hour drive from anywhere that travelers might be coming from. But I was still ready to dig the place. The day trip had been my idea and I was eager to prove it had been a good one.
Anogia has two sections – a lower town, which has 2-3 cafes, a church, restaurants and 20 or 30 widows dressed in black aggressively peddling rugs, and an upper town, which has 2-3 empty hotels, two forlorn restaurants and a smattering of homes and other businesses. The cafes in the lower town were full of old people but none were dressed in traditional outfits and only two men had impressive moustaches.
Perhaps the village-folk had received warning that a Lonely Planet author was coming to the town and they all prepared by growing stashes and getting gussied up in traditional Cretan outfits? Or perhaps the last Lonely Planet author to actually visit this town passed through in 1974 and everyone else has just used their description for subsequent editions since then?
Anogia is not an attractive town. If I had to describe it, the words I would use are: unremarkable, modern, remote, ugly, forlorn, impoverished, touristy and avoidable, among others. The town may have an interesting history but we saw no museums and none of the elderly people we met in the village spoke English. It's the kind of place that's fascinating to read about but not very interesting to actually see. How dead was this little village? I think this photo of an elderly woman taking a nap with her door open (right) says it all. After deflecting offers from about two dozen carpet sellers, we'd seen all we needed to see of the upper and lower towns, both equally forgettable. Like gluttons for punishment, we decided to take the LP guidebook authors advice on a lunch recommendation and sought out a place called Ta Skalomata, which they claimed had "home baked bread" and "great grills at reasonable prices."
In six weeks of travel around the Greek Islands, I've had exactly one bad meal and this was it. We took the waiter up on his recommendation that we try their fresh grilled lamb, but it was pricey and was about 85 percent bone, cartilage and fat. Revolting.
The torturous two-hour ride back to our base was filled with recrimination, along with a tremendous amount of whining coming from the back seat, and I felt terrible for killing our day on such a boondoggle. If we had a month in Crete, it would have been a pity, but with just a week, it felt like a criminal waste of our time.
The information you find in guidebooks is often just one person's opinion and it has to be taken with a huge grain of salt. Why had I led my family to a remote village in Crete, a place loaded with beautiful and interesting places to visit, solely based upon an enticing entry in Lonely Planet?
We'd already been burned by this book on more than one occasion. The authors told us about a "world class" Mexican restaurant in Naxos that was a joke. In Kos, we took a one-hour-and-20-minute ride on a public bus out to a town called Kefalos, based upon a description in the book, which claimed that it was a "traditional village" that was a good place for visitors looking for someplace "a little more authentic."
When I read the words "traditional village" and "authentic" I conjure up images of a nice old town, with a square filled with cafes, pedestrian streets and old stone houses. Kefalos has none of those things. Like Anogia, it's a very ordinary, modern town with little charm and nothing to see. Worst of all, we had no car and would have been stuck there for six hours, thanks to the limited bus schedule, if we hadn't been given a ride by a very friendly pharmacist in the town.
There is no way to adequately cover all of the most interesting sites in all of the Greek Islands in one book. But what's maddening about this one is that they devote tons of space to places that barely deserve to be in the book at all and gloss over or completely ignore other places that are really quite interesting.
For example, the book has a very slim chapter on Naxos, but inexplicably features a four e-page long description of a jewelry shop in Halki, another mountain village they over-hype as "one of the finest experiences" on Naxos, when in fact the place is eminently forgettable.
Likewise, there is no mention of San Michalis, an absolutely gorgeous place on Syros and the book gives short shrift to the beautiful western half of Samos and to some of that island's amazing hikes to medieval churches and monasteries.
The problem with this and indeed many guidebooks is that the authors try to make nearly every place seem interesting and so travelers who don't have time to see everything are left guessing which places they should visit and which they should skip. They delve into the town's history, which is interesting, but what you really want to know is: what's the place like and is it worth my time?
Guidebook authors are out in the towns they visit doing the research and meeting people who have a vested interest in attracting tourists to the place. It's only human nature not to want to turn around and write that a place is an unremarkable hellhole after having made friends and contacts. But that's a shame because travelers have limited time and need help prioritizing.
As for my disastrous outing in search of Cretan "authenticity," I'm as much to blame as the author of that section of the guidebook, because I've been traveling and getting burned by guidebook advice for decades and I should have known better. The next time I read about a place that's very "authentic," I'll be sure to give it a miss.
[Photo by Dave Seminara]
Filed under: Africa, Asia, Europe, North America, Greece, Books, Middle East












Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Megan Jun 25th 2012 12:53PM
Three words: Trip Advisor forums. They never let me down.
Heidi Jun 25th 2012 2:34PM
I think Lonely Planet in particular is guilty of this annoying sin. I think they are trying to recreate their sort of "trendy" label that got lost in the shuffle as they migrated from small, backpacker guidebook company to a huge conglomerate. And don't get me wrong, I use them, but I think they are trying to prove that they are edgy enough to have discovered places that no one else has. The trouble is, often, that there is a reason that no one else has bothered to discover these places!
Eileen Jun 25th 2012 6:43PM
I can't get past the fact that you took a 2 and 4 year old on this trip!! Surely you don't expect them to absorb" the culture! Isn't this what Grammy and Grampy are for?? They wanted snacks and entertainment and activity ... imagine that. That paragraph stopped me from taking seriously anything you write.
Dave Seminara Jun 26th 2012 6:09AM
Eileen, I'm not blaming my kids for wanting snacks, entertainment and what not, just describing the scene as it happened. It's one thing to be on a 4 hr car trip and quite another to be on one with complaining children. Leaving our kids with grandparents isn't an option for us. Are you free to babysit? Maybe next time we'll drop them off at your house! Also, I don't think we are the first parents in history to bring children on a 4 hour round trip car ride. I do not expect them to absorb the culture. Thanks for reading!
Jean-François Jun 26th 2012 6:53AM
We had such experiences with guidebooks, not only Lonely Planet, on many occasions. Now we use them mostly for hotel reference and points of interest. Besides what you mentioned, I would add that the indicated pricing (like hotels and restaurants) is always way off what you will actually pay, even if you have the brand new edition of the book.
It must be very difficult to write a perfect guide book, especially when hotel and restaurant owners change their fees and quality the moment their business is mentioned in a book.
It's annoying at first but when you get used to it, you can get good information from the guide books.
Jeanne Oliver Jun 26th 2012 7:18AM
I can assure you that Lonely Planet passed through that village after 1974. I visited it in 1999 when I researched and then wrote Lonely Planet's first edition of their Crete guidebook. To be honest, I have no recollection of that village but as I wrote nothing about traditional dress or any of the other deceptive descriptions I assume they were added later. I did mention the variety of weavings and embroidery and the "desperate" sales pitches but evidently the town did not much impress me. I can't absolve myself of all responsibility though! It was probably me that first added the town as a highlight, probably based on the weaving and "rebellious spirit". My guess is that a subsequent writer happened to land in town on a feast day or somebody's marriage when the townspeople happened to be dressed up. A more leisurely visit would have revealed that, but nothing, nothing in guidebook research is leisurely. I remember Crete as particularly hellish to research partly because of those lengthy drives on winding roads. Imagine having to visit two other villages about 50km apart on the same day and you'll understand the problem! That doesn't help you as a guidebook-buying traveller though. Lonely Planet does place a high priority on breadth of coverage. They want to cover every place that every competitor covers which is normal in a highly-competitive market. I know for a fact, though, that every (coherent) letter from every reader is read and reviewed. If enough people (maybe even just you!) write to say that Anogia is a waste, it will be dropped.
Paul Hellander Jun 26th 2012 6:10PM
As Jean mentioned, it was a later Lonely Planet author that passed by Anogeia and that was me (in around 200)! Yes, my wife (Stella) and I did happen upon a wedding, did meet some very important people in the Cretan music scene, did attend the cultural Yakynthia Festival that took place in Anogeia that year, did interview renowned musician Vasilis Skoulas for the then upcoming second edition of LP's Crete guide and generally had a very genuine Cretan time. It helped that we both spoke Greek and knew how to get under the skin of a people who are - and I admit it - rather resilient to outsiders. With the passage of time I can honestly say that for Stella and me our time in Anogeia and on the surrounding mountain plains remains still one of the highlights of Crete. I grant that for an outsider to drop in and expect the magic to happen, it is a tall order: this is not ready-made Disney-culture; it has a to sought out and earned. Anogeia needs another mindset and if you've gone running from the boozy, Anglo-fixated rat traps of the North coast expecting instant Cretan karma, it ain't gonna happen overnight. My sympathy to the author Dave Seminara, but when it comes to real Cretan culture, you won't find it skin deep and it won't be waiting for you simply because you made the effort to drive there. The real task begins on arrival. Give it another go, Dave. If you want to find a chink in the armour try talking to Vasilis Skoulas at the Delina reception Centre outside of Anogeia (do you speak Greek?). Ask him to invite you to a wedding - a real Cretan wedding with nary a foreigner in sight. Ask him to take you to a midnight lamb BBQ at a Mitato (traditional stone shepherd hut) on the flanks of Psiloritis where Homeric is not an underused adjective to describe the magic that will ensue. Be patient. Anogeia will enter under your skin ... slowly.
Eileen Jun 26th 2012 7:05PM
Touchy, touchy ... and that is not a misspelled touche'
Dave Seminara Jun 27th 2012 1:51AM
Thanks to Jeanne and Paul for responding. As I said in the piece, I'm generally very high on LP guidebooks, and the fact that they were willing to respond reflects well on Lonely Planet. That said, let me make a few points/suggestions.
We're on a 6 week trip around the Greek islands and have 1 of those six in Crete. I'm sure some readers have more time than us but I'd venture to say that most LP readers have even less time. We have 1 week in Crete, certainly not enough time to devote lots of time to sleepy, remote little Anogia to get it to "seep into our skin."
As guidebook writers, you should assume that people aren't going to spend a tremendous amount of time in a place. Nor should you assume that they will be able to speak Greek or get invited to a wedding. You should assume they'll be there on a short visit and probably won't speak the language.
What I'd like to see in the guidebook section on Anogia is some concession that this is not a physically attractive place. When we set off on this day trip, I had in mind other mountain villages on other islands that we loved- I'm thinking about Manolates in Samos and Apiranthos on Naxos, for example- those places are beautiful, Anogia is not. It's just an ordinary, modern village with nothing to see. I take your point that if you stay long enough, speak the language and meet people, you can have a great experience, but guess what, you can do that in almost any village anywhere in the interior of Crete. So no need to drive far to seek out this one place. For example, you can do the same thing in the village of Spili, 5 minutes away from us in Plakias, and I think that place is more attractive.