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A Taste Of Mayan Cuisine In Playa Del Carmen
On Playa del Carmen's main drag, you have a world of cuisines at your feet. Falafel? You've got it. Bagels? Right around the corner. Cuban bars, French patisseries, Italian pizzerias ... the tourist districts of Mexico's Mayan Riviera certainly don't lack for international options.
But authentic Mexican food? Well, that's a different story.
I arrived in Playa after a multi-hour journey filled with layovers and bus transfers. My body was tired and my stomach was empty. I was hungry, but not just for food; I craved the tastes of Mexico, preferably paired with radish, lime and an ice cold Dos Equis.
Instead, I found Subway and Starbucks. About 20 minutes into the food hunt, I was about to throw in the towel and settle for a slice of pizza. But then, my nose caught a whiff of warmth and spice. There, on the corner of Avenida 5 and Calle 22, was exactly what I'd been looking for – Yaxche, a small but sophisticated spot promising a "journey into Mayan flavors."
Before the Spaniards introduced their preferences, the people of the Yucatan peninsula subsisted on a staple diet of maize, squash, beans and chili peppers. Today, it's rare to find traditional Mayan dishes in the over-touristed resort towns of the peninsula. But a culinary revival is afoot, with Yaxche at the forefront of efforts to rescue and preserve ancient Mayan cuisine.
The restaurant menu looked foreign, and not just because my Spanish was rusty. The majority of dishes are indigenous to the region, with names unfamiliar to my Western eyes and unpronounceable by my Western lips. I was intrigued by a section titled "Grandma's Favorites," as grandmothers tend to know their stuff.
I settled on a sampler of her suggestions, which promised a "journey into Mayan flavors." There was Tsotolbilchay, a Mayan-style tamale filled with a spinach-like green called chaya, boiled eggs and pumpkin seeds, wrapped in a plantain leaf and covered in tomato sauce; Pibxcatic, an eye-wateringly spicy dish of grilled Xcatic peppers filled with slow-roasted pork; Papadzul, a type of egg taco covered with pumpkin seed sauce and epazote spice; Shrimp Panucho, another taco contraption, this time with refried black beans, shredded turkey, avocado, onions and perfectly grilled shrimp; and Tsic, a ceviche variation of shrimp and fish marinated in sour orange juice, Xcatic pepper and coriander.
"Mmmmmhh!!" read the menu after the Tsic description. "Mmmmmhh!!" was right. Each mouthful unlocked new, exotic tastes: the burning spice of the Xcatic pepper, the slight bitterness of the chaya leaf, the smoky sweetness of the pumpkin seeds. Yaxche wasn't the 10-peso fish taco stand I had pictured, but it certainly served my craving for a taste of authenticity in an otherwise manufactured corner of Mexico.
Yaxche is located at the corner of Avenida 5 and Calle 22 in downtown Playa del Carmen. The "Moloch" sampler costs 205 Mexican Pesos (about US$15).