Click on a label to read posts from that part of the world.
The Lost World: New York City's Little Guyana
In April 2011, in the Richmond Hill neighborhood of Queens, two rival Sikh factions, long at odds with each other, decided it was time to come to blows. As one faction prayed in a temple, the other entered. What happened next is straight out of a B-list movie you might see while traveling on a bus in Asia: members of each group reacted to the forthcoming fight by reaching for their swords -- I'm not making this up -- and a bloody sword fight ensued. A sword fight, in 2011 New York City.And so, I decided I had to go. Last week a group of friends and I boarded the A train for the 40-minute subway ride to Richmond Hill. Our destination: Little Guyana. Indo-Caribbeans (Caribbeans of Indian descent), many from Guyana (and a few from Trinidad), have been settling here in droves since the 1980s. So many that while the country of Guyana has a population of 750,000, the Guyanese population in New York is said to be close to 200,000.
Guyana, a diminutive country in northeastern South America, is a mystery to many people. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle even used the country as the setting for "The Lost World."
We poured into a doubles shop -- Sandy's Roti Shop -- where a corner kiosk sold everything from belts and flowers to cosmetics and neckties, and another guy offered soca CDs. Meanwhile, the scent of subcontinental spices pervaded the air. Described to me as something like a chickpea-filled taco, doubles consist of a soft, thin, spongy bread with channa (chickpeas and Indian spices) inside. It's a mushy eating affair but so good I had to get seconds.
This isn't the first time my friends and I have gone deep into Queens to have an outer-borough eating extravaganza. Two months ago we took the Long Island Rail Road out to Murray Hill, Queens, also known as Korean Town. We spent the evening at restaurants where we were the only non-Koreans. Locals were asking us -- and not in a condescending way -- what we were doing there and how we found the place. I found spending the evening absorbed in a totally different culture -- accessed so easily by a short train ride away -- to be the best antidote when travel is not a possibility.
About an hour after munching on some doubles and strolling the main drag again -- more real estate offices, doubles shops and clothes stores selling saris -- we entered The Nest, a narrow restaurant serving up traditional Guyanese fare. A procession of dishes soon began landing on our table, many of which were fusion dishing reflecting the diversity of Guyanese society: corn meal-encrusted shrimp, chicken and potato curry and even a version of chow mein. Finally, a basket of fried fish nuggets was passed around. When we asked the waitress what it was, she replied, "shark."
Later in the night we filed into Maracas, a popular Little Guyana club where we danced to soca music and drank bottles of Red Stripe and Carib beer and tried our hardest not to get into a sword fight. Our group, mostly journalists and editors, all agreed that we hadn't been to a dance club of this proportion in a long time. Well, at least not since many of us had gone to similar clubs when traveling. The experience was all the more reason to appreciate the ability to "travel" around the world in New York City.
Filed under: Arts and Culture, History, Food and Drink, North America, United States, Guyana, Budget Travel, Nightlife, Caribbean












Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Nancy Mar 25th 2012 7:31PM
What does a Sikh sword fight have to do with little Guyana???? The author is clearly confused -- collapsing India and Guyana. Someone should explain to him the difference between the South Asian diaspora and the Indo-Caribbean.
scott Mar 25th 2012 1:41AM
Hey, here's an idea: read the New York Times article the writer linked to above and you'll see there really was a group sword fight in Little Guyana last year.
And if you knew anything about Guyana, you'd know that a large part of the population are people of Indian (as in the Indian subcontinent) descent.
nancy Mar 25th 2012 7:36PM
There may have been a sword fight, but your ignorance of Guyana's population proves my point exactly! Indo-Caribbean and South Asian is not the same thing. There are Hindus and Muslims of sub-continental descent in Guyana (located in South America), but Sikhs are from the Punjab region (and newsflash -- that's not South America!)
osuross Mar 25th 2012 6:54PM
@Scott: Aaaaah, it's Cathy's fault she didn't conduct research to render a non sequitur comprehensible...I see, an abysmal article is the reader's fault.
scott Mar 25th 2012 7:40PM
Yes, okay, point taken. Whatever the case, there are Sikhs who live in and around Little Guyana.
Megan Snedden Mar 26th 2012 9:59AM
Hey David,
Great story! I was just in Richmond, Hills for the first time for Holi. The Guyanese food was really interesting...some sort of mix between Asian-style noodles and rices, but with a spicy curry twist? Thought I could hear a record screech when I walked into a Guyanese bar as the only non-Guyanese person there. I definitely agree, wandering NYC feels like traveling the world.
Darrin Mar 26th 2012 5:58PM
I enjoyed your story of your adventures in Little Guyana. Too bad you didn't come across some labba at the restaurants (I have yet to find it on Liberty Ave, and I'm not sure if it's even legal to import it). It would have been interesting to read your take on it.