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Marblehead, Massachusetts: America's best preserved historic town?
Tourism boards across the country have long struggled to find innovative ways to market destinations large and small, inviting and mundane. We have "historic districts" that have been turned into vast parking lots; towns that play up tenuous connections to living and deceased celebrities; states that promote Amish tourism even though the Amish simply want to be left alone; hokey festivals; and any number of other contrived gimmicks to try to get you to come visit.West Virginia is Wild and Wonderful. Pennsylvania promises that You've Got a Friend There. New Mexico is The Land of Enchantment. In Kansas, There's no Place Like Home. Louisiana is a Sportsman's Paradise. Virginia is for Lovers (and pathological drivers, in my estimation).
Massachusetts likes to call itself The Spirit of America. That might sound a bit grandiose but there is a town on Boston's North Shore that I think is the best-preserved historic town in America. The American landscape gets more homogenous by the day, but Marblehead, perched on a dramatic finger of land on the Atlantic Ocean just thirty minutes north of Boston, was founded in 1629 and has improbably managed to retain many of its historic homes, cemeteries and churches.
Tourists descend on Colonial Williamsburg like packs of hungry hyenas on the trail of a fresh carcass, but somehow, Marblehead's atmospheric streets remain largely tourist free. The town is the birthplace of the U.S. Navy and remains one of the east coast's premier yachting centers, with three yacht clubs and a host of regattas. It isn't close to a highway or train station and that's probably why it has managed to avoid the strip mall scourge that's plagued so many old towns around the country.
On the edge of Marblehead you'll find a Starbucks, a CVS and some other chain stores, and there are big box retailers ten miles away, but Marblehead's historic core is filled with independent shops and restaurants with nary a national chain in sight. Everything is pretty much Wicked Local. But the town's biggest draws are the colorful 18th and 19th century homes, many with nameplates showing the name and occupation of their original inhabitants, and its spectacular natural setting on the Atlantic Ocean.
Marblehead is an undeniably upscale place with its fair share of millionaires but unlike other cutesy historic enclaves, it also has its share of lower income residents and budget friendly dining and drinking options. I have family members who live in Marblehead, so I've been visiting this town for more than twenty years and I never get tired of it. Aside from the beauty and the charm, it's a real community where people know each other well and wouldn't dream of living anywhere else.
Here's what to do in Marblehead.
The Muffin Shop - In a town filled with history, you might wonder why I'm sending you to a muffin shop. Well, for the muffins, obviously, but this place is more than just a damn good place to add to your waistline with homemade muffins or lobster rolls made fresh each morning. It's the heart and soul of the town and if you want to meet locals, you'll find them lingering here in groups over breakfast every morning. But come early because they never seem to bake enough to keep up with demand.
Old Town - Get lost on the backstreets of Marblehead's Old Town. There is no single neighborhood in the country that gives one a better flavor of what life was like in Colonial America.
Shops along Washington Street - There are a host of interesting, if pricey, shops here including the new Atlantis & Cloudveil outdoor specialty shop.
Crocker Park - A great place to sit and watch the boats go by.
The Driftwood - One reviewer on Yelp called this hole-in-the-wall eatery "Swamp Yankee territory," and I couldn't agree more. Another great spot to meet locals.
Devereux Beach - This great little beach is dramatically situated at the foot of a little body of land referred to as Marblehead's Neck.
Hit the Neck - Take a drive or bike ride out to the very end of the Neck and enjoy the unbelievable view from the benches in Chandler Hovey Park next to the Marblehead Lighthouse. On the way back to town check out the Old Corinthian Yacht Club. Just try to look like you belong and you probably won't be asked to leave.
Old Burial Hill Cemetery - One of the most atmospheric old cemeteries in New England and it offers a spectacular view to boot.
Fort Sewall - This was an armed fort used to defend against British invaders in the War of 1812. If you have kids, they'll enjoy sitting on top of the cannons and looking out onto the Atlantic.
Dark and Stormy on the Waterfront - Have a tall 16-ounce dark & stormy, rum and ginger beer, cocktail at Maddi's Sail Loft and visit the Barnacle for an early, harbor-side dinner.
Getting there - You can take Express Bus 441 or 442 from Haymarket downtown right to Marblehead's Old Town but it takes a good hour. If you drive, follow route 1A, which isn't quite as straightforward as it sounds. Signs on this twisting road can be elusive.
Images by Dave Seminara, Rick Harris and Garden State Hiker on Flickr.
Old Town - Get lost on the backstreets of Marblehead's Old Town. There is no single neighborhood in the country that gives one a better flavor of what life was like in Colonial America.Shops along Washington Street - There are a host of interesting, if pricey, shops here including the new Atlantis & Cloudveil outdoor specialty shop.
Crocker Park - A great place to sit and watch the boats go by.
The Driftwood - One reviewer on Yelp called this hole-in-the-wall eatery "Swamp Yankee territory," and I couldn't agree more. Another great spot to meet locals.
Devereux Beach - This great little beach is dramatically situated at the foot of a little body of land referred to as Marblehead's Neck.
Hit the Neck - Take a drive or bike ride out to the very end of the Neck and enjoy the unbelievable view from the benches in Chandler Hovey Park next to the Marblehead Lighthouse. On the way back to town check out the Old Corinthian Yacht Club. Just try to look like you belong and you probably won't be asked to leave.Old Burial Hill Cemetery - One of the most atmospheric old cemeteries in New England and it offers a spectacular view to boot.
Fort Sewall - This was an armed fort used to defend against British invaders in the War of 1812. If you have kids, they'll enjoy sitting on top of the cannons and looking out onto the Atlantic.
Dark and Stormy on the Waterfront - Have a tall 16-ounce dark & stormy, rum and ginger beer, cocktail at Maddi's Sail Loft and visit the Barnacle for an early, harbor-side dinner.
Getting there - You can take Express Bus 441 or 442 from Haymarket downtown right to Marblehead's Old Town but it takes a good hour. If you drive, follow route 1A, which isn't quite as straightforward as it sounds. Signs on this twisting road can be elusive.Images by Dave Seminara, Rick Harris and Garden State Hiker on Flickr.
Filed under: North America, United States
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Robert Mar 23rd 2012 11:01AM
Excellent article on Marblehead. Old town looks fabulous! Would love to visit this part of the country one day from the west coast of Canada.
Thanks for the interesting article, an area full of history!
MHD resident Mar 24th 2012 12:49PM
Marblehead actually has six yacht clubs, if you include the Pleon Junior Yacht Club. Good article, though!
Kathy Mar 23rd 2012 4:23PM
Thank you so much for your article about Marblehead. I've lived her for over 20 years and I am as much in love with it now as ever.
Not only is this a town that treasures its history but we pride ourselves in supporting the arts of all kinds---music, art, dance, theatre, etc. There's always something going on. One of the true gems of this community is the 42-year "me & thee coffeehouse" located at the lovely Unitarian Universalist Church of Marblehead on Mugford Street. You can find some of the best and brightest musicians there on any given Friday night. Check out the schedule (not open summers though). www.meandthee.org
Kat Mar 23rd 2012 6:33PM
Thanks for the shout-out! Having lived here for almost 40 years, I often notice that many of us take our lovely little town for granted. We live in a New England paradise, but only notice it when we look at it through fresh eyes. There is nothing like showing off our amazing community to someone who has never seen it.
Old Dewy Mar 23rd 2012 6:38PM
No matter how long you live somewhere else, a "native" Marbleheader (born in Marblehead) will always be a Marbleheader. No my daughter lives there and her children will know the joy my wife & I had growing up in Marblehead!!!
Frosty Mar 24th 2012 9:23AM
whip!
Dave Seminara Mar 23rd 2012 7:51PM
Terrific photos. Thanks for the link!
Merlin13 Mar 24th 2012 12:17AM
There are seven, not three, yacht clubs in Marblehead... Corinthian, Eastern, Boston, Marblehead, Dolphin, Pleon , CBYC...
Dave Seminara Mar 24th 2012 12:19AM
7? Astonishing. I've only seen 3 with my own eyes.
Alexis Mar 24th 2012 2:21PM
Another cute little village people should visit is in Maine and named Port Clyde. I like to call it the village time forgot cause that's what it reminded me of the first time i ever visited.
roger Mar 24th 2012 12:49PM
Great place with great memories for me--visited Marblehead some 47 years ago and still stands-out in my mind.
If I remember correctly, one of the buildings had the original painting of the "Spirit of '76" (two drummers and a drummer--also know as "Yankee Doodle Dandy").
jan Mar 25th 2012 9:12AM
That hangs inside Abbott Hall.
Paul V. McLaughlin Mar 26th 2012 1:44PM
It has been said that they entire town of Marblehead is a museum and walking the streets present palbable reminders of our beginnings. When you explore its early days, its fishing narrative and the many extraordinary contributions and sacrifices by Marbleheaders from the founding of the country and throughout our entire history, you will agree that it should hold a special place in the minds and hearts of all Americans. Visit the Marblehead Museum and Historical Society and the Jeremiah Lee Mansion to learn more.
Bill Mar 26th 2012 2:46PM
First time I visited was for the Marblehead Halifax Race in 2007. When returned again for race in 2009 I met my fiance and have lived in the area ever since. The town is magic and if you fancy a great Dark N Stormy and some good music pop by the Landing on Front Street. The Marblehead to Halifax Race attracts nearly 100 Yachts and typically coincides with the July 4th celebrations. The race happens every two years and is hosted by the Boston Yacht Club. A great time to visit in my opinion.
Deb Mar 28th 2012 3:36PM
I too love Marblehead, and enjoyed reading it's praises in your well written piece. Only thing I would add is the Spirit of 76 Bookstore(offers great author lectures and events, and is dog friendly), and Shubies for great gourmet foods and wines.