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Richmond: America's most underrated city?
As the former capitol of the Confederacy, Richmond has long been one of the premier destinations in the country for Civil War geeks. But as I discovered on two recent visits, it's also a young, vibrant city with architecture treasures, stunning parks, walkable neighborhoods, great food and perhaps the most elegant vintage cinema in the country.For Yanks looking for a quick taste of old Dixie, it's also the northernmost Southern city, making it an easy weekend getaway for Northerners in search of some Southern hospitality. I live in Northern Virginia, which is technically part of the South, but in reality, Southern accents and good biscuits are a two hour drive south in Richmond, which is on my short list for most underrated historic cities in America. Below are my suggestions for how to spend a memorable weekend in Virginia's capital.
Sites
Maymont- The hilly grounds of this 100 acre estate built by Confederate tycoon, Major James Dooley, offer panoramic views of the James River and feature lush gardens, a children's farm, and a nature center. There is a small admission fee to visit the mansion and nature center but you can explore the beautiful grounds and visit the farm for free.
St. John's Episcopal Church- Built in 1741, this handsome wooden church, located in Richmond's historic Church Hill neighborhood, is where Patrick Henry delivered his famous "Give me liberty, or give me death," speech to George Washington.
The Fan- If you like Victorian architecture, this alluring neighborhood just west of downtown is a must see. Easily one of my favorite walkable neighborhoods in the country.
The Byrd Theatre- Built in 1928, this may be the most beautiful old time cinema in the country. Even if you don't plan to take in a $1.99 movie, stop in to take a look at this masterpiece theater, which is located in Carytown, a neighborhood with great shops and restaurants.
Virginia Museum of Fine Arts- A free-to-enter, world-class museum with more than 20,000 works of art, including a very impressive collection of South Asian art.
The American Civil War Center at Tredegar- If you're only going to hit one Civil War related museum in Richmond, this is the place to go for a terrific overview of the conflict. Opened in 2006, the museum offers a visually attractive, interactive user friendly experience that depicts the war from the perspective of the Union, the Confederacy and African Americans.
The Virginia State Capitol- Take the time to explore this Classical Revival gem, which Thomas Jefferson modeled on a Roman era temple in Nimes, France.
James River Bridges- Take the Robert E. Lee footbridge over to Belle Island for a great walk and then check out the unnamed, interpretative footbridge just off the Canal Walk for insights into the fall of Richmond during the waning days of the Civil War.
The Museum of the Confederacy- While the American Civil War Center offers a nicer overview of the conflict, this is a great stop to see Confederate memorabilia, like Robert E. Lee's hat and tent and Jeb Stuart's knee high boots. The gift shop sells lots of kitsch, including nylon Confederate flags for $39.
Children's Museum of Richmond- If you're traveling with kids, this is their reward for tolerating all the Civil War history.
Food
Alamo BBQ- Cheap and delicious, this is one of my favorite BBQ places anywhere, but I also love the tilapia burritos. Excellent pecan pie for $2.93 a slice. The only downside is that you have to sit in a tent, but it's not as cold as you might think, even in January.
Edo's Squid- Italian fine dining in a hidden location at very fair prices. Arrive early to beat the crowds.
Comfort- Southern comfort food at its finest in a relaxed setting.
821 Bakery Café- Tasty food and a terrific beer selection in a cool old building with exposed brick walls and a vintage tin ceiling. Also wins my award for the most colorful bathrooms I've ever seen.
The American Civil War Center at Tredegar- If you're only going to hit one Civil War related museum in Richmond, this is the place to go for a terrific overview of the conflict. Opened in 2006, the museum offers a visually attractive, interactive user friendly experience that depicts the war from the perspective of the Union, the Confederacy and African Americans.
The Virginia State Capitol- Take the time to explore this Classical Revival gem, which Thomas Jefferson modeled on a Roman era temple in Nimes, France.
James River Bridges- Take the Robert E. Lee footbridge over to Belle Island for a great walk and then check out the unnamed, interpretative footbridge just off the Canal Walk for insights into the fall of Richmond during the waning days of the Civil War.
The Museum of the Confederacy- While the American Civil War Center offers a nicer overview of the conflict, this is a great stop to see Confederate memorabilia, like Robert E. Lee's hat and tent and Jeb Stuart's knee high boots. The gift shop sells lots of kitsch, including nylon Confederate flags for $39.
Children's Museum of Richmond- If you're traveling with kids, this is their reward for tolerating all the Civil War history.
Food
Alamo BBQ- Cheap and delicious, this is one of my favorite BBQ places anywhere, but I also love the tilapia burritos. Excellent pecan pie for $2.93 a slice. The only downside is that you have to sit in a tent, but it's not as cold as you might think, even in January.
Edo's Squid- Italian fine dining in a hidden location at very fair prices. Arrive early to beat the crowds.
Comfort- Southern comfort food at its finest in a relaxed setting.
821 Bakery Café- Tasty food and a terrific beer selection in a cool old building with exposed brick walls and a vintage tin ceiling. Also wins my award for the most colorful bathrooms I've ever seen.
Gallery: Richmond
Filed under: History, North America, United States, Budget Travel
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Charlie Jan 24th 2012 1:54PM
My wife and I spent a night here at the downtown Marriott last May, in order to visit the Museum of the Confederacy. We'll be back in 2013, and see all these great places you've described. Very impressive!
Abbey Jan 24th 2012 3:33PM
I’m currently planning a trip to Richmond and I came across your blog post with all the great suggestions of sites to see and places to eat. When I visited Florida I stayed at the Page Terrace Beachfront Motel (http://www.pageterrace.com) which was in proximity to all the sites I wanted to see. Can you recommend any similar motels in or around Richmond?
heathero Jan 24th 2012 4:58PM
Abbey,
there are several great hotels in and around the city. depending on your budget I would suggest the following hotels that are located with the city limits and closest if not right in the middle of some of our historic districts. *this site will only allow 3 urls so you will have to put some of the links together to follow them.
www. jefferson hotel. com (****it just earned 5 bright shiny stars)
omni hotels com (****smack dab in the middle of our Shockoe Bottom Historic District)
www.williammillerhouse.com (****B&B in the middle of our historic Fan District)
http://berkeleyhotel.com/ (****attached to our famous Shockoe Slip Shopping District and the River)
hilton garden inn . hilton . com/ en/ gi/ hotels/ index . jhtml ? more Desc = true &ctyhocn =RICDTGI (*****really downtown finance district with plenty of galleries to explore and LOADS of delicious non-chain restraunts and pubs within walking distance!)
www.doubletree1.hilton.com/en_US/dt/hotel/RICFSDT-DoubleTree-by-Hilton-Hotel-Richmond-Downtown-Virginia/index.do;jsessionid=FB1F82C76BC9E7231DAB8B0FC90676E0.etc44 (****Cheap & in the middle of it all - plus close to interstate so you can even do a quick day trip to Williamsburg, Yorktown & Jamestown)
Enjoy yourself in RVA, we love visitors!! if you decide to move here, well give me a call! in the mean time you can "like" my facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/1realtor4u and tell your friends!!!
Cheers,
Heather O
Carolyn Jan 24th 2012 7:28PM
The Linden Row is another hotel option, just a few blocks from the Jefferson and a bit cheaper. I think Edgar Allen Poe lived there at some point (You could confirm if that's true by visiting the Po museum!) A few other restaurants: Millies, The Roosevelt, Pasture, Can Can, and Lamplighter is a fantastic coffee shop and roaster!
Megan Jan 24th 2012 4:58PM
Hi, Abbey,
There are many great places to stay in Richmond, it all just depends on what you hope to see! The Berkeley, Linden Row, and The Jefferson are both great spots, and The Jefferson is a must-see if nothing else! The Omni is also right at the heart of it all. There are several B & Bs in the Fan area that are close to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and Virginia Historical Society as well as tons of great dining. The "Visit Richmond" Facebook page might be helpful to you as plan your trip, and you can also email me with questions - msemmelman@richmondva.org. Also, you can visit: http://hotels.visitrichmondva.com/#/
@RVAfuture Jan 24th 2012 5:45PM
As a self-proclaimed expert in Richmond, I have to agree that this is an excellent list of places for tourists to see the awesome of RVA. I am originally from Northern Michigan, where nothing of historical significance ever happens.
History is everywhere down here... and you rarely run into actual "confederate" people except on Lee-Jackson weekend. Mostly, it is hipsters... especially near the fan/carytown/VCU area. - @RVAfuture.
maeKatzj metlson Jan 25th 2012 8:45AM
Austin claims to be something it's not. The music scene is sub par at best, SXSW doesn't discount the fact that the city is full of pretentious hipsters.
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Maureen Egan Jan 25th 2012 12:51PM
A food tour with Real Richmond--most Saturdays, 2-4:30--takes Richmond off its pedestal and puts it on your plate!
Dawn Waters Jan 25th 2012 3:06PM
and...Richmond boasts the #1 ranked public university art and design program in the country - VCUarts! Lots of great visual art, design, dance, music and theater in this town. Never heard of Alamo BBQ - I'll have to search it out. I vouch for the other restaurants on the list.
Tom Bowden Jan 25th 2012 3:20PM
World Cycling Championships coming to Richmond in 2015, with lead up events in 2013 and 2014. Richmond is a great cycling town. read all about it here: http://bit.ly/dzKkzw
Ashlee B Jan 25th 2012 5:21PM
I've lived in Richmond MOST of my life. Born and raised in the outskirts just minutes from the city. When I moved away for college and then across the country after graduation, I really truly realized all the amazing things Richmond has to offer that I couldn't find anywhere else! Talk about food...Richmond does the food industry VERY well! To the author who frequents Richmond, I highly recommend kitchen 64, the republic, strawberry street cafe, pescado's, the black sheep, terrants, and oh gosh...there are so many I can't begin to list them all!! For those of your traveling here, if you are ever around on the first friday of the month, check out broad streets first fridays art walk! It has a bunch of art gallerys open as well as shopping, food, and even flam throwers/dancers/street performers...when the weather is nice. Richmond really truly is an incredible city! You also left out the Botanical Gardens, Browns Island/Belle Isle (
Dawn Jan 25th 2012 10:07PM
Hollywood Cemetery is a must see. Also for food, Buz and Ned's BBQ near Bow Tie Cinema and Bottoms Up Pizza near the Canal. Lots of activities on the James River. The Edgar Allan Poe museum is pretty cool as well.
Sally Feb 2nd 2012 9:16AM
Don't forget the Richmond Folk Festival -http://www.richmondfolkfestival.org/. This huge FREE three day event takes place every October. Not to be missed!
Jen Feb 2nd 2012 4:04PM
I have lived in Richmond, well on the out skirts, all my life and this is a great place to live, work and play. So spots not mentioned but are a must to go. Cary street- this one way street host great shops, fantastic food and in the spring one great watermelon festival. My favorite spots there are Galexy dinner- a scifi themes diner that has great food with some very interetingly named dishes like nuclear waste dog. After that head to the Byrd Theatre only one or two blocks away. This is a neat place all year round. The theatre is a 1920ish theatre that has $1.99 movies. They have an organist that plays there. One neat thing about the theatre is that it is a fantastic place for a wedding! I was a part of a wedding there and it was absolutely gorgeous. Now if you are more into the out doors hit the James river. It has great rapids for the adrenalin inthusiest. Or head over to Manchester wall for some rock climbing. Or go to pony pasture to swim and splash among the rocks in the river. Another must go to place is Bottoms up pizza in the bottom rather Shackoe bottom. This area is the old warehouse district from the tobacco days. Cobble streets old rail tracks and very cool architecture line the streets. Back to bottoms up pizza, this place is so good! When you first go in look at the paint scheme. They painted the waterline from when the building was flooded during Hurricane Gaston (I think). It is remodeled of course but I thought that was neat. Thier pizza is great. Flavor Like Greek, Chesapeake are amazing. I get mine in the portobello caps.
Well there are so many other great places and things to do. Don't be afraid to explore the city.