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Umpqua National Forest: Oregon's waterfall alley

"People are drawn to waterfalls as places of wonder, relaxation, and inspiration" -Umpqua National Forest brochure, "Thundering Waters"
I remember an old sage I once camped with in Baja, Mexico referring to campfires as being "nature's televisions". As we all sat circled around the dancing flames mirthfully sharing a bottle of tequila and eating freshly caught fish, I decided that a well-built campfire is, in its singular ability to capture the rapt attention of a silent crowd, nature's equivalent to a 48-inch plasma.
For the last 8 years of my traveling life I have held this as the truth.
That was until yesterday. As I start a 10 day road trip across the United States to explore "10 days, 10 states, 10 great American sights" my faith in what comprises nature's television has suddenly been knocked to the curb.
I say this because here in Oregon, deep inside the Umpqua National Forest, I have found a challenger to the title of nature's television in the complex combination of rivers and gravity we creatively call the waterfall.
You read it here first: Waterfalls are nature's television, and here in Umpqua National Forest, I find myself literally swimming in them.
Sandwiched between Crater Lake National Park in the south and the vineyards of Willamette Valley in the North, Umpqua National Forest is a little-visited ribbon of America that features every type of waterfall you could ever imagine, all within easy strolling distance of the 172 mile Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway. In Umpqua, you cannot drive or hike more than a few miles without running into a well maintained trailhead for a thundering display of water and rock. Along the drive, no fewer than 15 named waterfalls spring from both sides of the road.
Gallery: Umpqua National Forest Oregon
The enchanting thing about waterfalls is the fact that, like snowflakes, no two waterfalls are alike. Horsetail, cascade, segmented, fans, and tiers are all various waterfall structures prominently on display in Umpqua. In a dense green canyon dripping in moss, a two-tiered fall plunges 120 ft. into a pool that is so placid the local Umpqua Indians bestowed upon it the name of Toketee, indigenous for "pretty" or "graceful". Thousands of years later, Toketee Falls is the most famous waterfall in the region and greatly lives up to its name.
Just up the road, 50 ft. Susan Creek Falls blasts through a dark and narrow canyon which sits just below a collection of native Indian mounds where adolescent boys would camp during their quest towards manhood. Further up towards the top of the valley, a 1.5 mile stroll on the North Umpqua Trail brings you to Lemolo Falls, a 102 ft. horsetail waterfall that explodes over the towering precipice above. To the Umpqua people, Lemolo means "wild and untamed", and as the mists erupt off of the slippery rocks below, the native moniker couldn't be more apt.
Finally, for those who like their waterfalls narrow and high, 272 ft. tall Watson Falls is the highest waterfall in southwest Oregon and is located a mere .3 miles walk from the road. Unlike the more popular and heavily visited Columbia River Gorge-Oregon's most famous waterfall alley and home to Multnomah Falls, a tour bus and souvenir stand outpost of fun-it's still possible to sit at the base of Watson Falls and listen to nothing but the sounds of the forest.
Although it's possible to blow through Umpqua National Forest in little more than an afternoon, a well-maintained system of campgrounds is scattered throughout the forest and provides a relaxing getaway far away from the crowds.
So next time you're in the soggy Northwest, consider pitching a tent far up the Umpqua river valley and taking to the woods for a bit. Throw on an early morning flannel, heat up a pot of coffee on the camp stove, and disappear for a while in one of the dwindling places in the West where it's still possible to have waterfalls all to yourself.
Follow Kyle on the rest of his series as he explores "10 days, 10 states, 10 great American sights"
Filed under: Hiking, Stories, North America, United States, Camping












Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Oregonian Nov 7th 2011 8:17PM
It is UMPQUA !!! There is NO H on the end of the word!!! Didn't you read any of the signs you passed on your trip?
Kyle Ellison Nov 7th 2011 10:05PM
Wow, Oregonian, thank you for pointing out the error. That was a previous draft with the incorrect spelling of Umpquah. Yes, I indeed know that it is Umpqua, and I intended to change it to the correct spelling. Too much time driving makes my eyes weak...thanks for reading, and commenting.
Joe Wilkins Nov 8th 2011 12:06AM
I want to hike all the waterfalls on the Oregon side of the Columbia Gorge, but i cant find a list of all the 77 waterfalls names.
http://leanmusclexsite.net
sabrina clements Nov 9th 2011 12:24AM
Wow,.. All places are super.. Beautiful to see... All are the better environment....
mayra padilla Nov 8th 2011 2:12AM
Be sure to get a pass for the parks though. $50 covers all parks for a year, otherwise most are like $10 enterance fee.
http://www.goodreads.com/group/show/57897.Big_Body_With_Muscle
Jade Smith Nov 8th 2011 5:05AM
Roseburg is located in the beautiful Umpqua Valley and boasts of many natural scenic views. The city neighborhoods range from fixers to beautiful turn of the century historic homes as well as brand new custom homes. The diversity of neighborhood types is always attractive to new people moving into town.
You have posted a very beautiful view Kyle! This is one of Oregon's best. Keep on posting! :) ~ http://thinkrentals.com