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Chef Steven Grostick has never worked in a kitchen outside of Michigan. It's a remarkable accomplishment in an industry focused on apprenticeships in France, Italy, Japan, on jumping from stove to stove in New York City, on doing a turn at a resort in Arizona. Staying in-state has let him amass a network of purveyors, and he's calling in favors from as many as he can at his year-old restaurant Toasted Oak in Novi, a growing, mostly white town halfway between Ann Arbor and downtown Detroit. I sat down in his restaurant's bustling lounge to catch up and gauge the temperature of eating out in the area.
"I was born and raised here, and with the way the economy's been, and the way the dining scene is, I've always said that Michigan is not a dining state," Grostick tells me. "Nobody says 'Hey, let's go to Detroit to eat,' not like Chicago or San Francisco or Vegas. But we're such a food state in the fact that we've got the five Great Lakes, we've got all the fresh seafood, we've got awesome amounts of farms here."
So what's happening with Michigan farming?
"There are some really, really awesome things that are going on in Northern Michigan. I'm a part of the Northern Michigan Small Farms Conference. They do sustainable farming, and there's a farmer up there called Paul May-he's up in Frankfort, Michigan-and he started this really cool system where he gets these barren plots of land, takes it over and he splits it up into 52 sections. In the first section he lets cows go in and graze, and then the chickens come in, and then the pigs come in and root up the soil, BOOM, now you've got refreshed land to farm in."
What are some difficulties with Michigan farming, besides of course the weather?
"The hardest part has been sourcing things because when you run a restaurant, you go to a small farmer, say a chicken farm, and I get all geeked up and say, 'Oh yeah, I want to put your chickens on the menu.' And so they go 'Okay, how many do you want?' and I say, 'Can you give me 50 a week?' You never hear from them again. So I've kinda changed my approach when it comes to this. Now it's, 'Well, what can you give me? What can you supply me with?' So I might not put that particular farm on my menu if they can't produce what I need, but I'll use it as a special and say 'So-and-so's chicken' or 'Wordhouse Farms pork tenderloin' if I only have a short supply."
What's the concept behind Toasted Oak?
"The idea of Zingerman's Deli is actually part of what I wanted to do-I wanted to bring that concept here with the deli cases and things. I ran a fine dining restaurant for many years and I realized that fine dining is kind of dead. It's got its place out there but you can't survive on just fine dining."
What's the vibe at your restaurant?
"The guests want that chef-that white coat [as he grabs his own white jacket]-walking out and talking. So I encourage all my cooks and sous chefs to know our guests and our customers."
I hear you're going to the James Beard House in New York, the fancy foodie HQ that invites rising star chefs to cook for the NYC food world. What's on the menu?
"I cook Michigan, and that's exactly what I call my menu for James Beard, 'I cook Michigan.' I'm taking farm raised products, Michigan wines and I've actually found a Michigan distillery that makes whiskey, New Holland. The hand-crafted, smaller products are always much more fun because they're so in demand."
What's it like to do business in Detroit? What's the secret to success here?
"People expect quality no matter what you're doing. Detroit, we're the Motor City, so whether it's a quality car product, a quality food product or whatnot, people want value and they want quality and that's what I like to produce." When his restaurant won two two Best of Detroit awards from Hour Magazine, "It's not restaurant of the year where a food critic comes in and says you're restaurant of the year, it's my guests, the people sitting in these seats, that say it. So that's a really cool honor."
What other restaurants in the city are doing great things?
"Downtown they've got some really cool places that have built reputations. Whether it's in the big casinos, places like Roast or Saltwater or Iridescence, those are your higher-end restaurants. But you've also got Slows BarBQ, this tiny little barbecue joint."
When I was in Chicago, a woman from Detroit told me to try a Coney dog. What the heck is that?
"One of the things I'm taking on my James Beard menu is my version of a Coney dog because New Yorkers think they invented the Coney dog because of Coney Island. Actually, it was invented here in Jackson, Michigan. It's a Vienna all-beef frank, and there's a chili that goes on top made from beef hearts and beef liver. That's a Coney dog, but the Michigan dog is the same Vienna all-beef hot dog, the Coney sauce that goes over top of it and then two strips of yellow mustard and chopped onions."
After spending your whole life in Michigan, and as a small business owner, do you still believe in Detroit?
"It takes a certain type of person. You met that person out in Chicago who told you about Coney dogs, and I bet she was proud to say she's from Detroit. My sister lives out in Colorado Springs but she sports the Detroit Tigers cap with the D on it. She's proud to be from here. I think us as Detroiters, we've been through-it's just like that car commercial-we've been through hell and back. Those of us that were born and raised here, we really believe in what we do. We want to stay here, which is why I buy local. I want to keep my money in Michigan."
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Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Al Schrader Jun 9th 2011 7:18PM
Those younger chefs have a few interesting new ideas, but don't compare to the experienced masters...Alfie-
jaguar8450 Jun 9th 2011 8:12PM
The writers statement: "he's calling in favors from as many as he can at his year-old restaurant Toasted Oak in Novi, a growing, mostly white town halfway between Ann Arbor and downtown Detroit."
What exactly do you mean by saying inyour article "mostly white town."
steve Jun 9th 2011 9:45PM
What does he mean by "MOSTLY" ?? closer to 99.99 %
Katie Jun 10th 2011 12:06AM
What does "mostly white" have to do with the restaurant? I am a white woman married to a man of arabic descent. We recently moved to Novi, and based upon that statement, I will never frequent that eatery. I found that statement to be very offensive, and it took away from the purpose of the article - to promote the chef and restaurant,.
ChumpMeat Jun 10th 2011 12:19AM
That meant the town is mostly white.
Jaguar8450 Jun 10th 2011 5:44AM
"Mostly White"
Seems that was totally unneccessary. What a d-i-c-k- for saying that in his article.
Diane Jun 13th 2011 3:14PM
Hey everyone, Please don't blame the Chef Grostick for the author's (Paul Brady) misstep in writing about Novi's racial composition. It had no relevance to the context of the article and certainly took the focus away from what was important - the place is really good.
I have really enjoyed the food there.
Daisy Mel Jun 9th 2011 8:31PM
What a great article. Being a born and raised Detroiter I can really appreciate his feelings for old Detroit. I have been in Las Vegas for 30 years, it doesn't really matter why. I will always be a Detroiter. The Tigers, Red wings and even our poor Lions. Sanders Hot Fudge and also the Coney Island Hot Dogs. I loved the article and from me if no one else THANK YOU.
maryRedwing
chanda Jun 9th 2011 9:34PM
I was wondering the same thing, what was the relevance of the "mostly white" comment. I read on, hoping to find the connection, but alas there wasn't one...
steve Jun 9th 2011 9:54PM
My question is this. WHAT does he mean about growing up here ? If he is really caring about Detroit, then why isn't he supporting it ? Why not help support the land reclamation attempts & urban farms IN Detroit ?
I grew up in Pontiac, 25 miles North, I DON'T profess to be a "Detroiter" as much as I have enjoyed her benefits over the years.
Lets get real, all this is is a 'fluff' piece for this guys restaurant. In NOVI for christs sake. A very affluent town west of the city by a few miles. Support the REAL Detroit Restaurants. BUY A REAL CONEY DOWNTOWN !
Gerald Jun 9th 2011 10:44PM
s/b 1/2way between Lansing (notAnnArbor) & Detroit on the C&O Railroad.
Novi means Stop "No 6" from Detroit.
Kate Jun 10th 2011 1:11PM
Ok....let's read the article again. The WRITER said Novi was 'mostly white'...not the chef. Also...the chef did NOT say he was from Detroit. He said he was born and raised in MICHIGAN. What he DID say was that people don't say: "let's go to Detroit to eat" because Detroit is not known to be a great culinary hub, like Chicago or San Francisco. Well...DUH....it's the MOTOR CITY. You can't be 'known' for everything, although Detroit has some great restaurants. I lived in the metro area of Detroit for over 30 years. I went to school in Michigan and then we were known for cars, great Motown music, and the Tigers. To be honest, I like Mexico town, Greek town with a LaFayette coney and a Vernor's gingerale now and then. Not exactly fine dining, but it is certainly 1st class Detroit cuisine.
ENRIQUE IGLESIAS Jun 12th 2011 11:40AM
Ah, yes! Vernois ginger ale; I remember when as a kid, we used to go down to the Vernois plant, which then was very close to the landing for the Bob a lo Boat, and there was a Popcorn stand where you could buy a nickle bag of popcorn and watch the boat go to the Island... Great fun, back in the day, the Hudson's thanksgiving parade; and all us kids used to go to Hundson's to see all the Christmas displays... It was our Disneyland at the time; what memories...
lvanove2 Jun 12th 2011 1:30PM
not sure if its what he ment but here in Mich you go to diffeternt towns for the kind of food you want like Greek town China town and so forth so he was probably saying thats the type of food you would get there
answriter Jun 12th 2011 8:29PM
Why does the author say Novi is a "mostly white" town? Is that some sort of way of saying: "It's safe to eat at this guy's place because there aren't many blacks in Novi?" If so, gosh, how charming.
Donnie Jun 12th 2011 2:01PM
Chef has a great personality - spoke to us at our table. Came across as very kind. The atmosphere, coupled with the food, created a very special dining experience for those of us at the table. Congrats to Chef Steven. BTW - I'm in Texas and had heard of Chef Steven before going to Michigan.
CMP Jun 12th 2011 2:15PM
Why do people think everyone who lives in Michigan lives in Detroit? Novi is not Detroit. I'm a proud Michigander - not a Detroiter. I follow the sports teams, love Vernors, and Faygo Red Pop. I go into the city for a game or show a couple times a year. I work there because my company moved there and I am forced to drive a 100 mile commute each work day while pretending to be happy to "support" the city with my tax dollars. I'm glad people chose to live there - but I am not a Detroiter and I do not feel any sort of guilt about not supporting it more than I do. I'm glad this chef is using local ingredients and helping the farms, orchards, and other MICHIGAN businesses that he does. Michigan is MUCH more than one city.
Michelle Jun 12th 2011 4:17PM
I live in MI, in St. Clair Shores NOT Detroit.. Why do people refer to everyone in MI from or in Detroit? That is an insult...
answriter Jun 12th 2011 9:18PM
It's rather sad to see these people take umbrage at the possibility that someone would think they were from Detroit, rather than groovy St. Clair Shores or whatever other exurb they think is so swell. Judging from the quality of these people's writing, their education system out there may not as hot as they think. In any case, the people who have faith in Detroit, and live and work there, have a lot more guts and class than those who just get the vapors at the accusations they might live in a city that...gasp!...actually has black people in it.