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Luang Prabang - 3 days in Laos
Luang Prabang is lush, quaint, and improbable. This magical town of butterflies and baguettes seems to exist on dreamlike terms - an island of civility in the savage jungle of Laos. Sometimes a pinch is justifiable to confirm the reality of it all. The green hills, gorgeous colonial buildings, and kind villagers all combine to form a thriving UNESCO heritage city that is Southeast Asia with the charming vestiges of a distant French occupation.
High in the clouds, Luang Prabang holds many treasures for the travelers willing to make the trip. Aromas from fresh bakeries mingle with the crisp mountain air along quiet streets lined with quaint guesthouses and colorful noodle stands. The easiest route to Luang Prabang is on a flight from Bangkok on Bangkok Airways, though domestic flights from Vientiane near the Thai border are also possible on Lao Airlines. Another popular route is by bus from Vientiane. A Laos visa can be obtained upon arrival and costs $35 for U.S. citizens.
Three days is barely enough time to take in the full experience of Luang Prabang, but if planned correctly, you will have time to ride elephants, swim in waterfalls, and take a lazy trip down the Mekong river.
Gallery: 3 days in Luang Prabang
Day 1 - Rent a bike and exploreArriving in Luang Prabang by plane from Bangkok or Vientiane feels like landing on another planet. Green and misty like Endor, I half expected to be whisked away to my guesthouse on a speeder bike. But no, you have two basic choices for transportation in Luang Prabang: tuk tuk or car. After arriving at your guesthouse in your chosen mode of transport, rent a bike and explore Luang Prabang. Daily bike rentals should cost no more than a few dollars. It is impossible to get irreparably lost in the small UNESCO Heritage city, and locals are happy to guide your exploratory whims. Discover gold roofed temples like Wat Xieng Thong, lazy stretches of the Mekong river, and guesthouses with brightly painted shutters that retain their 19th century colonial charm. Drop by an open air restaurant along the Mekong for some fresh noodle soup.
In the center of Luang Prabang is Phou Si hill. It affords majestic views of Luang Prabang and the surrounding valley. The trek up the hill passes a number of interesting features like a dark cave filled with statues, Buddha's footprint, and at the summit, the temple of That Chomsi.
After a day spent exploring, duck into Tamarind for a tasty and educational modern Lao meal. This small eatery is committed to providing authenticity, and their menu explains the finer points of Lao cuisine in an insightful manner. If you show up around 5:00pm and sit on the patio, then you will be treated to the echoing chants of monks from a nearby wat. Wash down the spicy dishes with an ice cold Beer Lao.
As far as lodging is concerned, Lotus Villa is a great somewhat inexpensive option with huge rooms, a lush courtyard, and a delicious breakfast. Guesthouses can assist with the logistics of all your adventures.
Day 2 - Elephants and a trip down the Mekong
The old name of the Laos, Lan Xang, means land of a million elephants. While the numbers have dwindled significantly since the age of the old kingdom over 500 years ago, many elephants still roam the dense forests of the countryside. On the Nam khan river outside of Luang Prabang is an elephant sanctuary called the Elephant Village. The scenic location in the misty hills provides a perfect place to interact with the pachyderms. You can ride an elephant down the river or even learn how to be a mahout - an elephant trainer. It is a fantastic experience and strolling down the river on a lumbering beast is memorable indeed.
Most of the elephants have been rescued from logging operations that threatened their lives. One of the resident elephants, Mae San, was given massive doses of ecstasy and amphetamines so that she would stay up all night and day logging. It seems the elephants are well cared for by the sanctuary, and tourism revenue keeps them well fed.

Upon return from your morning elephant adventure, head to the Mekong and enlist the service of a boatman to take you downstream to check out river life. Lao boatmen ply the rivers in long narrow boats, and the sights along the river include a whiskey village, river life, water buffaloes, and the Pak Ou caves if you have the time.
The Luang Prabang night market is a great final stop to any day. Stalls sell an assortment of offerings from opium pipes to crepes to snake whiskey. It is not a dull scene.
Day 3 - Morning alms, waterfalls, and bears in hammocks
In order to catch the morning alms, you will need to rise with the sun. At around 6am, orange cloaked monks take to the streets by the hundreds to collect morning offerings, or alms. They clutch small bowls that villagers fill with sticky rice, candy, gifts, and other offerings. If you stay at Lotus Villa or another guesthouse along the monks' path, then they can arrange mats and sticky rice for you to donate. They will also instruct you on the details of the procession so that you commit no major faux pas.
After the monks return to their wats, arrange a driver to take you to Kuang Si Falls. The waterfall complex includes a number of falls and ponds ideal for swimming, so bring your bathing suit. Be sure to try your hand at the rope swing at the blue natural pool near the entrance. If you are feeling brave, follow the "do not enter signs" to unearth a hidden natural infinity pool. Located at the top of the main falls, reaching the unbelievably cool hangout requires climbing a hill, snaking back around through the jungle, and finally pulling yourself up over a small waterfall. As you sit in the pool, overlooking the jungle beyond, you will be thankful that you found your way to this small paradisal enclave. It is one of the coolest spots on the planet. Ask around to get hints on the path.Near the entrance to Kuang Si Falls is an Asiatic black bear sanctuary and rescue center. Stop by to observe the marvelous creatures that are sadly a popular target of poachers. Most of the bears have been rescued, and they lounge around in hammocks, which is splendid indeed.
For dinner on your last evening, drop in to Blue Lagoon or L'Elephant. L'Elephant has one of the best French/Lao fusion kitchens in Luang Prabang. Both restaurants are smart bistros, and Blue Lagoon has an open courtyard teeming with tropical plants and romantic lighting.
Extras
If you have some extra time in the region, then a plethora of options exist. Mountain biking, kayaking, trekking, and visiting hill tribes are all popular possibilities. Also, if you are taking ground transport back to Vientiane, stop off in Vang Vieng for a few days. Here in the middle of Laos, thousands of backpackers visit each year to inter-tube down an especially lazy stretch of the Nam Song river. The river jaunt is serviced by many shoreline bars serving ice-cold beers, and the experience has become a rite of passage on the modern banana pancake trail.
All photography by Justin Delaney
Filed under: Arts and Culture, Food and Drink, Photos, Asia, Laos, Hotels and Accommodations, Ecotourism
















Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Kat Mar 24th 2011 12:42PM
I just recently received my LP Laos tourbook, but haven't started to read it yet (still reading Fodor's Austria to Salzburg to find out more about my own country *embarrassed*). I do not know, if I'll be traveling to Laos any time soon, but it is one of my choices for my 12-hour-away-from-my-timezone location (I know, I'm weird, I think we've already established this). Laos is very intriguing to me. Thank you for the post on The Land of the Million Elephants! :)
mikiewalker Apr 2nd 2011 9:15PM
you got balls ..putting this crap here . we lost 58,000 men there. my whole family was there my brother died there. those little scumbags wouldnt help us when we were on the run .they even sold our our men for a few bucks. and who ever wrote this is full of crap. its a shithole. and its the mekong delta where our men were cut up in peaces ....how come you dont say VIET NAM thats what its realy called.buy the way. if you go there .if you find a right LEG ITS MINE..
POW MIA Apr 2nd 2011 9:33PM
Well said Mike, the Laotian Gov't also relentlessly hunts the Hmong tribesman who chose democracy vice communsim during that conflict. Unfortunately, when the US and CIA pulled out of Laos we left them holding the bag and the country was overrun by North Vietnames and communist Pathet Lao. The Hmong have been pursued and hunted by Laotian troops, assisted by Vietnam (Communists hold huge grudges dating back to the French occupation of the area). I encourage people to look up "Hmong Tribesman" and read about their plight. The US Gov't will help Libyia who never did anything for the US, but continue to turn a blind eye to an old ally. Many more "attrocities" have been committed by Laos over the past 37 years than in Libyia over the past few months. President Obama did raise concern about the Hmong still being exterminated to the Gov't of Laos, but nothing panned out...no president since that war has gone to bat for a loyal people. Sad.
robrocket Apr 3rd 2011 9:10AM
MIKE is Right....
ANd We Salute you...and Thank you Mike...
Sorry you lost the Leg....Of course...The PRide and Honor you Deserve is Yours Forever..
Rocket
mark Apr 3rd 2011 5:55PM
thanks to you and your family for your service.
mikie walker Apr 3rd 2011 8:43PM
there is nothing there but a bunch of freeloaders. a man would sell his wife even his child for a day for $5.00 the beer was like piss and you didnt know who was charlie and who wasnt.in camboded we saw our boys bodys with no heads .they even stole from the dead .i lost a leg and we were told to be nice to them . nice my ass a buddy of mine went twenty feet to take a dump . when he didnt come back we went to look for him. we found his head aon a pole and his body was gone.thats how it was and still is in NAM mikie
POWMIA Apr 2nd 2011 9:13PM
Remember, Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world, over half the bombs dropped in Vietnam were actually done in Laos. The result; tons of unexploded ordinance, its very dangerous to veer off trails that have not been cleared, this still kills hundreds of locals every year over there. Look up "Plain of Jars" as an example.
Also, this gov't is poor, so corruption is common. Laos is still holding US serviceman captive from the Vietnam War (held by the Pathet Lao), the politicians in Washington never negotiated for them at the end of the Vietnam War since they denied operations in Laos for so many years.
Bottom line: Laos has two faces, one with beatiful scenery and encouraging growth, the other trying to recover from a brutal past and still clinging to communist ideals.
Askel Apr 2nd 2011 11:34PM
Well said.
ted Apr 3rd 2011 12:14PM
bring a snake bite kit!
Ramona Apr 2nd 2011 9:48PM
Hi! Wow! What can I say except the pictures of Luang Prabang is beautiful.
bassman Apr 24th 2011 10:12PM
thank you for your service mikiewalker.
bassman
RobbieK Apr 3rd 2011 12:52AM
I wonder if any of these tourists came across any of the skeletons of U.S. Service members lost in the jungles of Laos? My brother's friend, Larry Robinson, is still MIA in Laos, his F4 Phantom shot down by the Communists. Laos tucked it's tail between it's legs during the Vietnam conflict and supported the Communists. Liberal article here. But when you think the world exists without borders, this is the type of articles you publish.
Chuck Simmers Apr 3rd 2011 2:39AM
Bet that guy jumping in the water came out covered in leaches sucking the blood out of him! Visit Thailand, or Cambodia. Much, much more to see and do. The ruins at Angkor Wat Cambodia rival the Egyptian Pyramids, and Thailand people love Americans!!!
John Apr 3rd 2011 4:29AM
If you go thee make sure you have a guide you can trust. You should also try to find out wwhat the Political Climate is as you are leaving home for the airport. You could get there and not get back. As for the Vietnam War the U.S. Troops on the ground were nto supposed to go into Laos but the Air Force and our Helicopters and Gunships did supply help to our Viet Allies when they tried to close down the Ho Chi Minh Trail with operations into Laos, to cut off the supply lines to the North. You can read about this by looking it up. And Yes there was a lot of unexploded ordinance dropped on the country. Women and kids keep finding it every year and dieing as a result of it. There are a lot of other problems there so you travel at your own risk, Just ask the State Department. There are thousands of soldiers still missing from the Vietnam War. Some may still be in prisons but aremost likely dead by now. They couldn't possibly have lived through the kind of torture John MCCain endured in a few short years compared to what would now be 45 plus years for some.
Marilyn Apr 3rd 2011 1:14PM
We lived there 1971-1973 in Vientiane, Laos. No bridge over Mekong to Thiland only poor little boats. Went to Luan Prabang in March "73 after the cease fire. Area littered with bomb craters and the airport hangars roofs shattered. We did climb the hill to see the King's palace. Amazing to learn that Laos has tourists freely moving about. And you can fly from Bangkok and Vientiane. Would not have dreamed of that happening.
Marilyn Apr 3rd 2011 1:25PM
I lived in Vientiane, Laos 1971-1973. No bridge from Taduea to NongKhai, Thialand. Went to Luang Prabang in March '73 after the cease fire. Lots of bomb craters and airport buildings had shattered roofs. We did climb the hill to see the King's palace. Amazing to know that tourists travel freely and there are hotels etc. Vientiane had 2 small hotels, one even had an elevator !
sunchld0 Apr 3rd 2011 1:36PM
I can't believe the negative comments about this travel article. Can't we just leave the politics out of it? This just illustrates the increasingly polarization of the United States. This is not the America I once knew.
sofia Jul 14th 2011 5:21AM
This is an article about traveling not politics. For the man who serve our country, thank you but honestly your comment was not necessary unless it was about the war. What's so wrong about this man writing an article about traveling to Laos? Also, I'm an Asian-American born and raise, heritage Laotion, I feel highly offended when you said that Laotion men would sell there woman and child and that Laotions are a bunch of freeloaders. So are you trying to categorize that to all Laotion? If so, you are highly bias. Maybe during that time but times has change, people may be different from what it was then than now. I'm sorry for what you been through and honor your service, but you have no right telling someone that there a shit hole etc. To the guy in the article, I hope you had a wonderful time and I would like to visit there soon which probably will be so since I have family in Vientiane.