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Coming face to face with history in Hiroshima, Japan
Hiroshima.Just saying the name can often evoke a strong emotion or reaction. When I told people I intended to visit Hiroshima on my Japan trip, the response was usually the same.
"Why would you want to visit there?" my friends asked.
"Why not?" I quipped. "The city is home to one of the most epochal events in modern history!"
Despite the admonishments and the bitter winter temperatures, I now stand before it -- Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. There are no children playing, only a few tourists snapping photos nearby. The neatly manicured grounds seem to merely provide a cover for the somber history located here.
The clouds part, allowing sunlight to stream through the crumbling walls and cragged ruins of the A-Bomb Dome, regarded as one of the most recognizable remnants from World War II.
Located a mere two blocks away sits a nondescript gray and blue tile building with only three Japanese characters at the top and a small plaque on the side that reads "Hypocenter". As we approach, we spot a group of local Japanese surrounding the plaque, deep in conversation. Not wanting to intrude, we wait quietly behind, but their guide stops talking and motions for us to approach.
Switching from Japanese to English, she exclaims, "Please join us! I will share with you about the Hypocenter."
Almost seemingly out of nowhere emerges an older Japanese man from the group. He is well-dressed, looks to be in his early 60's, and has the most charming and inviting smile.
He walks over to us and asks, "Where are you from?"
I stutter and stammer, finally managing to answer, "The United States."
Much like the rest of the group, he warmly welcomes us to Hiroshima. He begins sharing interesting details, details not regurgitated from any tour guide prompt. Instantly, I realize we are reliving this horrific event through his eyes -- the eyes of an atom bomb survivor. Obviously not as young as he appears, the man tells a chilling account of the events that took place on August 6, 1945.
He was just a kid living less than two miles from the hypocenter. His father and brother worked right across the small alleyway, just feet from where we now stood. After the bomb was dropped, he rushed to the hypocenter to search for them, but was met only with a sea of death and destruction. Bodies were strewn everywhere and it was impossible to find anyone or anything -- including his brother and father, who, he ultimately learned, had perished in the blast.
Talking to this man was the chance to live an important piece of world history -- something that no high school or college textbook could've ever prepared me for. His words were filled with emotion and pain, yet he never uttered a negative sentiment. Although tragic, he seemed almost accepting of those day's events. "Ultimately," he said, "no matter where we are from, we both have the same goal -- to live in peace."
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Sharon Mar 4th 2011 3:02PM
My experience in Hiroshima was similar. I was terrified that I would be defined by where I'm from and the reaction people would have hearing that I'm from the US... but everyone there seemed to be excited to share with me, speak with me about everything. Children came up and gave me paper cranes laughing and practicing their English, elders wanted to share their experiences, everything. The entire trip was extremely powerful. Thanks for the share!
Liliana Mar 7th 2011 11:57PM
I was there more than 15 years ago, and I still have such a clear image of the place and the emotions that I felt that day. It was such a touched experience with mixed feelings.
The older brother of my mom was a survivor, he passed away a couple of years ago; we knew several stories and how the situation was back then because of him. I guess that's why somehow we felt attached to Hiroshima in some way.
Visiting the museum was such a strong experience; I think I dropped a few tears, and I don't cry that easy.
Thank you Erin for posting this.
Yann@hiroshimasafari Sep 24th 2012 9:00PM
Hi, even in 2012, most of people still think ""Why would you want to visit there?".
I fight everyday to break this stereotype about my city !
So follow me during an Hiroshima Safariv and you will see the famous A-Bomb Dome and the Castle of the carp from a photogenic perspective, but also immerse yourselves in the city, going from places steeped in History, islands of greenery , ones of the best temples of Japan, and the common places where the locals live their everyday life. It will enlighten you about Japanese society and culture.
You will get off the beaten tracks and explore the island of Miyajima, venture into alleys, passages and temples underestimated by the “regular” tourists and finish your visit in front of the famous Torii. Succumb to the charm of secret places hidden in the Japanese countryside which happens to be a real summary of Japan.
You will also enjoy the local night life, tasting one of the best okonomiyaki of Hiroshima in a typical atmosphere. You will admire the panorama offering a fantastic view of Hiroshima and its islands before tasting some delicious udons in a Japanese ‘canteen’, you will support the Carp 's local baseball team ....
Hiroshma is a city with it's own specificities and it's not only the dome...
Thanks.