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Medellin then and now
Medellin, Colombia isn't the way it used to be. Once known for its drug cartels and their inordinately vengeful wars that regularly victimized citizens of the city as well as travelers, Medellin has gone under, well, the knife, in more ways than one. The city's makeover has made tourists from across the globe feel more welcomed and has brought peace to locals who know what it was like back then. 'Back then', a phrase Colombians don't use lightly, but do use frequently. Since Escobar's reign of terror, Medellin has reclaimed itself and is now better prepared than ever to brave what's to come.No one would have considered Medellin a tourist destination 10 years ago. It simply wasn't. Hundreds of lives a month were being lost in the city at the hand of relentless drug wars then and the city was dubbed 'The Most Violent City in The World'. The city sculpted into the Andes was avoided by travelers, and for good reason. Locals at the time could barely call Medellin a home and many were being driven away from their houses, encumbered by fear, and forced into Witness Protection programs or other forms of hiding because they 'knew too much'. With the waters being so treacherous for locals, foreigners felt even less at ease and found themselves targets in the unforgiving battles for territory taking place, battles headed up by drug-lords who had more sway than city officials back then. When Escobar was killed in 1993 (or when he killed himself, reports vary) and the two drug-lords that stepped up in his place, leaders of the Cali Cartel, were finally brought down, Medellin's districts were ceded with this trio's vanishing and the city needed an emergency recovery plan. That plan has helped make Medellin traversable today.
Medellin's makeover began within. City officials rallied and conjured up support from nations far and wide, raking in investment money for the city chunk by chunk. Citizens bound together and formed a bit of a union, a promise to rebuild their city and keep out the bad. They joined forces while unblinkingly awaiting the support that eventually came from around the globe. With foreign aid, a devoted community, and a powerful drug-lord out of the way, the city had promise and the building was underway.
During a recent trip to Medellin, I walked through places that were monumental in the city's development.
Gallery: Medellin Now
And the plan seems to be working. Babies born into these neighborhoods become children who frequent the library with their parents or teachers and those children become industrious teens who attend high schools that have perks, like running water in some cases, that they never saw at home. These teens, of course, become better-rounded individuals more capable of considering the colorful expanse of possibilities for their future.
In a further attempt to improve this area of the city highly affected by the pain of the past, Medellin installed its metro system in such a way that it runs straight through this same district. The city's subway isn't too unlike the subway system in New York City. Trains arrive at and depart from even cleaner stations (no eating on the metro in Medellin) and commuters flip through their iPods and books while eyeing the bright advertisements in their peripheral. What's unlike New York City is the cable car portion of the metro system.
These cars ascend into the clouds that roll off the Andes. They are pulled gently and at such an elevation, it's not difficult to see what those investing in Medellin see: a beautiful sprawling city tucked into a lush valley, hungry for the chance it deserves. For just 70 cents, passengers are slowly raised up the mountainside. The ride is serene and the to-be destination on the top of the hill is even better: a massive city park that will eventually be available to everyone for hiking, camping, and other outdoor recreational activities. But for now the cable cars provide opportunities for those living on the hills beneath. The opportunities provided? Jobs mainly.
Without proper roads or means to travel on those roads even if they did exist, many people born into these neighborhoods have found themselves a part of a cyclical depression, one that carries over from generation to generation. The cable cars have made it possible for employable residents of this area to not only find work throughout the city, but to actually mobilize.
The dedication to Medellin extends beyond cleaning up dirty neighborhoods. The campaign, in fact, has been widespread. From the loft-like Brooklyn-esque Medellin Museum of Modern Art to the towering Botanical Gardens, the city truly survived a nightmare with the power of a dream.
I attended the annual Christmas lighting ceremony--a celebration that unites the city with the holiday spirit. I watched as locals enjoyed the fantastic displays of light and water and I couldn't help but suspect the locals were cheering for something far beyond the engineering of man-the potential of man. And if any city ever had potential, it's this one.
Although Medellin's crime rate decreased steadily in the years following Escobar's fall, it should be noted that the crime rate has been on the rise again in more recent years. But before you rethink your Colombia travel plans, consider this: Medellin has dealt with worse. From abject misery to widespread hope, Medellin is better equipped this time around.
A good traveler is one who is always aware of his or her surroundings, and if you're a traveler in Medellin, you need to be a good one. Follow the obvious rules of travel (don't travel alone, don't travel into dangerous neighborhoods, be weary of traveling at night, don't carry valuables you can't afford to lose with you, etc.) and you should be fine in Medellin.
And remember: the more support Medellin has, the better it will do. Already triumphant in its plan to take back the city, imagine the lasting transformation that will be cemented with increased support from travelers everywhere. When all is said and done, Medellin gives me hope for Mexico.
Filed under: History, Learning, Photos, Stories, South America, Colombia, Consumer Activism












Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Fiona Old Jan 11th 2011 3:55PM
Pecados De Mi Padre starring Sebastian Marroquin was shown at the Vancouver Film Festival. His contribution to change seems to be making a difference, but what are the best ways to work from outside the country of Columbia. He is still in exile I believe.
Fiona
http://vancouvershoppingbyappointment.com
Amused Jan 13th 2011 4:32PM
Sounds like a little ad from the Colombian Tourist Board. Yeah, miraculously the Colombian peasants have all stopped producing cocaine and are now selling sun block and bottles of Evian.
Elizabeth Jan 13th 2011 4:36PM
Hey Amused--
I definitely didn't love Medellin through and through (had my camera stolen, for one, which is why I made the notes in the bottom of the article about the crime rate's increase and the need to stay careful there), but from the understanding I have from other Colombians, it's still not nearly as bad as it used to be. Do you have another insight, a story of your own with Medellin, etc?
Elizabeth
jimbo Jan 13th 2011 7:31PM
Elizabeth--the "writer"---is a no talent marionette.
Pfp Jan 28th 2011 8:16AM
I have worked in MDE since 1994 and I live in MDE. Good article and it is no different than any other big city. Have street smarts and the best thing about MDE is the incredibly warm people.
John H Jan 13th 2011 5:50PM
What an asshole this amused guy/girl is. I bet good money he/she has never been to Colombia with it lovely people 1000 times happier then USA counterparts. I have been all over Medellin for the last two years by my self and in a 100k car and have never had a glance from a criminal. This is one US citizen i will be happy to see in a US soup line in the next 6 years.
Annette Jan 13th 2011 6:27PM
I'm just curious, why you are such a bitter man, and so anti-American. I'm happy for you with the expensive wheels...but wonder if deep down, there's a lot of unhappiness. Be happy for the people of Columbia, I am, but no need for sarcasm.
Stephanie Jan 13th 2011 7:15PM
Lol commentor John is not anti-american, he's anti "Amused"...As we all should be. As Americans, we should be embarassed of the likes of "Amused". People like that are the reason the rest of the world criticizes us for being so full of sh*t. So, so ignorant and probably hasnt even traveled beyond the U.S. I have traveled a lot, but never to Colombia. I sure have heard a lot of negative things about Colombia and its peoples. But i dont fall victim to ignorance like "Amused". I believe there are good and bad people in every part of the world. And I do hope to visit Colombia one day. And should I fall victim to a crime there, I would not come home complaining about what a bunch of criminals they all are. You cant hold a nation accountable for the actions of the ignorant.
CAV44 Jan 13th 2011 7:32PM
The Colombian government probably cut a deal with the drug cartels and relocated them all to Mexico.......from the looks of things.
Tee33 Jan 14th 2011 4:37PM
I agree... Mexico is turning into Colombia in the 80s. Sad really :(
Sheridan Jan 14th 2011 3:17PM
I visited Colombia twice last year. Medallin is fabulous! The city is beautiful. The people of Colombia are some of the friendliest I have met in the world. I highly recommend it!
lando Jan 15th 2011 10:18AM
Hello people,
I am american "from NYC and Miami "and have been traveling to colombia on a regular since 2004. I had a girlfriend and now good friends there. I Must say Medellin Colombia is a amazing place , first the people are some of the nicest you will ever meet.The service is great, Note i do travel the world" . Thank God I never had any issues with anyone and i go on a regular, but i do caution just like i will caution in any city or country . Travel not alone , dont show off and always walk with someone of trust. Colombia is a great country, i have been to many cities and the people and government are really working on making things better and better . I have noticed more and more people from all over and have noticed a increase in investors , so my friends Colombia i recommend to anyone as long as you use caution like you would in any city. America i love you , but we must continue to get better because we have fallen behind.
Capitan Justicia Jan 15th 2011 6:23PM
Medellin and Colombia are a potential paradise!! I've been to Colombia many times and nowhere do I feel happier. The people, the scenery, the food, the music, climates, etc. Whenever I feel bored or depressed here in the States, I just close my eyes and remember being in Colombia and it always cheers me up. These ignorant rednecks who make disparaging comments about Colombia probably can't even locate it on a map!
Margaret Jan 17th 2011 2:23PM
I was in Colombia in 1989 - during its darkest period by most accounts. I had a special pass on Avianca (Colombia's national airline) which allowed me to go anywhere in Colombia for a flat rate for a month. I went to Bogota, Cali, Cartagena and Medellin. I was a bit intimidated by the perceived danger of Medellin so I reluctantly only spent a day there. I found it to be the most beautiful city I'd ever seen. I loved the rest of Colombia, but this article and the comments have encouraged me to go back and re-explore it, especially Medellin.
Jon Jan 25th 2011 2:24PM
Really interesting article. I have a friend who's lived in Medellin for the last year and a half and is quite protective of the place - while being aware of its obvious downsides:
http://vidalondon.net/2011/01/18/is-colombia-safe/
Pfp Jan 27th 2011 1:03PM
We create the market.
john h Feb 13th 2011 10:22AM
Actually I am the most joyful man you don't know. The US has sold its citizens down the river without a paddle and I am defending my love; Colombia.
P.S. If you are going to criticize someone online its best you learn to spell first...
Freddy Gaviria Feb 25th 2011 6:51PM
Thanks for believing in Medellin.
We support medellin for 2018 Youth Olympic Games
www.medellin2018.blogspot.com