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York: capital of England's north
So far my journey through Yorkshire has been one of small towns and moorlands, yet the most popular destination in Yorkshire is the city that gives the shire its name--York. No trip to the north of England would be complete without checking out this historic city.A brief look at York's long history
Like many English cities, York's origins are lost in prehistory. It's first recorded in the late first century AD as the Roman city of Eboracum. It became an important trading center and it was here that the legions proclaimed Constantine emperor before he went on to convert the empire to Christianity. Some of the original city walls can still be seen.
After the Roman legions left around 410 AD, York remained a political and religious center under the Angles until the Vikings took it over in 866. Contrary to popular opinion, the Vikings weren't all seafaring raiders. In England they came to settle, once they got their fill of looting and burning that is. Known as Jórvik, it became one of the biggest cities in the Viking world. In the Middle Ages its economic and religious influence continued to grow and it remains one of the biggest cities in the north of England today. The Yorkshire Museum gives a good rundown of the city's history.
Five things to do in York
1. Visit the Minster. York's cathedral is a masterpiece of medieval architecture. The minster is one of the most grandiose cathedrals built in the Middle Ages. Much of it dates to the 13th century but there are some older and newer bits as well. Soaring Gothic architecture, weird gargoyles, and beautiful stained glass windows make this a place you can stare at for hours.
2. Wander the streets. York's medieval center still retains some of its historic charm. Many of the buildings are hundreds of years old, and the winding little streets give you a feel for past times, minus the Black Death and open sewers. Keep a sharp eye out for carved wooden figures that used to act as neighborhood signs in the days when most people were illiterate.
3. Vikings! The Jorvik Viking Centre is one of the most popular attractions in northern England. Set atop an archaeological excavation of the Viking city, you can see foundations of Viking buildings under a glass floor before hopping on a ride that takes you through a village of animatronic Vikings. No, I'm not kidding, and it's as silly as it sounds. Anyone over ten will probably feel a little embarrassed by the whole show and leave knowing only slightly more about the Vikings than when they arrived. Your kids will love it, though, especially when they spot the constipated Viking groaning in the outhouse.
Gallery: York
5. Visit the Merchant Adventurers' Hall. Medieval churches and streets are a dime a dozen here in historic Europe, but how often do you get to see a medieval guildhall? As international commerce rose in the late Middle Ages, trade guilds became more important. Eventually their power displaced rivaled even the king's and led to the capitalist society we have today. Merchants have been meeting in this timber-framed mansion for 650 years to plan voyages and explore new trade routes. On display are some of the treasures they brought back, as well as a letter to Henry VIII complaining that one of their ships got attacked by pirates!
There's also a beautifully preserved Norman castle with a grim history. I'll be talking about that in my next post in the series--Castles of Yorkshire.
Shopping in York
York's labyrinthine streets are filled with shops selling everything from local produce (I highly recommend the cheese) to toys and fashion. It's hard to give a breakdown of all there is to buy, since pretty much everything is available. Visit York has a good online shopping guide where you can search by subject. One thing I noticed was that it has one of the biggest selections of used and antiquarian bookshops of any English town I've visited. There are plenty of antique shops too, but they're only for those with a healthy bank account.
Drinking and Dining in York
There's no shortage of good eats in Yorkshire. Once again Visit York has a good online guide. My favorite was Bettys Cafe Tea Rooms, which for almost a century has been serving up great tea, scones, and desserts in elegant Art Deco surroundings. It's usually packed, though, so be prepared to wait in line. They have a shop too. York has a large number of restaurants for all budgets and there's a good selection of pubs serving Yorkshire real ales. I recommend Mars Magic by Wold Top Brewery and Black Sheep Ale by Black Sheep Brewery. Both are dark, rich, full beers that make your average lager look and taste thinner than air.
Pluses and minuses
York is a great destination for shopping, dining, and sightseeing, but try to go off-season. The city center is incredibly crowded during the summer, and most weekends no matter what the time of year. This is one of the most touristy spots in England, and lacking the hugeness of London it can feel a bit cramped. It's still well worth a visit, though.
So if you're traveling through England's north, don't skip its greatest city!
Don't miss the rest of my series on Exploring Yorkshire: ghosts, castles, and literature in England's north.
Coming up next: The castles of Yorkshire!
This trip was sponsored by VisitEngland and Welcome to Yorkshire.
Filed under: Arts and Culture, History, Learning, Europe, United Kingdom













Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Crissy Oct 20th 2010 7:56AM
York is also the most haunted city on the world. I would take a ghost tour, I would avoid the cheesy ones, but it will give another view of the city.
Sean McLachlan Oct 20th 2010 8:47AM
I took one of the ghost tours, but unfortunately it was one of the cheesy ones. Check out an earlier post in this series for some other ghostly goings on.
Denise Oct 24th 2010 2:42PM
LOL I was thinking of the ghost tour when I read this. We did an evening ghost tour and had a wonderful guide. I am not quite sold on the ghosts but I really enjoyed the history that I learned and the chance to walk around the city at night.
Pt Oct 24th 2010 6:03PM
OK Crissy sounds like fun,thanks for the Info...
Denise Oct 24th 2010 2:45PM
I have to agree with the author in regards to the Viking Center. I had two high school boys that basically made fun of it the entire time. Still the city is amazing and we found tons of other things to make up for it. I loved the walls and walking in the minster. Oh and seeing tiny streets with long names (what a street!!) :-)
Arthur Greebler Oct 24th 2010 4:36PM
Wasn't York the site of the mass suicide by Jews who took refuge after being
threatened by the inhabitants. They took their own lives rather than convert.
This happened some time ago.
Cindy Oct 24th 2010 4:38PM
I'm so glad that Betty's Tea House was included in this article. I still have dreams of Fat Rascals and Earl Grey Tea from Betty's - yummmm. Also, ghost hunters might find the Black Swan Tavern interesting as well. York is a wonderful, cultural city. I can't imagine anyone being disappointed after a visit there.
Karl Andrews Oct 24th 2010 4:50PM
How can you ignore the fabulous National Railway Museum in York adjacent to the train station? One of the finest collections of railway rolling stock and artifacts in the world!
Mary Oct 24th 2010 6:59PM
We were in England in '91 or '92 and originally planned an overnight stay in York. The city was just so charming and lovely we stayed 3 nights and 4 days before taking the train to Bath. We were there in early December and just didn't mind the cold...so much to see and yet the city is small enough to really enjoy its rich history and leave you rested and wanting more! We stayed in a lovely Bed & Breakfast overlooking the river... to this day, I still can vivdly see all the sights and feel the warmth of this city. If you get to England, this is a must stop.
RexOfSB Oct 24th 2010 7:27PM
Was the space heater from York? Why was the space heater in a place it could get run over by a car? Was it a British car?
John Oct 24th 2010 7:31PM
I really want to see York. The depths of history of that region is truly amazing, especially to this middle aged central Ohio teacher.
Hattie Crabtree Oct 24th 2010 7:35PM
I think I've been here but gotta ask the hubby.I went here 33 years ago with my Mom and cousin.
Shindig Oct 24th 2010 7:39PM
Wow. Great review. When I went I was the only non middle easterner there; and they were residents!
Mallenroh Oct 24th 2010 7:57PM
I visited York last year, during their easter street fair, it was so much fun and such a charming little town, I loved being able to walk everywhere and the vendors were so much fun and so creative, best shopping ever!!!
I also went on one of the ghost walks but mine was a real good one w/this guy who was so over the top and had this ridiculous evil laugh but the tour was awesome, he took us down all sorts of side alleys and back courtyards and I got some really freaky pics too
George Oct 24th 2010 8:10PM
A fascinating city w/ an extraordinary cathedral. We paid one pound to "own" the cathedral for one minute. If I were rich, I would have cleared the place out for an hour and just reveled in the experience.
Go north from York. Visit Hadrian's Wall and Durham.And then pour into Scotland...well worth a visit. The Scots are lively and the countryside, raw and stimulating.
TRIPLEDAWG3 Oct 24th 2010 8:09PM
ARTHUR GREEBLER WHO REALLY CARES IF IT WAS ARE WAS NOT....