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Himalayan High: Everest Base Camp
Of course, a major part of that excitement stems from the fact that in order to reach Gorakshep, you have to spend at least six days hiking through the Khumbu Valley. It isn't exactly an easy walk either, with thin air and major gains in altitude conspiring to sap the energy from your legs and challenge your lungs to take a full breath. But, you are bolstered by the thought that your ultimate goal is very close now, and it won't be long before you stand in the very shadow of the tallest mountain on the planet.
The trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp isn't an especially long one in terms of distance. It is, however, a tough scramble through a rock field created from the loose scree being pushed down the valley by the Khumbu Glacier. For the entirety of the hike, you'll actually be walking on the glacier itself, but for the most part you won't even notice, as the trail is covered in multiple layers of rock and dirt. Those conditions, combined with the increasingly thinning air, make the last few hours up to BC a tough slog that will leave your already tired legs aching even more.
Over the course of those final hours on the hike up to Base Camp, I noticed that the winds had started to pick up considerably, and for the first time, I was in need of my warmer clothes. Many members of my trekking group had donned multiple layers a few days back while at lower altitudes, but for the most part, I was fine with my lighter gear even as we climbed. On that day however, I had donned my base layers and wore a heavy fleece for the final approach to BC, which was made all the more challenging thanks to the chilly, constant breezes that kicked up dust, making it even more difficult to breathe. Not long after departing Gorakshep we caught a glimpse of what makes climbing Everest so potentially dangerous. As we walked, we could hear various rumbling noises, sometimes high on the slopes above us, sometimes coming from somewhere below us, out on the glacier. The noises were a bit unnerving at first and those feeling only got worse once we caught a glimpse of what was making them.
The first avalanche we saw was not far from Base Camp, on the far side of the Khumbu Icefall, and it swept down the mountain with a force and a fury that only nature can muster. We would see no less than three more avalanches over the course of the next few hours, and we heard plenty more on the mountains around us. Meanwhile, down below, out on the glacier, large chunks of ice were collapsing under their own weight, making it abundantly clear to everyone passing by exactly why the icefall is considered the most dangerous place on Everest.
Throughout the afternoon, Base Camp is visible up the valley, and you can see it from a long way off. But for quite awhile, it feels like it isn't getting any closer, no matter how far you walk. Your lungs gasp for air, your legs burn, you're exhausted from the climb, and it can be a bit disheartening at times to see how far off the camp remains. But eventually, you top a ridge and it appears at long last, and you find yourself scrambling up the last rocky portion of the trail to stand at your ultimate destination.
Finally reaching BC gives you a sense of relief, satisfaction, and exhilaration all at the same time. For many of us who made the trek, visiting Everest was a dream come true, and while we were "only" at 17,600 feet, it is probably as close to the summit as we'll ever come. The actual "camp" can be a bit anti-climactic if you see ht location as just a destination to add to your list, but when you take in the whole experience, you'll understand that an Everest Base Camp trek is more than the sum of its parts.
Sitting there looking up at the mountain, I couldn't think of any place I'd rather be. Sure, the hike is a challenging one and for a lowlander like me, it was difficult to breathe at times, but the view is definitely worth the walk. If you should ever make the trip for yourself, make sure you take time to sit back and take it all in. There are few places on the planet that can match the view.
Next: The Journey Back Down
Filed under: Arts and Culture, Hiking, Asia, Nepal













Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
seaeun Jun 15th 2010 2:20PM
Ahh!! making the trek in October and I cannot wait. Thanks for the writeup and the vid clips!!!
Kraig Jun 15th 2010 2:21PM
No problem. Glad you're enjoying the story thus far. Even though I've written about Base Camp, there is still more to come. :)
Mt.yetti Jun 15th 2010 6:38PM
Great Job, Getting in conditioning now to potentially do in May 2011.
Turning 60 still in good shape and figured I better to it while I still can!!!
Have summitted Mt. Rainier, Mt Baker, Mt Adams Mt. Hood and Mt Shasta when I was much younger in my 40's so I hope I'm still up to it. How much and what did you do to train?
Thanks for taking the time to share your story and pictures
Kraig Jun 15th 2010 6:42PM
Mt. Yetti: I'm an avid runner, I run nearly every day, so my cardio was good before I started training. But in order to get ready for the BC Trek I also started running hills. Lots and lots of big hills. And that payed off in spades when I was there. It made some of the big climbs much easier.
Also, I'd recommend hiking on actual trails when you can, wearing a backpack. It'll help you to get use to having gear on your back. Also, if you intend to use trekking poles, and I recommend that you do, get use to using them before you go.
While the trek was indeed a challenge, I was amongst the best prepared in my group, and it proved to be well worth it in the long run. I didn't suffer nearly as much as most of the group did. :)
sue Jun 15th 2010 6:42PM
What is the best month to do the BC trek??
Kraig Jun 15th 2010 6:45PM
Sue: The best times to go are April/May and October/November. Definitely avoid the summer months, June-August, as the monsoon can play havoc with your trip. Obviously it's also VERY cold in the winter months as well.
Nabaraj Thapa Jun 20th 2010 2:04AM
Glad to read about base camp. I know it's a great place of Himalaya.
lori w. Jun 22nd 2010 7:58AM
I have always found great facination with Everest...it has an element of mystical greatness, and I always dreamed of just getting to base camp...is this something that is expensive? Do you need permission to do this? Can the average person go for his dream ..ty for the fantastic pictures, I can only imagine the greatness you took in.....
kraig Jun 22nd 2010 9:50AM
Hi Lori,
Yes, this is indeed a trip that the average person can do, you just need determination and a bit of dedication. Preparing for the trip ahead of time with some hiking/running, and being in shape helps a lot, but isn't the only thing that will get you there.
The trip can be done on a modest budget, although airfare to Nepal is not necessarily cheap. But if you have the desire to see Everest, it is definitely worth the trip.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Glad you have enjoyed the stories on the trip and the photos as well. :)
lori w. Jun 22nd 2010 9:55AM
wow! didnt expect you to say the average person! My face has a great big smile! Are u going again? What other great journeys have you taken.....if so...might we read your stories and see pictures?
ps what do you do for a living?
Kraig Jun 22nd 2010 10:31AM
Yep, the trip can be done by the average person, but there are some dangers and you can reduce your suffering by preparing and training before hand. My next story for Gadling on this trip will come on Thursday and discuss preparation. Today I published a story on trekking independently vs. going on a guided trek.
I've had the good fortune have visiting some amazing places, of which Everest is just one. Some of my other adventures include training kung fu at the Shaolin Temple in China, exploring the Sahara in Egypt, climbing Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, camping on the Serengeti, visiting the Amazon River and Jungle, and sailing the Great Barrier Reef, amongst others. I'm almost always planning my next getaway. :)
Besides writing about adventure travel and other outdoor pursuits, such as mountaineering, polar exploration, and so on, I work in IT for my "day job". ;)
lori Jun 22nd 2010 2:46PM
whose better than you!!! you have a wonderful look toward life, and you are doing amazing trips that the average joe will never do or see in his lifetime..
You either are very good at what u do, money wise, or you just breathe adventure and live it! I say, YOU have one life to live and man are you living it! Wish I could go on half the trips with u...lori