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Gondar: Ethiopia's Camelot
The road north from Lake Tana, Ethiopia, gradually ascends into the mountains. The landscape grows greener and the farms look richer here.The combination of rough mountains and good farmland made it an obvious place for a capital city, and for many years it was. Gondar is nestled in a mountain-ringed valley at 2133 meters (6,998 ft.) altitude and is free from the malaria that plagues the Lake Tana region. It appeared so attractive that the Emperor Fasilidas moved from Lake Tana and made Gondar his capital in 1635. He built the impressive castle pictured to the right and gathered his court and supporters around him.
If the castle looks a bit European, that's because Fasilidas took his inspiration from the Portuguese. A group of Portuguese adventurers had helped his father, Susneyos, defeat the Muslim conqueror Ahmed Gragn. Susneyos converted to Catholicism and tried to convert his subjects too, but the Ethiopian Orthodox faith was too strong for such a change. When Fasilidas came to the throne he quickly reconverted everyone back to the traditional church and ejected the Portuguese. This didn't stop him from learning a thing or two from the Europeans, however, castle architecture being one of them.
Gondar makes a good rest stop after a few days of driving. The mountain breeze is cool and refreshing. The Italians liked it too, and during their brief occupation of the country from 1936-1941 they built an attractive European-style downtown that still retains some faded glory.
Gallery: Gondar: Ethiopia's Camelot
Gondar is a place of song. The town's many churches broadcast prayers and hymns over loudspeakers from the early morning until late at night. While this is common practice across Ethiopia, here the prayers bounce off the slopes and echo across the valley. They are especially audible at the palace complex, where Fasilidas built his castle and his successors vied with each other to make their own mark on history. There are a total of six castles by six different kings, built during Gondar's 280 year run as the empire's capital. The entire complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
While that of Fasilidas is the most imposing, each castle has its own distinctive style. A walk around the grounds is best done in a leisurely manner, and some castles offer fine views from the upper windows and battlements, although it takes some convincing to get the guards to let you up there!
Two related sights nearby should not be missed. One is the "Bath" of Fasilidas, actually a giant baptismal font for his famous mass reconversion. Usually it's left empty, but for Timkat, the celebration of Epiphany, it's filled with water and the faithful gather around, dressed in white and carrying candles.
The other sight is the Trinity Church built by the Emperor Iyasu in 1674. Of the 44 churches in Gondar, this is the only one to survive the attack of the Mahdi's forces from the Sudan in 1888. It is said that the bees kept in the orchard on the church grounds swarmed against the Muslim looters and stung them so badly that they fled. The soldiers tried several times to burn the church, but each time they were driven off by angry bees.
However the church was saved, every visitor is grateful that it was. The interior is filled with elegant paintings of miracles and Bible scenes. Even the ceiling is covered in art. Winged angel heads are painted in neat rows along and between the roof beams. They look in every direction, a symbol of God being able to see everything at once.
If he has an eye for beauty, he must be looking at Gondar a lot.
Coming up next: Ethiopia's wonderful children!
You can read the rest of the Ethiopia series here.
While that of Fasilidas is the most imposing, each castle has its own distinctive style. A walk around the grounds is best done in a leisurely manner, and some castles offer fine views from the upper windows and battlements, although it takes some convincing to get the guards to let you up there!
Two related sights nearby should not be missed. One is the "Bath" of Fasilidas, actually a giant baptismal font for his famous mass reconversion. Usually it's left empty, but for Timkat, the celebration of Epiphany, it's filled with water and the faithful gather around, dressed in white and carrying candles.
The other sight is the Trinity Church built by the Emperor Iyasu in 1674. Of the 44 churches in Gondar, this is the only one to survive the attack of the Mahdi's forces from the Sudan in 1888. It is said that the bees kept in the orchard on the church grounds swarmed against the Muslim looters and stung them so badly that they fled. The soldiers tried several times to burn the church, but each time they were driven off by angry bees.
However the church was saved, every visitor is grateful that it was. The interior is filled with elegant paintings of miracles and Bible scenes. Even the ceiling is covered in art. Winged angel heads are painted in neat rows along and between the roof beams. They look in every direction, a symbol of God being able to see everything at once.
If he has an eye for beauty, he must be looking at Gondar a lot.
Coming up next: Ethiopia's wonderful children!
You can read the rest of the Ethiopia series here.
Filed under: Arts and Culture, History, Learning, Africa, Ethiopia, Budget Travel
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Bill Mar 30th 2010 6:54PM
Sean -- another great post. By "convincing" the guards, do you mean with a little baksheesh?
Elaine H Apr 2nd 2010 3:20PM
Totally fascinating. I'm looking through guidebooks on Ethiopia at the moment and it seems like an amazing otherworldly place. While saving up for a trip next year, I'm following your posts and really enjoying them. Just want to make sure, are tourists allowed to photograph the Gondar castles? Thanks.
nurit Mar 31st 2010 3:21AM
hi! i have been in erhiopia in november2009,i steel miss it very much.the lonely planet has a guide . i can recomend for a very good and honest tour guide.
the writer did not mention the jewish theme in gondar- synagoges & graveyards.
Sean McLachlan Mar 30th 2010 6:56PM
Bill, no bribery involved, just a lot of fast talk. Elaine, yes you can photograph almost anything in Ethiopia, Gondar included. Some church interiors and military stuff is off-limits, but pretty much anything else can be photographed.