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Hong Kong goes retro

Hong Kong is truly the city of the future. The city's ubiquitous skyline of shiny beveled-angle skyscrapers towers above you like a giant wall of steel and glass. Meanwhile, residents tap their Octopus cards at cash registers, magically paying for purchases without bills or coins. Yet lying beneath Hong Kong's fancy neon wizardry is a puzzling trend. It seems these days, Hong Kong is not looking to the future. Instead, the city's residents have decided to look to the past.
Perhaps it's inevitable in a city as amazingly dense as this bursting Asian megalopolis. The city sits on a series of tiny islands leaning precariously onto the South China Sea, meaning there's simply never enough space. The city's modern skyscrapers and futuristic bridges exist side-by-side with ancient colonial tenement homes and incense-shrouded Buddhist temples. But whether you're in search of a souvenir, checking out a museum or simply looking for food and drink, you're likely to encounter a slice of Hong Kong's growing love for all things vintage.
But "old and musty" vintage this is not. Hong Kong retro is all about reinventing and reusing the pieces of its textured past, providing visitors with a unique slice of checkered history in a decidedly modern way. If you're in search of a unique taste of days gone-by or a one-of-a-kind souvenir, Hong Kong's retro style is ready to be discovered. Keep reading to see where to find it...
Retro DiningFor many food is the ultimate source of nostalgia, a reminder of our youth and days gone by. It's a fact that's been well-absorbed in retro Hong Kong, where a cuisine of fresh ingredients and age-old family recipes prevails. Nowhere is this better evident than at Kowloon's Tai Ping Koon restaurant, an eatery defiantly still around after more than 150 years of business. But this is no tourist trap. Each evening Tai Ping Koon's elegant Mid-Century modern dining room is packed with locals enjoying the restaurant's signature chicken wings in Swiss Sauce and its light, puffy souffles. It's the original example of East vs. West eating - a distinctly Hong Kong take on Western food.
Retro Shopping
Those looking to experience Hong Kong's retro past need not only find it on a plate. These days, Hong Kong's high-energy shopping experience is going retro too. It all starts at Goods of Desire (G.O.D.), a popular home goods store dedicated to "increasing interest in Asian lifestyle and culture." The products for sale at G.O.D. aren't your average spatula or cooking utensil. Instead, many items like the store's retro textiles, kitschy selection of Mao Zedong postcards and old-school furniture pay homage to an earlier era of Hong Kong, a time when it was "the world's factory," producing cheap goods for sale in Europe and the U.S. It's a great place to learn more about the city's history and pick up a unique souvenir.
Just down the street from G.O.D. is Shanghai Tang, a clothing store that references Hong Kong's famous reputation for custom-made clothing. The chain takes much of its inspiration from traditional Han Chinese apparel, updated with modern touches. Inside the stores' Art Deco interior you'll find both men's and women's clothing as well as an array of leather goods, stationery and household goods referencing traditional Chinese symbols and design.
Retro DrinkingThe Pawn in Hong Kong's Wan Chai neighborhood offers another example of the city's reverence for its historic roots. Pawnshops are a particularly iconic fixture of Hong Kong life. Long before the city's mammoth banks like HSBC were established, pawn shops played an important role as money lenders for a growing city of merchants and traders. The spartan interiors, high counters and darkened lighting have became a common sight for the city's residents.
These days, many of Hong Kong's pawn shops have been replaced, or as is the case with The Pawn, remade into fun hangout spots. The Pawn's comfy interior pays tribute to Hong Kong's days of old, offering visitors a wood-paneled interior, leather armchairs and old-school rickety foosball table inside what used to be a working pawn shop. A selection of international beers and cocktails rounds out the menu.
Hong Kong might be the city of the future, but it's a place that hasn't forgotten its unique past. From retro eating to shopping to drinking, visitors will find opportunities to enjoy a one-of-a-kind trip through time in this world-famous city.
Filed under: Food and Drink, Asia, Hong Kong












Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Peter Mar 14th 2010 1:27PM
OMG... I love Tai Pin Koon... How long are you guys in HK? Anyway, awesome review... I got a friend coming from Columbus, OH to visit me in HK... I think I am going to bring them to some of these places as well! Anyway, if you have time, I strongly recommend visiting the Hong Kong history measum, the best measum in HK and give a very good over view of the history of the city! Ladies market and Temple Street is a must! You should go try food at Temple Street Market (Dai Pai Dong = means temporary street food stall, but they have been there every since I was a kid)... Also, as usual, the peak is a must visit, so is Stanley Market... If you want something completely different, take the ferry and go visit lamma island or Cheung Chau Island, it give you a completely different Hong Kong experience... Anyway, I am sure you don't need any more info for me... Hahaha... But if you do, or need some advice on where to go in HK... Give me a shout! Finally, if you are still around on the 17th March, don't miss the night horse racing at Happy Valley! It is a must do! Good luck and have fun! :-)
Jeremy Kressmann Mar 14th 2010 1:33PM
Wow, Peter - there's a lot of great tips in here. Thanks a lot for your thoughts!
I did get a chance to visit the HK History Museum - the recreations of early 20th Century Hong Kong were really cool. Great addition to the city's retro vibe.
We've got a couple more HK posts coming up this week on Gadling, stay tuned for some more stuff.