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Palate cleanser: Glasgow
Ah, Glasgow. Rarely do you find a city with such lovely people, such sexy accents and such stunning architecture. If I were Glaswegian, I would be totally full of myself, but their unassuming Scottish attitude is refreshingly humble and charming. If you've ever met someone from Glasgow, you know.The Scottish are known for a few things: their witty storytelling, their fantastic rolling landscapes and their ability to make delicious haggis out of actual tripe. To me, the landscape is so appealing I caught myself thinking "If one were to live in or even visit beautiful, green Scotland, why on Earth would they want to be in a city?" Glasgow answers that question with Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
The Scenery
If scenery is your thing, you will never be disappointed with Glasgow. The Charles Rennie Mackintosh stamp is all over the place, both authentic and imitated, from churches to tea rooms. Add to that the River Clyde and museums like The Kelvingrove featuring some of Europe's finest art, and you'll find your need for beauty well-nourished. For big CRM fans (like me), you can actually take a tour of the Glasgow School of Art (below), which he attended and then designed -- his simple, elegant design featuring progressively growing wrought iron plants along the windows (swon him his alma mater's new building commission in 1896.
Another must-see is the mysterious Queen's Cross Church in Maryhill, Glasgow, which is a bit of a walk from the train but definitely rewarding. The church now serves as the headquarters of the Charles Rennie Mackintosh Society. See the gallery for pictures.
Gallery: Out and About in Glasgow
Eat
When you're done with your sight-seeing and ready for a bite to eat, a couple places I'd recommend include:
Fifi & Ally, where they have unbearably fresh food and swarms of women (in case you're into that), Cafe Zique, a West-End quirky brunchy beauty near the Kelvinhall subway station and walkable to The Hunterian and Kelvingrove art galleries and Stravaigin (means "to wander"), a luscious 2-floor gourmet restaurant with haggis so good you'd give it to your mother (and the rest of the food, both classic and experimental like the wild mushroom and savoy pierogi below, provided big wows as well).
Nightlife
The nightlife in Scotland can be a little ... intense. The Brits are famous for their clubbing tendencies, and gritty Glasgow is no exception. You'll find scantily, impossibly clad women young and old on the streets with men in shirts and jeans until well into the wee hours. Some of the bars and clubs are nice, one is called Nice n Sleazy. Good luck with that. Most of the best places are a little ways off the main drags like Buchanan Street, where all the mainstream shops are. One place I happen to like is a little champagne bar (and ristoranto) called Mediterraneo over on Ingram Street, and my very favorite bar in the entire world is Blue Dog at 151 West George Street (below). I'm not being hyperbolic; I visited Blue Dog for the first time the year it opened (at age 22) and decided it was the best bar I'd ever been to. I just went back, and not only was I proud of my 22-year-old taste, but the entire pack of journalists I was with loved it, too. It's loungey, with amazing cocktails and a singer/piano player hammering out Van Halen and Radiohead. The bartenders take unheard of amounts of time with each drink, making sure every one is perfect, so be patient -- and be sure to try some of the Saffron Gin.
Details
Glasgow is really easy to get around by subway, and the rates aren't tricky like they are in London. Cabs are not hard to come by if you'd rather not go underground. If you're looking for a rock-bottom hotel price, consider the Euro Hostel, which I stayed in as a youngin' and totally survived. If you're a little older, I can safely recommend the ABode Hotel -- no frills, but the prices are decent and the rooms are clean and comfortable and have internet. I hear that the place to go if you've got the cash is the 5-star One Devonshire Gardens in the heart of the fashionable West End -- they have a spa, a gym, private walled gardens and award-winning food.
Whether you're heading to Glasgow for one of the many music festivals, to see the art, or are just looking for an Edinburgh alternative or a place to fly into on your pilgrimage to Loch Ness, it doesn't take much time to walk around and fall in love with Glasgow's gothic, yet easygoing charm. Be sure and chat up your bartenders and other locals you meet; you'll hear hilarious tales you'd never hear outside of Scotland.
This trip was paid for by VisitBritain, but the ideas and opinions expressed in the article above are 100% my own.
Nightlife
The nightlife in Scotland can be a little ... intense. The Brits are famous for their clubbing tendencies, and gritty Glasgow is no exception. You'll find scantily, impossibly clad women young and old on the streets with men in shirts and jeans until well into the wee hours. Some of the bars and clubs are nice, one is called Nice n Sleazy. Good luck with that. Most of the best places are a little ways off the main drags like Buchanan Street, where all the mainstream shops are. One place I happen to like is a little champagne bar (and ristoranto) called Mediterraneo over on Ingram Street, and my very favorite bar in the entire world is Blue Dog at 151 West George Street (below). I'm not being hyperbolic; I visited Blue Dog for the first time the year it opened (at age 22) and decided it was the best bar I'd ever been to. I just went back, and not only was I proud of my 22-year-old taste, but the entire pack of journalists I was with loved it, too. It's loungey, with amazing cocktails and a singer/piano player hammering out Van Halen and Radiohead. The bartenders take unheard of amounts of time with each drink, making sure every one is perfect, so be patient -- and be sure to try some of the Saffron Gin.
Details
Glasgow is really easy to get around by subway, and the rates aren't tricky like they are in London. Cabs are not hard to come by if you'd rather not go underground. If you're looking for a rock-bottom hotel price, consider the Euro Hostel, which I stayed in as a youngin' and totally survived. If you're a little older, I can safely recommend the ABode Hotel -- no frills, but the prices are decent and the rooms are clean and comfortable and have internet. I hear that the place to go if you've got the cash is the 5-star One Devonshire Gardens in the heart of the fashionable West End -- they have a spa, a gym, private walled gardens and award-winning food.
Whether you're heading to Glasgow for one of the many music festivals, to see the art, or are just looking for an Edinburgh alternative or a place to fly into on your pilgrimage to Loch Ness, it doesn't take much time to walk around and fall in love with Glasgow's gothic, yet easygoing charm. Be sure and chat up your bartenders and other locals you meet; you'll hear hilarious tales you'd never hear outside of Scotland.
This trip was paid for by VisitBritain, but the ideas and opinions expressed in the article above are 100% my own.
Filed under: Arts and Culture, Food and Drink, United Kingdom
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 2)
Grant Martin Feb 21st 2010 4:09PM
Is that top image an HDR?
Annie Scott Feb 22nd 2010 1:22PM
Negatory, that is from my trusty little Casio Exilim. I turned up the shadows a tad, but that's all.
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christopher Feb 28th 2010 7:28AM
Best time i had when i went to Glasgow is when i went to Oniels a small pub but it rocks.
Candi Feb 28th 2010 9:38AM
We're heading to Ireland and Scotland this summer. Just booked everything up. We're all about the small chill pubs with good food and cool people. What woudl you suggest?
vegcon Feb 28th 2010 8:15AM
there is nothing sexy about a british accent. the world's only sexy language and should be classified as so is F R E N C H.
Hollis Feb 28th 2010 10:49AM
I doubt it!!!!!
paul Feb 28th 2010 8:17AM
great country Scotland but the weather sucks.....
Hollis Feb 28th 2010 10:48AM
Not if you go end of August beginning of September. I was in Scotland and London for a month and It only got misty 1 day...it was lovely.
Richard Feb 28th 2010 8:18AM
Glasgow is one of the cities I'd like to see. Been to London on three holidays and would love to see Edinborough and Glasgow. We're descended from the Caithness area in NE Scotland. A friend of mine is from "Glas-goo," as she says it. Still has family there. Says it's a wonderful city. Enjoyed the piece.
Doc Feb 28th 2010 10:27AM
And Glasgow has one of the greatest airports on the planet! Easy to find your way around; easier to get where you're going.
Angie Drane Feb 28th 2010 10:28AM
How accommodating is Glasgow for power wheelchair users? I really want to visit, but not sure it is a possibility. Any hints would be great.
Kevin Burgoyne Feb 28th 2010 11:07AM
Glasgow is a perfect example of a pig wearing lipstick. It was always a dump and now it is just a cleaner, more expensive dump. If you really want to go to a hip city populated by people with sexy accents go visit Newcastle upon Tyne. The football team is much better there too.
Kevin59 Feb 28th 2010 11:11AM
Glasgow cuisine; no veggies and deep fried Mars Bars the heart attack capital of the U.K.
molly Feb 28th 2010 11:39AM
I cried upon my first arrival in Glasgow in 1972. The city seemed nothing as much as a poverty stricken Pennsylvania coal town. The rest of Scotland had been a feast for the eyes, the heart, and the soul and then, here in Glasgow, there was an assault on the senses. I am glad to read that Glasgow has recuperated, nay, has prospered, and is now a tourist magnet. Good for you, Glaswegians!!!
bluqe Feb 28th 2010 12:36PM
I have not been to Scotland since 1950's, yet I still have warm memories of the country and it's people. They were a wonderful and gracious people.
I was a young lad seventeen or so and never once did they make me feel unwanted.
I have been all through Europe,Asia and South America and am really hard pressed to think of another group that were as friendly and welcoming.
Pattie Ong Feb 28th 2010 1:10PM
Was there 5 years ago. Great time. They have the two tier tour buses. One pays for the complete trip (cheap), then can get off at sites, (churches, art shows, museums, the University, ect.) then catch another bus from the same line 45 minutes later. Just show pass and off you go. Great for getting a feel of the city.
Mary Stuart Feb 28th 2010 1:39PM
I used to visit my Aunt Maryanne in Glasgow as a child and later on as a teenager.
I always felt the warmth of love and caring beyond description when I was there; so much that I once noticed the dark sooty buildings and wondered "you produce so much love that I have hardly noticed you". This age is gone and now I am a senior living far, far away but my memories are still young.
Marie Feb 28th 2010 2:14PM
Well I am going to be there in Glasgow in about four days so I'm ecstatic. I've read tons about the city and every article I've read only has wonderful things to say. Woohoo!!
Mintchip Feb 28th 2010 9:35PM
All of the positives mentioned in the article are true. However, I recently lived and worked in Glasgow for a year and let me tell you, there is a big difference living in a city and visiting as a tourist. Watch the 2006 Scottish film, Red Road, and you will see what Glasgow is really all about. Also, be prepared for being bombarded with litter filled streets, broken down buildings, vacant fields full of garbage and loads of grafitti. Oh yes, plenty of drug addicts and beggars to liven up the mix day or night. The economy is pitiful with even minumum wage jobs difficult to find and the government buraucracy could drive one insane. The weather is awful too. I spent the winter leaving the house in pitch dark, freezing rain and 60 mph wind gusts to get to the bus stop. It is a hard hard life to be had in Glasgow.