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Somaliland: the other Somalia
There are some places you just can't consider for a vacation. While even Iraq has recently opened up to carefully handled tours, Somalia remains out of bounds. What with an Islamist movement proudly proclaiming its ties to Al-Qaeda, and a decades-long civil war between rival clans, there's no chance of exploring the Somali culture and landscape, right?Actually, that's only half true.
The Republic of Somaliland is the northern third of what most maps show as Somalia. Anyone paying attention to the news knows that Somalia hasn't been a unified nation for quite some time, but this one region, a little larger than England and home to 3.5 million, has managed to bring stability and a developing democracy to its people. Born out of the colony of British Somaliland, it gained independence in 1960 and immediately joined former Italian Somaliland to create what we now know as Somalia. A brutal dictatorship and a civil war later, it declared independence in 1991 and has quietly built a nation as the rest of Somalia disintegrated into chaos.
But no other country recognizes Somaliland as an independent state, which makes it very hard to get international investment and attention. Now Somaliland officials are hoping an increase in tourism will help to literally put their country on the map. It already has regular contact with its neighbors Ethiopia and Djibouti, and has representatives in several major capitals. The Tourism Ministry is busy making plans and there's a good website highlighting Somali Heritage and Archaeology.
Gallery: Somaliland: The Other Somalia
With a countryside only thinly populated by nomads, Somaliland has good potential for safaris. Lions, cheetahs, zebras, antelope, and other animals are easily spotted. Even more stunning are the well-preserved paintings at Laas Geel, believed to be some of the oldest in Africa. They're located near the capital Hargeysa and remained unreported until 2002. Colorful paintings of hunters and animals date back an estimated 9,000 years.
Other towns to check out are Barbera and Zeila, two ports with excellent coral reefs as well as old colonial buildings from British and Ottoman times. More important than bricks and mortar, though, is the chance to interact with a culture that has had comparatively little contact with the outside world. This is a rare chance to see a country unaccustomed to tourism, where there are no "tourist sites" and "local hangouts". For the adventure traveler, it's still pretty much uncharted territory.
After almost 20 years of independence, Somaliland is beginning to get some recognition from adventure travelers. The most recent edition of Lonely Planet Ethiopia has a short section on the country, and three young backpackers recently posted a video of their trip there on YouTube. A reporter from the Pulitzer Center has also covered the country on an online video. Somaliland could become the adventure travel destination of the new decade.
While Somaliland has some good potential, travelers should take care. Government bodyguards are required (costing $10 a day each) and there are few facilities for visitors. The country has also attracted the ire of Al-Shabab, an Islamist group with ties to Al-Qaeda that wants to take over the Horn of Africa. In 2008 a series of deadly car bombings blamed on Al-Shabab left two dozen dead in Hargeysa. Also, the countryside is not yet safe enough for foreigners to travel overland from Ethiopia on public transport. There are regular flights to Hargeysa from Addis Ababa and other regional capitals. The office for Somaliland in Addis Ababa (which is not recognized as an embassy by the government of Ethiopia) can issue visas and give advice. If you do decide to go, it's best to plan well in advance and talk to the government as soon as possible.
Other towns to check out are Barbera and Zeila, two ports with excellent coral reefs as well as old colonial buildings from British and Ottoman times. More important than bricks and mortar, though, is the chance to interact with a culture that has had comparatively little contact with the outside world. This is a rare chance to see a country unaccustomed to tourism, where there are no "tourist sites" and "local hangouts". For the adventure traveler, it's still pretty much uncharted territory.
After almost 20 years of independence, Somaliland is beginning to get some recognition from adventure travelers. The most recent edition of Lonely Planet Ethiopia has a short section on the country, and three young backpackers recently posted a video of their trip there on YouTube. A reporter from the Pulitzer Center has also covered the country on an online video. Somaliland could become the adventure travel destination of the new decade.
While Somaliland has some good potential, travelers should take care. Government bodyguards are required (costing $10 a day each) and there are few facilities for visitors. The country has also attracted the ire of Al-Shabab, an Islamist group with ties to Al-Qaeda that wants to take over the Horn of Africa. In 2008 a series of deadly car bombings blamed on Al-Shabab left two dozen dead in Hargeysa. Also, the countryside is not yet safe enough for foreigners to travel overland from Ethiopia on public transport. There are regular flights to Hargeysa from Addis Ababa and other regional capitals. The office for Somaliland in Addis Ababa (which is not recognized as an embassy by the government of Ethiopia) can issue visas and give advice. If you do decide to go, it's best to plan well in advance and talk to the government as soon as possible.
Filed under: Arts and Culture, History, Scuba Diving, Africa, Somalia
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
alezz Feb 6th 2010 2:50AM
yes the somaliland region is safer than south central Somalia regions, but still the whole of somaliland region is not safe there are bandits on the roads i was there one year ago, there were not allot of police
mo3lmi Feb 6th 2010 11:48AM
Somaliland is the safest country , I was there a year ago and saw a police every where even women sale Gold on the street and drive cars with out a police escort . people of Somaliland look after one onther keeping thier country safe.
ahmed walanbe Feb 20th 2010 1:54PM
somaliland is actually intitled to be a recognised country, and we can say it is the safest place in the horn of africa, in somaliland there is multi party system, there are very effectiful governmental institutions such as parliaments, courts, security agencies, and civil service agencies. in somaliland there is a free trade system and free port.
Elliot Feb 6th 2010 2:16PM
i was there last year it was wonderful the hotel was very comfortable by the airport ,people did not look at you as an invader everyone was friendly the food was terriffic the music was intoxicating, the caves were interesting the roads easily traveled and the beach like no other place on the planet, The Capital is busy with vendors but the town is not clean plastic bags litter the city, the gurads i had assigned to me to take me into the country side looked like they couldnt protect thmselves just wearing some military outfits and carry weapons that I am not sure even worked, but still we bonded for the day, at the road crossing the driver pays a few cents to the gate keeper along the stretch of road ways mostly they are just little villages selling charcoal stacks by the roadside and herding their live stock,I was very comfortable thruout my stay and addding this TIck off my list of countries viisted was a real trophy, you can buy the viusa upon arrrival , the airport agents charge a big forceable exchange rate which is done to everyone, it is the one way they can make a buck! so dont get upset you have no choice,!
SOMALILAND Feb 8th 2010 12:03AM
WELECOME TO MY MOTHER LAND , I LOVE SOMALILAND..., VERY BUTEFULL COUNTRY , PEACFULLY EVRY ONE CAN ENJOY.
SO WELCOME TO MY COUNTERY MY BE LOVED COUNTRY '
I AM BROAD TO BE SOMALILAND ....!
IF U NEED MORE INFORMATION U CAN ASK ME
RAYSULWASAARE@HOTMAIL.COM
SOMALILAND STUDENTY MALAYSIA
UNIVERSITY TUN HUSSEIN ONN MALAYSIA