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Coming attractions: Ethiopia
There aren't many countries that can truly call themselves unique. France has great cuisine, but so does Italy. India has challenging and beautiful mountaineering routes, and so does Peru.But Ethiopia really is unique. It's the only African country that was never colonized, and as far as paleontologists can tell, it's where the human race evolved from our earlier ancestors.
Ethiopia's Great Rift Valley is a treasure trove of fossils that have revealed our origins from something not quite human and not quite ape, and our slow evolution into something more recognizable. These fossils, including the famous Lucy, are on show at the National Museum in Addis Ababa. The great lesson evolution has to teach us is that we're all related. Ethiopia is everyone's hometown.
Ethiopia's great history didn't end with simply giving birth to the human race. It was home to a series of important civilizations that left a rich cultural legacy. The country boasts eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the eleven churches of Lalibela cut out of solid rock. The one pictured here is called Bete Medhane Alem ("Savior of the World") and is believed to be the largest rock-hewn church anywhere. Another entry to the list is the ancient capital of Aksum with its towering monoliths. Aksum's rulers controlled one of the ancient world's great empires for a thousand years from about 50 BC until 950 AD.
Ethiopians are proud of their history and near Aksum is the battlefield of Adowa, where in 1896 an Italian army determined to colonize the country was gobbled up by a well-armed and disciplined Ethiopian force in one of the biggest defeats of a colonial force by a native army in history. The Italians returned in 1935 under Mussolini, this time with tanks and poison gas, and took over for a few brutal years, but they never really controlled the country and got promptly ejected during World War Two.
This is a large nation, almost twice the size of France, with several different cultural and ethnic groups and a mix of Christian, Muslim, and animist beliefs. The population of 79 million speaks 83 languages and more than 200 dialects. In the rugged highlands of the north are the Amhara and Tigrayana, who are mostly Christian. In the dry east are the Muslim Harari, whose main city of Harar is considered one of the holiest cities of Islam. The grasslands to the south are home to the Oromo, who embrace various faiths, and tribal animist cultures such as the Mursi, who are famous for the giant rings they put through their lower lips. There are many more ethnic groups, but it would take a book to cover them all.
One aspect of Ethiopian culture many people in the West have discovered is the food. There's Ethiopian coffee, of course. Coffee was discovered coffee here and the Ethiopians have a pleasant ceremony to celebrate drinking it with friends. There's also distinct cuisine that's beginning to catch on in the West. A spongy, slightly sour bread called injera provided a base for a variety of meat and vegetable dishes. There's lots for vegetarians to eat in Ethiopia, plus Wednesdays and Fridays are traditional fasting days when most restaurants and private homes won't serve meat. Ethiopian restaurants have become popular in the U.S. and U.K. and provide a good introduction to the cuisine. If you're in London, try Merkato Restaurant on 196 Caledonian Road. The best I've had in England!
If nature is more your style then try the wild and rugged Semien Mountains, another World Heritage Site, that offers unspoiled trekking where you can see rare species found only in Ethiopia, such as the Ethiopian wolf and Gelada baboon. You might also want to dare the Danakil Depression in the extreme northeast. An inhospitable desert 100 meters below sea level, it's seen a record high of 64.4°C (148.0°F) and regularly gets up to 48 °C (118 °F).
Get there
A number of airlines fly to Bole International Airport in the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa. Since it isn't a hugely popular destination prices aren't very competitive but they aren't outrageous if you shop around. I got a flight on Egyptair from Madrid via Cairo to Addis Ababa for only 550 euros ($830). Few flights from Europe are direct; most stop in the Gulf or North Africa. One odd thing is that many flights land in the wee hours of the morning. I'm getting in at 4am, so I guess I'll just change some money at the 24-hour bank, hope one of the airport cafes is open, and wait until sunrise.
I'll be there from February 9-March 27. It's been a lifelong dream of mine to see Ethiopia. I've been studying the history for years and talking to every expat I can find. Now I'm finally going there! Expect to see lots more about this fascinating country on Gadling.
One aspect of Ethiopian culture many people in the West have discovered is the food. There's Ethiopian coffee, of course. Coffee was discovered coffee here and the Ethiopians have a pleasant ceremony to celebrate drinking it with friends. There's also distinct cuisine that's beginning to catch on in the West. A spongy, slightly sour bread called injera provided a base for a variety of meat and vegetable dishes. There's lots for vegetarians to eat in Ethiopia, plus Wednesdays and Fridays are traditional fasting days when most restaurants and private homes won't serve meat. Ethiopian restaurants have become popular in the U.S. and U.K. and provide a good introduction to the cuisine. If you're in London, try Merkato Restaurant on 196 Caledonian Road. The best I've had in England!
If nature is more your style then try the wild and rugged Semien Mountains, another World Heritage Site, that offers unspoiled trekking where you can see rare species found only in Ethiopia, such as the Ethiopian wolf and Gelada baboon. You might also want to dare the Danakil Depression in the extreme northeast. An inhospitable desert 100 meters below sea level, it's seen a record high of 64.4°C (148.0°F) and regularly gets up to 48 °C (118 °F).
Get there
A number of airlines fly to Bole International Airport in the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa. Since it isn't a hugely popular destination prices aren't very competitive but they aren't outrageous if you shop around. I got a flight on Egyptair from Madrid via Cairo to Addis Ababa for only 550 euros ($830). Few flights from Europe are direct; most stop in the Gulf or North Africa. One odd thing is that many flights land in the wee hours of the morning. I'm getting in at 4am, so I guess I'll just change some money at the 24-hour bank, hope one of the airport cafes is open, and wait until sunrise.
I'll be there from February 9-March 27. It's been a lifelong dream of mine to see Ethiopia. I've been studying the history for years and talking to every expat I can find. Now I'm finally going there! Expect to see lots more about this fascinating country on Gadling.
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
surafel Dec 10th 2009 2:18PM
thank you for writing something positive about ethiopia. if you need help when you are in ethiopia email me back!
aklilu Dec 8th 2009 1:49PM
My tears scroll when ever I hear the real thing about the Great Land And People of Ethiopia. I know “It Is the place where it all begun” But unfortunately they have been remaining unknown to the rest of the world.
At one time in history Ethiopia saved human being from exaction. During the ice age some 160,000 years ago the man can survive I the high land of Ethiopia. This land and its people are so special to all human. They were Great and for sure thy will be great. One day it will be clear that Ethiopia is homeland to all human being
Thank you Sean McLachlan.
James Dec 8th 2009 5:36PM
I am going to Ethiopia next Sept. Having read this I am even more excited about my coming trip.
john Dec 9th 2009 2:28AM
ethiopia is trully one of the best countries in the world. it is poor but happy country. it is also the capital of africa with a proud history of independence and civilization. afterall we are all from ethiopia
Ladyexpat Dec 10th 2009 2:27AM
Can't wait to hear about your travels. Sounds like a fascinating country. Have fun!
http://budgettravelerssandbox.com
Sintayehu Dec 11th 2009 9:35AM
It is my first time to see good news about my country while Ethiopia is not poor of history and heritage. People should open their eyes to appreciate good things of Ethiopia and you are doing a lot to this effect and should take the credit. We Ethiopians shoud be positive about ourselves and attract good fortune to Ethiopia and to us. Ethiopia First!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thomas Dec 11th 2009 2:21AM
Please get your facts straight - Ethiopia is not the only African country to not be colonized as stated in your extracts above. Liberia was also never colonised.
Sean McLachlan Dec 11th 2009 2:28AM
Liberia became independent in 1847. Before that there were British, Portuguese, and Dutch colonies in the region. Some were started as far back as the 15th century. Starting in 1822, it was considered a colony of the American Colonization Society, which used it to settle freed slaves. It was only after this that Liberia became an independent country.
Thomas Dec 11th 2009 4:11AM
The same can be said of Ethiopia in the light of your response above:
http://africanhistory.about.com/od/eracolonialism/tp/AfricaNotColon.htm
In the 1880s Italy failed to take Abyssinia (as Ethiopia was then known) as a colony. On 3 October 1935 Mussolini ordered a new invasion and on 9 May the following year Abyssinia was annexed by Italy. On 1 June the country was merged with Eritrea and Italian Somalia to form Africa Orientale Italiana (AOI - Italian East Africa).
Emperor Haile Selassie made an impassioned appeal to the League of Nations on 30 June 1936, gaining support from the US and Russia. But many League of Nations members, including Britain and France, recognized Italian colonization.
It was not until 5 May 1941, when Selassie was restored to the Ethiopian throne, that independence was regained.
Thomas Dec 11th 2009 4:11AM
The same can be said of Ethiopia in the light of what you said above:
http://africanhistory.about.com/od/eracolonialism/tp/AfricaNotColon.htm:
In the 1880s Italy failed to take Abyssinia (as Ethiopia was then known) as a colony. On 3 October 1935 Mussolini ordered a new invasion and on 9 May the following year Abyssinia was annexed by Italy. On 1 June the country was merged with Eritrea and Italian Somalia to form Africa Orientale Italiana (AOI - Italian East Africa).
Emperor Haile Selassie made an impassioned appeal to the League of Nations on 30 June 1936, gaining support from the US and Russia. But many League of Nations members, including Britain and France, recognized Italian colonization.
It was not until 5 May 1941, when Selassie was restored to the Ethiopian throne, that independence was regained.
Thomas Dec 11th 2009 4:11AM
The same can be said about Ethiopia in the light of your response to my comment:
http://africanhistory.about.com/od/eracolonialism/tp/AfricaNotColon.htm
There are two countries in Africa which are considered to never have been colonized. The truth, however, is much more complex and open to debate.
1. Liberia
Liberia was a colony for just over 17 years before partial independence was achieved through the declaration of a commonwealth (4 April 1839). True independence was declared eight years later on 26 July 1847.
The American Society for Colonization of Free People of Color of the United States (known simply as the American Colonization Society, ACS) created the Cape Mesurado Colony on the Grain Coast on 15 December 1821. This was further expanded into the Colony of Liberia on 15 August 1824. The ACS was a society initially run by white Americans who believed there was no place for Free Blacks in the US. Its administration was later taken over by Free Blacks.
2. Ethiopia
In the 1880s Italy failed to take Abyssinia (as Ethiopia was then known) as a colony. On 3 October 1935 Mussolini ordered a new invasion and on 9 May the following year Abyssinia was annexed by Italy. On 1 June the country was merged with Eritrea and Italian Somalia to form Africa Orientale Italiana (AOI - Italian East Africa).
Emperor Haile Selassie made an impassioned appeal to the League of Nations on 30 June 1936, gaining support from the US and Russia. But many League of Nations members, including Britain and France, recognized Italian colonization.
It was not until 5 May 1941, when Selassie was restored to the Ethiopian throne, that independence was regained.
Adrian Dec 11th 2009 4:12AM
In the light of your response to Thomas, the same can be said about Ethiopia:
http://africanhistory.about.com/od/eracolonialism/tp/AfricaNotColon.htm
In the 1880s Italy failed to take Abyssinia (as Ethiopia was then known) as a colony. On 3 October 1935 Mussolini ordered a new invasion and on 9 May the following year Abyssinia was annexed by Italy. On 1 June the country was merged with Eritrea and Italian Somalia to form Africa Orientale Italiana (AOI - Italian East Africa).
Emperor Haile Selassie made an impassioned appeal to the League of Nations on 30 June 1936, gaining support from the US and Russia. But many League of Nations members, including Britain and France, recognized Italian colonization.
It was not until 5 May 1941, when Selassie was restored to the Ethiopian throne, that independence was regained.
Sean McLachlan Dec 11th 2009 4:17AM
You don't have to keep repeating yourself, and under two different names!
You failed to address the issue of the 300 years of colonization in Liberia before the American Society got involved, starting with the Portuguese in 1461.
Also, the Italians never really controlled most of Ethiopia. It was much like the situation with the Americans in Afghanistan. The Italians controlled the cities and roads (during the day) and the Ethiopians controlled the rest.
Micah Mar 23rd 2010 1:14AM
Of course, he also fails to realize that Ethiopia fought off the Italians and maintained its own independence. Ethiopia isn't a nation created by a foreign entity for the sole purpose of emancipating its captives. There's not a relevant correlation between the two to even contemplate a comparison.
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