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A medieval church, a lost village, and river walk in England
I've written about the Thames Path in an earlier post, but I recently discovered an even better stretch of that river trail that starts at a beautiful medieval abbey. So of course you folks get to enjoy the view without having to do the footwork. Aren't I nice to you? Like all my hikes so far, this is an easy day trip from Oxford or London.
Dorchester Abbey is in the little village of Dorchester-on-Thames, easily reachable by direct bus from Oxford, or from London via Oxford. The Abbey dates from 1140 and has some wonderful stained glass, rare frescoes, and medieval tombs. There's also an interesting little museum and when I was there, someone had drawn a chalk labyrinth on the floor. Church labyrinths have enjoyed a revival recently. Following their meandering lines is very relaxing and a good aid to meditation.
The town itself is worth a wander for its many old houses and 16th century inn, still taking guests and serving meals and drinks.
A short walk southeast of town are some interesting features. First are the The Dyke Hills, a set of parallel embankments that look like a dyke but in fact are prehistoric defenses. Beyond that is a nature reserve and a massive chalk hill called Castle Hill, so called because in prehistoric times there was a fort here. If you huff it all the way to the top, you'll be rewarded with a magnificent sweeping view of the surrounding countryside, only slightly spoiled by the nearby Didcot nuclear power station. Enter the copse of beech trees and be rewarded with an amazing rushing sound as the strong, steady wind rustles the leaves. Stop at the Poem Tree, where in 1844 and 1845 Joseph Tubbs carved a poem into the bark. It's no longer legible, but there's a transcription on a plaque at its base, and even a website inspired by his work.
From Castle Hill you can see Day's Lock on the river. Walk to it and head out for a country ramble on the Thames Path. From the lock it's a flat, easy seven miles to Abingdon, a historic town that is a ten-minute bus ride from Oxford.
Gallery: Dorchester to Abingdon hike
As you head out from Dorchester-on-Thames, you'll pass by several little villages. The Didcot power station remains clearly visible for the first few miles. Try to ignore it. After a while you'll cross Clifton Hampden bridge. Stop at the local pub, admire the thatched roof houses, and recharge the batteries.
Continuing on, you'll pass through verdant, peaceful countryside, your only companions being the birds and the occasional river barge gliding down the river. Stop at Sutton Courtenay, where the Norman manor house dates to the 12th century. George Orwell is buried in the churchyard. I found this part of the hike to be a bit freaky. In the Late Middle Ages, Sutton Courtenay used to be much bigger than it is now, but for some reason most of the town was abandoned. You can still see the foundations of buildings and the faint traces of old roads. Nobody knows what happened. Did the Black Death wipe out the population? Did they get killed in some long-forgotten massacre? As I was passing by the abandoned part of town the clouds grew thick and a cold wind blew. I didn't see any ghosts, but I felt like I was going to!
Barely two miles more and you'll enter Abingdon, which I mentioned in my last post about the Thames Path. From there it's an easy bus ride to Oxford, and then on to London. Enjoy!
Filed under: Arts and Culture, Hiking, History, Europe, United Kingdom
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Craig Wyzik Aug 9th 2009 3:28PM
Thanks for highlighting some of the things you can see in this extremely pleasant part of England. My family has a house in Burcot, and I'm looking forward to a visit there next month!
Sean McLachlan Aug 9th 2009 3:29PM
Lucky you! Try the Ridgeway Trail. I'll be writing about that later this month.
Bill Aug 9th 2009 5:49PM
Sean -- great article; thanks for the tour.
Pastor Asghar khokhar Aug 26th 2009 4:40PM
Holy and Apostolic Greetings in the Name of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ!
I hope your good honor very fine and working for Gospel with more devotion and power a I am praying,
I was led to share with you my vision for Pakistan & the work that We do for Jesus in Pakistan. We have growing ministries in Pakistan; it is a privilege to share about the work of the Lord that is going on in Pakistan through The Wesleyan Methodist Church.
We are presently involved with
1.Mission & Evangelism. (Matthew 28: 19)
2.Bible Schools & Adult Educational centers.
3.Medical Evangelism Ministry. (Running three Medical Clinics in different areas for fee treatments of needed sick people)
4.Village Ministry.
5.Care Widows Ministry (Help the poor program in small level)
6.Children, women and youth Ministries.
We are doing all these programs in a good way to reveal the for the glory of lord and wants and need for your prayer to expand the work of Lord Jesus Christ in Muslim country.
Would you consider praying and seeking God as to your involvement with (WMCP) in Pakistan whether to be praying for us. We invite you to come on a Mission Trip to Pakistan to minister to the undetached sections of Pakistan. Would like more in formation, Please do not hesitate to contact us or visit our website, at www.wmcp.itgo.com
We are self-supported and non-profitable ministries in Pakistan since 1992 to still now. We need your prayers, fellowship partnership, and affiliation in Pakistan. Let come with us for saving in the Pakistan.
We will be glad to share more with you. Looking forward to hearing optimistic response form you at your convenience. May God bless you abundantly!
Pastor Asghar khokhar