Click on a label to read posts from that part of the world.
Maho Bay Camps: A true eco-resort in St John, USVI
If waking to the sounds of thrumping tree frogs and the gentle sloshing of waves kissing a sugary beach -- not to mention one of the most amazing sunrise views in the hemisphere -- appeals to you, you need to move Maho Bay Camps to the top of your travel short list immediately. All this, and it's a truly "green" resort, too. Roughly 1100 miles southeast of Miami sits one of America's most precious resources: the United States Virgin Islands. Named by Christopher Columbus for Saint Ursula and her 11,000 virgins, the former mouthful "Santa Ursula y las Once Mil Vírgenes" has mercifully been shortened to the Virgin Islands, but it still casts the same kind of mythical charm over both first-time and regular visitors alike.
Today, the US Virgin Islands consist of three main islands: St. Thomas, known for its cruise-ship-friendly mega-port, Charlotte Amalie; St Croix, a (largely) working-class island boasting some excellent scuba diving; and St John, 75% of which is national park and therefore: pristine, lush, verdant. Think: America's jungle.
Considering how untouched St John is, it makes sense for the island to host "green" hotels. In 1976 -- long before the phrase "eco-resort" even existed -- a visionary named Stanley Selengut decided untrammeled St John needed a self-sufficient hotel integrated seamlessly into the natural vegetation. To that end, he set about creating Maho Bay Camps. Today, Maho's resort shines as perhaps the single finest example of an ecologically-friendly, low-impact resort in the world. Moreover, given its unspoiled, undeveloped location, this place is truly a hidden gem. Gallery: Maho Bay's Tent Camp, USVI
On the northwest edge of St John, overlooking idyllic Maho Bay -- and the widest stretch of beach on the entire island -- Maho Bay Camps are essentially numerous canvas-sided tent-cabins framed with composite lumber. In order to harmonize
with the environment -- rather than simply replace it -- Maho's tent-cabins are built onto raised 16' x16' platforms, and all the buildings, from the admin offices to the restaurant (at right), are connected by nearly three miles of raised walkways to prevent vegetation from being trampled. In fact, ground cover and other plant and animal life flourish beneath the raised walkways and tent-cabins, and the trees and shrubs grow emphatically around both, making the camp feel like a natural extension of the hillside.For those who think "eco-resorts" have to be uncomfortable or primitive, let's dispel that myth right now: Maho's 114 tent-cabins are, while simple, more than adequate for comfortable, long-term living. In fact, each tent-cabin has --
- electricity and a fan
- two beds and a sofa
- a propane stove and cookware
- a lock box for securing valuables
- an ice chest and storage containers for drinking water
- killer views of a diamond-tipped bay
* Guests need to bring two padlocks (one for the door to their tent-cabin and one for their room's lockbox). Guests are also advised to bring: mosquito repellent, beach towels, and a flashlight.
- recycling 100% of aluminum cans, glass, and clear plastic bottles (including using some of the glass in the on-site artists' studio)
- installing rain water catchments that collect 345,000 gallons of rainwater per year, for use in the laundry and restroom facilities
- reusing 2000-7000 gallons of "gray water" per day as irrigation for the adjacent terraced orchard
- operating aeration tanks to break down wastewater
- saving 12,000-15,000 gallons of water per year with waterless urinals
- running high-efficiency photovoltaic roof panels provide energy for lights, appliances and other equipment
- morphing "trash" as diverse as garbage bags, old automobiles, ketchup bottles and light bulbs
Fly into neighboring St Thomas (there are non-stop flights daily out of Ft Lauderdale, New York, and Baltimore). On the ground, take a cab to the ferry at Red Hook ($10/person), and then take the ferry to St John's Cruz Bay ($5/person). In Cruz Bay, look for Frett's Taxi, which runs a shuttle service to the camp ($13/person).
- various water sports, such as snorkeling (turtles frequent a reef an easy 10 minute swim from the beach); scuba diving; sailing; and sea kayaking (Whistling Cay is an uninhabited island in the bay, perfect for picnics);
- a variety of art classes, yoga, and massage;
- land-based excursions, like hiking trips to preserved ruins (both self-guided and, um, guide-guided);
- and of course, just 118 steps from the main boardwalk, there's a large white beach spilling onto a sparkling aquamarine bay. If the dozen-or-so folks sunning on the beach seems oppressive, within 10 minutes, you can be sitting on Francis Bay -- and probably have that beach exclusively to yourself for the bulk of that day.
Additional resources:
- See ... photos of Maho Bay on Flickr.
- Watch ... a video detailing Maho's tent-cabins on YouTube.
- Learn ... pertinent information on the USVI from the official tourism site.
- Understand ... the islands from the USVI's official Twitter account.
Hope remains that the Trust for Public Land will be successful in their efforts to purchase Maho's 14 acres from the private owners. However, as the time draws near, we must assume that Maho will close its tent flaps at the stroke of midnight, July 31, 2011.
Fortunately, this means there's still time for you to visit ... but you'd better hurry.
Filed under: Paddling, North America, United States, Hotels and Accommodations, Camping, Ecotourism, Caribbean










Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
elizabeth Jun 23rd 2009 10:12AM
so glad I found this from your twitter... copied and will read on trip...
so excited to read about your adventure!
ee
pls send a link if you choose to write about sailing.. too. thanks
Morgan Jun 23rd 2009 2:04PM
Be sure to check out the St. Croix Scenic 50 Running Race page to learn more about St. Croix’s first ever Ultra-Distance running race!
The 1st annual St. Croix Scenic 50 will be held on January 24, 2010.
After many discussions and much anticipation, a race has been born! The St. Croix Scenic 50 course promises to be as challenging as it is beautiful.
What better way to see this gem of the Caribbean than to run over a good portion of its rugged mountains and along its stunning shoreline?
The Buccaneer St. Croix has special rates for the St. Croix Scenic 50 on January 24, 2010, The St. Croix Coral Reef Swim in October, The St. Croix Half marathon and full marathon on Dec 6, and The Caribbean Classic Olympic Distance Triathlon on November 8.
Visit www.thebuccaneer.com for more information about these fabulous events.
Green Accommodations Jun 26th 2009 6:59PM
It's too bad there weren't more visionairies such as Stanley Selengut, but it is good to see more and more people in all areas of concern focused on going "Green" and, of course, we should be particular to patronize "Green" accommodations whether traveling for business or holiday. Until a preponderance of facilities have been either constructed or converted, however, ascertaining which truly are "Green" - or just "greenwashed" - can be problematic!
A dedicated "Green" web site, http://www.istaygreen.org, is helping to make environmentally friendly lodging easy to find and book.
iStayGreen.org is currently the most frequented online booking site for "Green" lodging. Over 3,500 of the properties listed are environmentally friendly and have been awarded the Green Eco-Leaf
Rating.
The eco initiatives of the property are clearly listed. Users are encouraged to contribute "Green" Reviews and environmentally rate the hotels they visit.
It's like Tripadvisor - Facebook - Travelocity all together in one site for the environmentally conscious traveler.
Bibi Jul 17th 2009 1:59PM
Thanks for this great article about Maho! I loved it and its sister camp, Concordia. I was a lucky participant in the Virgin Bloggers' Bootcamp in the US VI organized by http://www.soelesewhere.com We also stayed at Water Island Campgrounds on Water Island off of St. Thomas which took its inspiration from Maho. The three camps made a wonderful eco-trip. I also got to see the other side of the US VI by staying at a luxurious villa (also 'green') called South Shore Villa and a charming B&B, The Chrystal Palace. You can read all about the trip and see lots of photos on http://www.flashnomad.com It was a trip I would love to do again!