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Life Nomadic: Beating The Moroccan Hustle
I have a lot of great things to say about Morocco, and I'll get to those soon. Today, though, I'm going to talk about an insane part of the culture that can be found everywhere from Tangier to Marakkech: the hustle.
As a visitor who doesn't speak the language, I'm only really able to interact with a small percentage of the population. Of those people I interacted with, I'd say that a good ninety percent of them are full fledged hustlers.
What do I mean by hustlers? I mean people who are hell bent on getting money from you, whether it's through lying, aggressive salesmanship, or cheating. They don't cross that fine line from cheating to stealing, though.
The biggest scam is the outright price change. We became so used to this one that as shocking as it was the first time it happened, we had come to expect it by the end. Here's a real life example of how it works:
The Price Bump
Determined to ride camels in the desert, we hired a taxi driver to take us seven hours south of Fez to the edge of the desert. On the way we made phone calls to different tour companies and arranged for a one night camel ride into the desert, including lodging, food, and return by minibus to Marrakech the next day. Already brutally familiar with the Price Bump, we three times clearly articulated how much we were to pay, 300 Dirhams each, and what we were to receive.
We got to the desert and were met by a friendly man from the tour company who we had been in touch with. Moroccans are genuinely warm and friendly, even the hustlers, and he was no exception. We had a great time in the desert, and after breakfast the next day the man from the tour company came to see us.
"Do you need a bus to Marrakech? 350 Dirhams each."
Yes, he was trying to charge us more for the bus that was supposed to be included already than we had agreed to pay for the entire tour. It was the only bus to Marrakech that day and was leaving in fifteen minutes.
How do you deal with the Price Bump? The only way to win is to refuse to give a single dirham more. When you show your surprise at the new price, the hustler will always try to act compassionate and bring the price down a bit, trying to get you to renegotiate.
I'd fallen for it the first couple times (orange juice salesman are ruthless), but I'd had enough. I made it very clear that not only was I not going to pay any more than we'd already agreed, but that I also wasn't going to leave until he put me on a bus. I kept my feet planted and my money in my pocket.
He finally relented and let us on the bus with a smile.
Super Aggressive Salesmen
It sometimes seems like everyone in Morocco is either selling something or is acting as an agent for someone selling something. "Need hash? Get high before you fly" may as well be a national slogan. I don't care where point A and B are; traveling between them will absolutely result in someone following you, belting out some sort of sales pitch.
If you make the mistake of actually talking to one of the would-be salesmen, he won't leave until you get where you're going, and often times will follow you inside.
The salesmen in shops are brutal. They'll try to make you articulate which of their wares you like best, even if you say you're not interested, and start the bargaining shortly after. They'll tell you that even if you're a poor student who doesn't have any need for a fine wool rug, you should buy five to sell back at home.
The key to dealing with aggressive salesmen is to first realize that you're under no obligation to buy anything, whether they approach you or you go into their store. Ignoring people who approach you, even if it's with friendly conversation, is the only way to stave off the roaming touts.
Unfortunately...
By the end of the trip I'd started to like the bargaining battlefield and even the bait and switch price gouging. It was offensive, but somehow perversely satisfying to stand my ground and win. The casualty of being jaded, which is the only way to cope with the hustle, is that you miss out on meeting the really amazing friendly Moroccans.
In the beginning we'd talk to everyone who stopped us to ask where we were from. Ninety percent would then pester us relentlessly about something or other, but the remaining ten percent became our friends: people who showed us around Morocco, shared its stories, and became familiar faces around the Medina.
I'd recommend that everyone visit Morocco. It's very different from Western culture, has a lot of great historic things to see, and truly has the best orange juice in the world. But be prepared for the hustle-- we weren't.
"Do you need a bus to Marrakech? 350 Dirhams each."
Yes, he was trying to charge us more for the bus that was supposed to be included already than we had agreed to pay for the entire tour. It was the only bus to Marrakech that day and was leaving in fifteen minutes.
How do you deal with the Price Bump? The only way to win is to refuse to give a single dirham more. When you show your surprise at the new price, the hustler will always try to act compassionate and bring the price down a bit, trying to get you to renegotiate.
I'd fallen for it the first couple times (orange juice salesman are ruthless), but I'd had enough. I made it very clear that not only was I not going to pay any more than we'd already agreed, but that I also wasn't going to leave until he put me on a bus. I kept my feet planted and my money in my pocket.
He finally relented and let us on the bus with a smile.
Super Aggressive Salesmen
It sometimes seems like everyone in Morocco is either selling something or is acting as an agent for someone selling something. "Need hash? Get high before you fly" may as well be a national slogan. I don't care where point A and B are; traveling between them will absolutely result in someone following you, belting out some sort of sales pitch.
If you make the mistake of actually talking to one of the would-be salesmen, he won't leave until you get where you're going, and often times will follow you inside.
The salesmen in shops are brutal. They'll try to make you articulate which of their wares you like best, even if you say you're not interested, and start the bargaining shortly after. They'll tell you that even if you're a poor student who doesn't have any need for a fine wool rug, you should buy five to sell back at home.
The key to dealing with aggressive salesmen is to first realize that you're under no obligation to buy anything, whether they approach you or you go into their store. Ignoring people who approach you, even if it's with friendly conversation, is the only way to stave off the roaming touts.
Unfortunately...
By the end of the trip I'd started to like the bargaining battlefield and even the bait and switch price gouging. It was offensive, but somehow perversely satisfying to stand my ground and win. The casualty of being jaded, which is the only way to cope with the hustle, is that you miss out on meeting the really amazing friendly Moroccans.
In the beginning we'd talk to everyone who stopped us to ask where we were from. Ninety percent would then pester us relentlessly about something or other, but the remaining ten percent became our friends: people who showed us around Morocco, shared its stories, and became familiar faces around the Medina.
I'd recommend that everyone visit Morocco. It's very different from Western culture, has a lot of great historic things to see, and truly has the best orange juice in the world. But be prepared for the hustle-- we weren't.
Filed under: Morocco, Life Nomadic
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Mike Barish Jun 17th 2009 12:41PM
Tynan-
I'm fortunate enough to have olive skin and a dark beard...in other words, I can blend in while in Morocco. When I was there, my friends and I were largely left alone because it was assumed that I was our guide and the group was already spoken for.
So, my advice to travelers: Bring a friend who can blend in with the locals.
Better advice: GO TO MOROCCO. GO TO MARRAKECH. GET THE OJ! Tynan, spot on with that assessment for sure!
mb
Jeff Jun 17th 2009 2:55PM
The hustling was the biggest surprise for me, when I visited Marrakech in mid-April. It was like nonstop. From the first minute I was in the Djeema el Fna with my luggage to when I was waiting for the bus to the airport, the young in old pestered nonstop. But by the end, I felt the same way, ready for the challenge and the feeling from not budging! Definitely worth the hassling and hustling, though!
BrianM Jun 17th 2009 6:22PM
Any tips for finding a guide that can help you deal with this and avoiding the hussle?
JimmyC Jun 18th 2009 8:05AM
My first experience of 'the hustle' caught my by surprise as well. Our first night there we wandered down to the main square in Marakech, Djemaa el Fna, to absorb the vibrancy of the evening. The place was packed with locals and tourists alike, the former hustling for all they're worth, the latter often looking slightly bewildered.
We were approached by a group of women who were set up to paint Henna on your hands - they were surrounded by picture books containing amazing dye art, which had caught our attention. They grabbed our hands and began drawing unrecognisable scribbles on them, before demanding money. When we refused to pay they became a bit irate and we ended up giving them a token payment and walking away.
The lesson we quickly learned is that you have to keep to yourself and be polite but very firm when saying, "La Shukran".
Eric Bomblatus Jul 21st 2009 12:42AM
Que tal?
I have recently returned from a fabulous trip in Buenos Aires. I spent a month taking Spanish lessons for my own enrichment (and college credit). I also saw and experienced many incredible things, to be vague. It was truly life changing.
I'd love to tell you more about Buenos Aires. You have to go! I know a few people who are very helpful and I can also give you my own advice. Send me an email when you have the opportunity.
Last remark: You've once mentioned to me a really great language-learning program you used for Japanese. Could you please give me the details?
Niels Bom Aug 14th 2009 4:43AM
I heard that in the country's capital Marrakech it used to be worse but then the king decided that for the tourists' comfort the hustlers couldn't hustle that hard any more. Interesting country though :)
John Sep 9th 2009 11:21PM
Assuming all your valuables are safely on your person, just stare at the person without responding with words or non-verbal cues.
Eventually the aggressive person will walk away thinking that your are an idiot or deaf.
Don't look at their hands or the merchandise or anything other than their eyes.
No positive response and no negative response drives these people bonkers.
If your up to it, follow them into the store (with your friend tagging along and doing the same as you), follow them into the store and continue to just stare at their eyes whatever they show you or say.
The coup de grace is to say shukran when they gesture for you to leave.
Chemis Sep 22nd 2009 6:13AM
That place is just amazing, of course it took me two days to stop looking from my left to the right shoulder to feel that I am safe and not going to be kidnapped :P
I miss it..thanks for bringing back some great memories.
Best wishes, Chema from sweden
aureliainkaos Jun 15th 2010 8:31PM
I loved living in Morocco. I never got hustled though. A couple people tried, but I have a husband, three brothers in law, three sisters in law and a mother in law who wouldn't let anyone mess with me. Of course I lived in a neighborhood where everyone knew everyone else and knew I was the only American living there. Also, the only American most had ever actually seen. On our forays to the Medina (which were often!) sometimes the locals would approach me speaking French, thinking I was a Euro tourist. But that only lasted a second until whoever I was with made it clear not to mess with me. I miss being there so much.