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Budget Travel: San Juan, PR
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Summary: One of the frequent knocks on the Caribbean is that many of the islands (not all) are nothing more than receptacles for tourists. That there's no real dynamic culture and sense of place. But this statement also ignores the fact that millions of Americans head to the Caribbean each year, and many of them are looking for nothing more than a cheap vacation with a beautiful beach and a frosty drink in a coconut. I can't say that I blame them.
That said, we're here to tell you that San Juan, Puerto Rico is the perfect combination of all these factors - affordability, authentic local culture and beautiful, warm sandy beaches. As the capital and largest city on the island of Puerto Rico, San Juan is a city with a surprising diversity of options for visitors. It's among the oldest cities in the Western Hemisphere, having been founded in 1521 by the Spanish. The history is strongly felt wherever you might wander in San Juan, whether it's a visit to the imposing El Morro fortress or a walk along the fading beauty of Old San Juan's cobblestone streets.
That's nothing to say of the glitzy nightlife and beaches of Condado, or the untouched beaches and lush rainforests within an hour's drive of the capital. Ready to be amazed by one of the most underrated (and cheap) destinations in the Caribbean? Come along for our Budget Guide to San Juan...
Getting in: Most travelers from the contintental United States will arrive at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport, the central hub for many flights into and out of the Caribbean. The airport is served by almost all major U.S. carriers, and your chances of finding a deal during peak season are fairly good. As of the time of this posting, just about every major U.S. city east of the Mississipi River was offering round trip January fares to San Juan for between $200 - $300 per person.
Once you've arrived, it's easy enough to grab a taxi into the city center. Rates are typically around $10 - $20 depending on if you're going all the way into Old San Juan or to the outlying hotels. The frugal can also take the B40 bus, which will bring you to Isla Verde or Rio Piedras, where you can connect to other buses including the A5 to the city center. Total bus cost is .50-.75 cents.
Where to stay: San Juan offers a surprisingly diverse cluster of different neighborhoods, ranging from the glitzy and glamorous to the historic and atmospheric. It all depends on what you're looking for out of your trip. - For our money's worth, the place to stay in San Juan is in Old San Juan, a picturesque neighborhood of cobblestone streets, elegant public squares and quietly crumbling facades. It's been experiencing a resurgence in recent years, with hordes of great restaurants, bars, galleries and shopping. The best way to go is to rent your own apartment in one of the beautiful old buildings that dot the area. If you don't want the hassle though, Hotel Milano and Caleta Guest House have rooms starting at under $100/night.
- Just east of Old San Juan is the glitzy neighborhood of Condado, sight of many of Puerto Rico's best hotels and resorts. Condado is the tried and true tourist hotspot of San Juan, bordered on one side by a heavily trafficked beach and avenues lined with casinos and fancy boutiques. It's not necessarily the most authentic part of Puerto Rico, but for non-stop action it can't be beat. Unless you want to drop a wad of hundreds at a fancy resort, the At Wind Chimes Inn has reasonably priced rooms starting around $110/night.
- A little closer to the airport is Isla Verde, another main tourist drag. Though Isla Verde is technically not part of San Juan, it's conveniently situated next to the airport and close enough you can still easily head into San Juan proper if you want to soak up some culture or fine dining. It's also got its fair share of lovely sandy beaches, Pina Coladas and casino action, so don't despair. Rumor has it that the Holiday Inn is the place to stay. It's nothing fancy, but still clean and a good bargain.
- El Morro: San Juan was originally the last stopover for Spanish galleons loaded with gold and silver bound for the mother country. As such the city founders built the imposing El Morro stone fortress at the mouth of the harbor to protect it from pirate and enemy attacks. Today the fort is a National Park and one of San Juan's top tourist attractions. And the entrance fee? Only $3 for those over 16. On Sundays the locals flock to the vast parade grounds in front of the fortress to fly thousands of kites in San Juan's vigorous tradewinds.
- Old San Juan Wandering: Spend an afternoon and an evening wandering the atmospheric streets of Old San Juan. Each corner is filled with a wealth of surprises - from delicious mallorcas at La Bombonera, to sizzling live salsa music at the Nuyorican Cafe to the overflowing art galleries and restaurants of Calle Fortaleza, the area's newest hotspot. Unless you buy a new painting for the living room, you're sure to end your visit with a few bucks left for breakfast the next day.
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El Yunque: If you're feeling adventurous, there's no better way to get a sense of the island of Puerto Rico than renting a car ($40-$50/day). Grab a GPS and head for El Yunque National Forest, one of the island's most beautiful natural wonders and only about an hour's drive from San Juan. As the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System, El Yunque features an astonishing diversity of wildlife, plenty of hiking trails and some refreshing waterfalls where you can stop for a swim. Cost to get in? Free.
- Hit the beach: There's a number of beaches within the confines of San Juan if you're looking to soak up a few rays. Condado has a strip of sand where you can kick back, throw around a frisbee and have a swim. It's not the most picturesque beach but certainly convenient. If you really want to see the best of Puerto Rico's beaches, take that rental car I mentioned and point it at Luquillo Beach, one of the most beautiful in all of Puerto Rico and only about an hour from San Juan. Along the edge are food vendors selling roast pork, mofongo and other Puerto Rican specialties.
Filed under: Budget Travel
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Corey O Jan 14th 2009 12:53PM
I just visited San Juan over Christmas. It was beautiful, but the worst part was that we stayed at the classic Hilton Caribe. The hotel is nice, but the location sucks and the hotel has no local food, besides the $14 Pina Colada. With the taxi situation, $12 to Old San Juan one-way (+$2 person over 5 people). Dinner's immediately were expensive because the bus is not safe in the evening.
Jeremy Kressmann Jan 14th 2009 1:03PM
Hey Corey, glad you enjoyed your trip to San Juan. I really enjoyed it when I was there last year.
That's unfortunate about your hotel - I had better luck renting an apartment in Old San Juan. It was much closer to food and nightlife. Perhaps if you ever go back, you'll know for next time!
Jamie Rhein Jan 14th 2009 1:40PM
Jeremy, after reading your descriptions, I so want to go here. The blend of scenery, culture and history sound perfect.
Robert Jan 14th 2009 5:20PM
Jeremy,
as a gringo in PR, I have to agree with your suggestions, and if I might, i'd also suggest Da House in Old San Juan for budget accomodations, and a day trip to Ponce, on Puerto Rico's south (Caribbean) coast.
If a few days away from SJ are an option, I suggest hitting up Rincon on the NW of the island, and Cabo Rojo on the SW.
Jeremy Kressmann Jan 14th 2009 5:25PM
Robert - glad you liked the ideas. Da House is another great pick in Old San Juan - I actually decided not to include it in this writeup because the rooms were slightly more expensive ($120) than those at Caleta.
Thanks for the other good thoughts! I'm definitely going to check out Ponce next time I head back (and trust me, I will be back).
cholulo1 Jan 15th 2009 11:32AM
wow. what a nice and informative piece on pr! i plan on visiting in July and i was wondering how you went about finding an apt. in san juan. are there agencies or newspapers that offer these services? thanks.
Jeremy Kressmann Jan 15th 2009 11:36AM
Glad you liked it, cholulo1! As far as renting an apartment, I would check www.vrbo.com. They have a bunch of great properties for rent in the Old San Juan neighborhood, and often at much better rates than it would cost to stay at a hotel. Craigslist also has a "Vacation Rentals" section on their page for Puerto Rico.
k Jan 15th 2009 6:41PM
If you enjoy a more metropolitan atmosphere and can spend a bit more (though they often run phenomenal specials) I highly recommend Isla Verde's El San Juan hotel. It's an absolutely gorgeous old building restored with a distinct art-deco & post-modern flair. Gorgeous pools, awesome restaurants (including the Palm steakhouse), lovely beach, and upscale shopping. It also has a casino, very active nightlife populated by beautiful locals and tourists alike, and tennis court. A perfect escape from my midwinter doldrums and quaint rural existence...even when I travel there on business. Traditional, maybe not, but pretty darn close to paradise when it's 3 degrees back home!