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Behind the Olympics: Hidden Beijing or what NBC won't tell you

Chances are, the average Olympics-goer in Beijing will walk away from the trip thinking China's capital is some blue-sky traffic-free English-friendly capitalist paradise. Well, the capitalist part is no doubt true. But the trouble with Olympic tourism is that by the nature of such events, it's hard to get past the veneer painted on by the host country.
I spent last year reporting from China, partly on buildup to the Olympics. Of course, most of my "Beijing expertise" comes from those countless nights getting lost in the big city. Though I'm not a local in any stretch of the word, here's what I know about getting a taste of the real Beijing.
Drinking. I would dare to say Beijing is a drinker's oasis in a country that rather would stick to tea. This may have something to do with all those diplomatics and their expense tabs for alcohol, but even locals are getting into the swing of things. Of course, I still remember ordering a Guinness last year in a bar and tasting soy sauce in what was probably a Bud.
That pretty much describes the level of sophistication at Sanlitun and Houhai, the two bar districts primarily geared towards expats and foreigners. The real joints are tucked away--The Tree is one of them. For up-to-date insight on watering holes, see this blog and Time Out's "best Beijing bars" issue.
Eating. OK, I would have to agree with the guide books on this one. For a place chock full with any sort of Chinese food you could want (crawfish and hot pots are its specialty), you have to go to "ghost street" or guijie in Chinese. Then there's the obligatory slew of Peking duck restaurants.
The guidebooks here all recommend one particular chain found near Tiananmen Square--Quan Ju De. The place has photos splattered all over of foreign dignitaries like Castro and Bush, who have made the visit. But ha! The joke's on them. These chains are pretty overpriced and to tell you the truth, the locals don't really go there (like eating at Times Square).
Clubbing. Beijing nightlife is experiencing a renaissance almost as unprecedented as its current architectural one. The traditionalists will gravitate towards the crowd favorites: World of Suzie Wong and GT Banana while the indie fanboys are flocking to LAN and Block 8. Oh, and to give you a taste of how crazy things are getting, the government recently had to shut down secret rave parties that were getting out of control on, you guessed it, the Great Wall.
Seeing. Yes, you'll have to see the obligatory attractions--Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, Great Wall, though I hear the crowds aren't as bad as you would think during this time. One thought. Do not go to the Badaling Wall, unless you're looking for something made in the 1970s (OK might have been a few years earlier). More authentic sections are at Mutianyu, Jinshanling, Simatai, and Jiankou, in increasing orders of "wildness".
I've been to all four and recommend each of them, though Mutianyu is probably for more of the older crowd who want to play it safe. Some more off-the-beaten-path sights that I even haven't seen include the "Long Corridor" and Juer Hutong.
Filed under: Arts and Culture






Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Eva Aug 15th 2008 2:07PM
"some blue-sky traffic-free English-friendly capitalist paradise."
Hey Jerry, unless they find some hallucinogens, no one visiting Beijing is going to think blue skies enter into it! :D
I just got back, and still managed to nearly get killed by the traffic repeatedly, in between wandering around in search of someone who spoke English. I'm sure the authorities did their best, but they couldn't clean it all up in time for the Games...
My take here:
http://www.worldhum.com/weblog/item/first_impressions_in_beijing_not_so_sanitized_after_all_20080808/
Bane Aug 18th 2008 12:21PM
As I have heard people around me saying that the fireworks were actually computer generated with photo shop. In reality they could do condsidering that they do have the technology, they do own the staions that broad cast to America, they are twelve hours ahead of us so time is not an obstlcle. There are many more theriores but this is the one i find that co-insides with the reality and facts. Do you agree that this theiory could be true? I for myself am doing reaserch, although no one here could tell what is true and what is not. Think about it.