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Belize it or not: Diving the Blue Hole
Yesterday, I made one of my life-long dreams come true. I dove the Great Blue Hole, a submarine cave about 45 miles off the coast of Belize. They say after diving it, divers are usually either utterly disappointed or absolutely blown away. I found it absolutely amazing.
The Great Blue Hole is circular, over 1,000 feet (330 meters) across and 400 feet (120 meters) deep. It was formed as a limestone cave system during the last ice age. As the ocean began to rise again, the caves flooded, and the roof collapsed.
The trip
To get to the Blue Hole, we booked a diving with the operator Aqua Dives Belize. They offer a $199 per person special now, which was the cheapest deal going, from what I could see. It includes the boat trip out there, breakfast, lunch (on a tiny caye on the same atoll) plus yummy rum punch (after diving), purified drinking water, 3 tanks and weight belts.
(We'd tried Ambergris Divers earlier, and found their staff friendly and competent, but we preferred Aqua Dives and their newer equipment.)
You start out at 5:30am, and make a 3-hour boat ride from Ambergris Caye to Lighthouse Reef. After a total of three dives, they get you back at 5:30pm.
The trip to the Lighthouse Reef, which the Blue Hole is a part of, goes through some rough waters. People were getting sick on the boat, which is always the "fun" part about diving. Isn't that funny that there is always that one girl who throws up on the way to the reef. (That girl is typically me, but it wasn't yesterday. I took half a Dramamine, which is not a great idea before diving since it makes you drowsy, but I survived!)
[Here is a question for you. Why is it always girls who get seasick? You never see guys throwing up from fishing boats.]
We parked the boat right in the middle of the Blue Hole. Eight divers with two instructors (one in the front, one in the back) descended with us to the depths of 140 ft (45 meters). As you descend, you see great stalactites which cover the cave. You don't see a lot of fish. In fact, we only had couple of solitary bull sharks swimming with us, which was way cool.
The sheer drama of swimming among the stalactites makes it almost a religious experience. I caught myself forgetting I was under water. Some people might see the "lack of fish" as boring, but I found it incredible. Never saw anything like that in my life.
This was the deepest dive I have ever done. I, naturally, found the breathing much harder than breathing at, say, 80 feet. The air is denser and you feel like you have to breathe harder.
Since it is a pretty deep dive, I'd heard some people experience nitrogen narcosis, which--using the dive master's term--means they get a "little crazy." They have had people taking their masks off at that depths, taking their regulator out of their mouths, wanting to go deeper and deeper, and cut themselves from hugging the stalactites. Obviously, going to the full depth of 400 ft is not possible, but that apparently doesn't prevent some people from trying. Several people have died diving the Blue Hole (I knew of one of them).
You're only in the water for about 25 minutes, and down at 130-140 feet for about 8 minutes (due to the depth), but every second was worth it. A sandy ledge slopes down from near the surface, down to about 50 ft. Then, it's straight down a vertical wall to about 110 ft. Then, you're in the cave. You swim in and around stalactites that are easily 3 ft or more in diameter, and underneath the old cave's "ceiling."
Below you, at about 170 ft, you can see another sandy ledge. It looks so close that you could reach out with your leg and touch it. It's like you're swimming in a cathedral, with the stalactites forming statues hanging from the arched ceiling.
It's magic how you can watch the bubbles ascend the walls, and see the light and wall above you. You can see tiny creatures living on the walls and stalactites. A diving light is not necessary due to the clarity and complete lack of current.
Recommendations
I thought the dive masters did a great job preparing everyone for the dive, repeating all the underwater hand gestures, safety instructions, etc. I was surprised that me and my buddy were the most experienced divers on board, having been certified for only 6 years. The rest of the divers all had less than two years of diving experience. Those are some gutsy people. I don't think I would have gone down 140 ft with that little experience.
I actually would not recommend the dive to beginners. Not because it's that difficult (although the depth makes it more technical), but because I don't think as a beginner, you quite appreciate how special the Blue Hole is. As a beginner, all you want to see is big and colorful stuff - fish and corals. Plus, you should be very relaxed in order to really get the most of it. As an experienced diver, you have seen all those things that beginners want to see-- sharks, turtles, eel, lobsters -- and seeing something as stark as the Blue Hole is actually quite powerful.
Filed under: Scuba Diving, Belize










Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
VagabondFrank Jul 16th 2008 12:55AM
Here's the deal, folks.
I'm slightly terrified of deep ocean, I'm usually alright with being in it, seeing as how the ocean gets progressively deeper. However, a sudden hole in the middle of what is mostly shallow water... I'll pass! Ha! Let's talk about it!
VagabondFrank
travel chat:
http://www.chat-zoo.com
Matthew Firestone Jul 16th 2008 2:33AM
Greetings from Big in Africa! I loved the Blue Hole, and would definitely rank it in my top 5 dives. In fact, the only place in the world that I loved more was The Thistlegorm & Ras Mohammed in Egypt. Definitely check out Red Sea diving on your next overseas excursion!
Unknown Jul 17th 2008 7:19PM
Yeah, I went to Egypt before I was certified...Definitely want to go back. Thanks for the tip.
Have fun in Africa!
Kent Wien Jul 16th 2008 10:40AM
I'd love to try it, Iva! But as a very non-current novice, I'll wait until I get a few more dives under my 'weight belt.'
Loved experiencing it through you, though!
Todd Bradley Jul 16th 2008 12:17PM
Your comments about only women getting sea sick is exactly opposite of my own experience. I've only been diving about 4 years, but so far I've seen 3 or 4 times as many men hurl as women. In fact, I think my wife is the only female diver who's gotten sick on one of our dives, and she did it so gracefully I didn't even know until she told me after the fact.
Iva Skoch Jul 17th 2008 7:21PM
Ha! I am glad to hear that!
Brenda Jul 16th 2008 1:04PM
Iva, I'm enjoying your dispatches from Belize. Happy to hear that you're enjoying the diving.
I'm a former divemaster and I've never been seasick, which I know is rather rare. My father was a submariner in the US Navy, so perhaps I've inherited his sea legs. I just don't seem to be affected by motion sickness, and I know that I'm lucky that way. However, having worked as a divemaster on dive boats, I have to say that in my experience, men get seasick equally as much as women do. I do notice that they try to hide it a bit more than women, and often try to lean over the side of the boat without being noticed.
Willy Jul 16th 2008 2:50PM
140' is beyond the recommended limits for the average recreational diver -- even with a diver:guide ratio of 4:1. That said, it sounds like a relatively easy dive, and there's virtually no current (or so I hear). I've never been here, but it's on my list. I'm happy you got the experience.
Brenda Jul 16th 2008 7:35PM
Yeah, 140' at 8 minutes bottom time, on regular air is definitely pushing the tables! 120' at 6 minutes bottom time is all that I would allow my divers...now, if you're breathing nitrox...:)..of course, one needs to be properly trained for that! :)
Iva Skoch Jul 17th 2008 7:22PM
You think they were trying to kill us??? :-)
Brenda SFO Jul 18th 2008 3:28PM
Nah Iva..:)...but it never hurts to check your dive tables and bottom times. I've seen some questionable divers leading dives in different countries, and it's always better to be safe than sorry. I've seen people get bent when they were staying within the tables and did the proper decompression stops on ascent. I always liked to be a bit conservative on my dive profiles because I never knew which divers had been out partying hard the night before, what kind of shape they were in, etc. (things that might make one more susceptible to decompression sickness)
saigondash Jul 16th 2008 10:01PM
I used to like Belize. That is until 2 of my friends were murdered there recently. The were Americans that had become naturalized Belize citizens, having lived there for 19 years. Several years ago they ran a sailing/dive tour business but had evolved to the land developement business. When they were murdered July 4th weekend, I began to read the Belizian on-line newspapers to get updates on the progress of finding the people responsible for the deaths of 2 very good people. To my surprise, murder is very common in Belize these days. I will not be going back to Belize. It is not a safe place to be. A shame. Such a beautiful place, such a very dangerous place. Check it out before you go.
Fred Jul 17th 2008 4:28PM
We have been to Belize 9 times and have dived the Blue Hole twice with Aqua Divers. We obviously love it there and find San Pedro safe and friendly.
The Blue Hole is an uninteresting deep dive until you get down to about 130'. Then the scenery gets exciting under the lip with the caverns and the bull sharks. Would gladly dive it again!!!
Rich Jul 19th 2008 4:19PM
My daughter and I flew into SanPedro and we did the excursion to the Blue Hole, the dive was beyond recreational dive limites but well worth the risk. I had no intentions of being in alert diver magazine as a statistic, so I planned my dive and dived my plan. We did meet up with a school of white tip sharks at depth and were treated to a brief shark ballet. My advice is get the right training for your diving and join DAN!
Rich Jul 19th 2008 5:25PM
My daughter and I flew into San Pedro and did the Blue Hole dive 7/29/99 I'am a certified NAUI AND PADI Diver since 1994. I admit 145' is beyond recreational dive limits, and I had no intention of becoming a statistic in Alert Diver magizine. So I planned my dive and dived my plan. We did run into a school of white tip sharks at depth, and watched as they performed a brief ballet on a back ground of midnite blue hue. So get certified, and join DAN, and dive the Blue Hole!
Brenda SFO Jul 20th 2008 12:13PM
DAN (Diver's Alert Network) is a wonderful organization! When I was pro-diving, I always kept my membership up. If I were a regular recreational diver, I would encourage a membership as well - lots of good benefits there!
I remember a well-known dive instructor buddy of mine on Maui got bent once and he hadn't been below 30 feet in weeks, but he was doing multiple certifications in Maui, which means popping up to the surface all the time with new divers, (up and down, up and down) and he was exhausted from the number of students he was certifying that week. He had a very mild hit of DCS, but DAN took over after his call to them, got him a low altitude flight to Oahu so he could spend some time in the recompression chamber, and he recovered completely.
I had ear problems after some exhausting diving in Hawaii, and upon my return to San Francisco, I called them and they had an ENT Dive medicine specialist from Stanford call me immediately.
Luna Jul 28th 2008 7:19PM
I've often wondered what it would be like to dive the Great Blue Hole and have never found a detailed description until now. I was certified in 1974 in Okinawa, my instructor a Navy SEAL, and dove to 150' a couple of times with him and a very experienced friend who taught me different techniques for breathing at different depths. This article and the comments about Egypt and the Red Sea make me wish I had never stopped. Thank you!
dagrappler Sep 15th 2008 3:35PM
My wife and I just got back from Belize, and we did have a great time... I have not been diving for a long time (I was certified in April 2008), but I didn't find the Blue Hole as challenging as everyone here seems to think it was. Going down 140' isn't as hard as long as you continue to equalize your pressure and keep your breathing regular, making sure to check your air pressure gague because you do suck a lot more air at that greater depth. My only problem was that the pressure destroyed the underwater camera I brought with me, the case was only certified for about 50-80 feet!
We also stayed at Ambergris Caye and dove with Aqua Dives, I appreciated their crew and boats very much. If anyone is reading this and going to dive at Ambergris Caye, don't forget to mention Turnafee Atoll which is a shorter day trip but has some of the most colorful diving I have seen yet. There are also some short local dives that you can do easily that are spectacular (Tackle Box and Esmerelda...Ask for them if you are only doing 1 day of diving- it's worth it!!!).
To me the Blue Hole Stalagtites/Mites were impressive but being buzzed by the reef sharks (apparently I guess us humans are their entertainment, because they are always observing the divers that go to the blue hole) and the two dives afterwords at Lighthouse Reef were well worth the 6 hours of choppy boatride...
By the way, OLD MARINER'S TRICK TO FIGHT SEASICKNESS: Fix your gaze on a stationary object outside the boat, such as land, clouds, or something on the horizon. If you concentrate on it, your mind can fight off any kind of nausea that you may be experiencing. Much better than loading up on drammamine which can dull your edge.
On the safety of Belize-- I think Ambergris Caye is pretty safe because it's very touristy, but Belize City itself seemed a little rough, I could see where there could be trouble "off the beaten path" but that holds true for many cities around the world...
Thanks again for the wonderful article, I wish I had read it before I left but it really covered the kind of experience we had there.
PS take a day off diving to go see the Mayan Ruins and/or the Belize zoo!