Cockpit Chronicles: Bombed in Paris
I managed to move my schedule around so I'd have the first 9 days of May off. My wife and kids had already left to visit my mother-in-law in Germany, so once I was finished working in April, I hopped on a Lufthansa flight to join up with them. Most pilots would rather have dental reconstruction than have to get on an airplane for their vacation, but, I really do like my mother-in-law, and we were all due for a visit to see her.By working my schedule to give me so much time off in the beginning of the month, I knew I'd be working without many days off for the rest of May. Sure enough, I managed to cram in a month's worth of flying into three weeks.
The day after arriving home from Germany, I went out on an early morning Miami turn with Captain Keith. I like to think I'm caught up on the happenings in the airline world, but that all goes out the window when I fly with Keith. He's the perfect source for the latest happenings in this business and I always feel up to date after flying with him. Unfortunately, I would only be flying the leg down to Miami and then deadheading home. Keith would continue on to Barbados with a Miami co-pilot. It seems the company is running a bit short of pilots and the only way to cover that first leg was to break up the trip--having a Boston co-pilot fly the first part with the remainder flown by the someone from the Miami base.
The next day I had a weekend Paris trip. Everyone is excited to fly to Paris once again. Years ago we flew this trip year-round, but now it's seasonal-from May until October-and it's become a very desirable destination for most of the crews. Occasionally the trip will become available to pick up or trade for, so there's hope, even for those of us at the bottom of the list. My goal was to trade into as many Paris trips as I could hold for the month of May. For a better idea how the seniority system works see this post.
We have one captain and two co-pilots on the flight to Paris. One of the co-pilots works as a 'relief pilot' or "FB," just like the Aruba turns. It's this pilot's job to allow the captain and later the co-pilot to take a 2 hour nap back in the business class cabin during the flight. When I can hold Paris trips, it's usually as an FB as that tends to be the more junior position.
But this time I lucked into the co-pilot position, which meant I'd at least get a landing in the 767, which we hardly ever see on our Caribbean trips out of Boston. Since I was the non-flying pilot (radio operator) for the flight over, I took the third break, which meant I'd come back to the cockpit about 40 minutes before landing and re-familiarize myself with the approach just before we'd start our descent. The flying pilot will typically take the second break in the middle of the flight so they have more time to set up for the arrival.

The air was rather clear and we enjoyed the view of the bright yellow rapeseed mixed in with the lush green patches of land all around France. It's not until you're just a few minutes from landing that you see any evidence of a city in the area. Like much of Europe, France has done a great job of avoiding the urban sprawl. The wind was from the east, so the captain, Al, was looking right into the sun for his landing on runway 08 right.

Al mostly flies Caribbean trips. We have a few pilots who would rather stay away from Europe trips all-together, perhaps because of the time zone changes or the terrible exchange rate between the dollar and the euro. Al had been avoiding the Paris flying, but he decided this time he'd give a full month of it a try to see if it would grow on him.
The relief pilot, Dave, brought his wife and 15 year-old son on the trip. It's a great opportunity for the family to see the sights, and I'm sure pilots and flight attendants relish the chance to show their family that these trips are actually rather tiring. Since my wife was previously a flight attendant for five years with another airline, she already has a good idea. After just one London trip from Boston, she was so exhausted from the time zone changes that she vowed to never again fly internationally.
After just a few of these trips, you develop a system to mitigate some of the fatigue. It's important to take a nap after arriving. It can be tempting to hit the streets right after checking into the hotel at 9 a.m.--especially when the weather is nice--but that leads to an early evening bedtime, after which you'll be awake to stare at the clock at midnight finally getting back to sleep just a few hours before the 11 a.m. pickup.
Because of this, almost everyone sleeps for 4 to 5 hours after getting to the hotel. That was the case this time, since Al and I planned to meet up in the lobby at 2 in the afternoon. It helps to have something planned out in advance. This works as a great motivator to drag me out of bed, and it keeps me from falling into the same routine that I tend to do on many of the Paris trips.
I recreated that routine perfectly for Al on this trip. It might start with a visit to the cash machine and/or a visit to the Monoprix grocery store down the street. Al exchanged $20, which gave him only 10.50 Euros. That's about enough for a few bottles of water, which we set out to find.
We walked north through the Luxembourg Gardens which can be quite amazing. Unfortunately the flowers were only recently planted for the season. But it's fun to see the kids sailing their rented toy sailboats across the pond. This time I noticed that a few of them had managed to score boats painted up as pirate ships. We stuck around to watch for a while, but there wasn't enough pillaging from these pirate boats to hold our interest.


There were Italian ice-cream stands all around, but I was especially impressed with the choices this one offered:

We picked up two bottles of water which, even at $4 each, felt great in the 75F/24C degree temperature.
Just north of the Luxembourg Gardens, is the Latin quarter. It's so named because of the Latin spoken by the students of the Sorbonne University hundreds of years ago. I suspect these students have given up on their conversational Latin though when ordering from a local Starbucks.

The narrow, easily walkable streets of this part of the city have made it my favorite hang out. I usually pick up a Crepe Nutella (chocolate crepe) from an outdoor vendor and either stop for a $12.50 pint of Guinness at The Mazet pub, or continue on to the river.
I grabbed a crepe, but I couldn't interest Al in one, and we elected to skip the pint of Guinness. We walked to Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in Paris. At the middle of the bridge is the tip of an island where there's a grass park. It's a nice place to hang out, and many couples enjoy the view while having a picnic of wine, bread and cheese there. Al commented on how much nicer it would be to have someone along to share it with (and no, a fellow pilot just doesn't count). Oh, well. At least the other pilot, Dave, was probably having a good time with his family somewhere in the city.

We strolled around the island, walking past couples sharing their wine and kissing under the warm sun. Families were laughing with their cute French-speaking kids, completely oblivious to our presence. An artist was finishing a charcoal drawing of a couple across the river who were staring into each other's eyes. Just then, BAM, a pigeon flew over Al and crapped on his leg and his water bottle.
Fortunately I knew of a free bathroom just a few hundred feet away. Al dropped his half full water bottle into the trash and he went into the bathroom to wash the lower part of his left pant leg off. He tried to dry it off with toilet paper before giving up and sitting out in the sun to let it air dry. I felt rather lucky to avoid the pigeon's bomb run.

It was time to continue our walk, so we went east away from Pont Neuf to Île Saint-Louis, which has some really nice restaurants and a wonderful place to grab an Italian ice-cream. It also has some of the most expensive real estate in Paris.
We worked our way back to the Latin quarter where we planned to meet up with some of the flight attendants at 5 p.m. We had intended to have dinner together at a nice restaurant, but unfortunately, they were across the city and couldn't make it in time. Stood up AND crapped on--what more could Paris offer? We decided to go to a cafe nearby.
After picking a great table next to the sidewalk, I ordered something I've never had in Paris before. A cheeseburger and fries--for just $23. If you can stop choking about the price, the cheeseburger was surprisingly good. It was cooked perfectly-not overdone at all-and the seasoning was ideal.

It was still rather early when we started to walk back towards the hotel. We passed the Paris Observatory on the way and I took a few pictures of it as the sun went down. They give tours just a few times a year, but the price is a steep 120 Euros.

I showed Al the bike owned by one of our captains that's locked up near the hotel. He brought it over a few pieces at a time and assembled it. Not a bad way to get around the city. A note to the owner, Captain John: I checked the tires, they're holding air well.

We stopped in at the crew lounge in the hotel, where pilots and flight attendants from different airlines often get together, eating cheese and sampling Monoprix wine. We could have had a few drinks there, since our flight left almost 18 hours later, but I was just too tired to visit much and since it was mother's day, I wanted to try to call my wife and mom with Skype to wish them a happy mother's day. Unfortunately the call quality was really bad, no doubt because of the slow connection at the hotel.
It's best if you can stay awake until at least 1 a.m. Any earlier and there's no way you'll be able to sleep all the way through. I just couldn't keep awake for another 4 hours, so I broke the night's sleep into two parts--a 2 hour nap and another longer doze that lasted 6 hours. 8 hours is about the most sleep you can get out of these trips, if you're lucky.
The next morning we visited with the rest of the crew before getting on the bus that takes us to the airport. Everyone had pretty much scattered to do their own thing the day before. And even Dave and his wife had dropped their exhausted son back at the hotel room before going out to Sacré Cœur and seeing the sights.

I thought it might be a nice thing for Dave to fly my leg back to Boston, since his family was on board. I've had another pilot do this for me (when my family was on board), so I figured it was time to spread the favor to someone else. Naturally the pressure was on Dave to make a great landing back in Boston and of course he did a wonderful job.

I have three more Paris trips this month. If you have any recommendations for things I must see or do, feel free to leave them in the comments. I might do a Versailles bike tour on one of the trips, but I'm open to suggestions for something new. Maybe you can help me break from my typical routine. (Update: I just got my schedule for next month. 6 more Paris trips! Is it possible to run out of things to do there? We'll soon find out!)
To see more pictures from the trip, take a look at the gallery below. Thanks for coming along!
Cockpit Chronicles takes you along on each of Kent's trips as a co-pilot on the Boeing 757 and 767 out of Boston.
Filed under: France, Airlines, Transportation, The Cockpit Chronicles













Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
May 20th 2008 @ 5:58PM
Kathleen said...
I'm sooooo envious! I had 6 days in Paris in January 2006. It was not enough! I'd like to have 6 months in Paris, but I'd probably still not see everything.
One restaurant that I liked was Le Souffle at 36 Rue du Mont Thabor, near the Place Vendome.
If you're into archeology, the Archeology Crypt in front of Notre Dame is fascinating. They've uncovered Roman era ruins under the plaza.
I wanted to go to the Parc de la Villette while I was there, but ran out of time. There's both a science museum and a music museum there that looked interesting.
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May 20th 2008 @ 8:00PM
teenagertc said...
Kent! I was going to ask you the same thing, regarding things to do in Paris. I am leaving for Paris on June 30th for a month long study abroad program. I would really appreciate it if you keep your faithful readers (me included) updated on things to do while in Paris. I will be checking up often, and I look forward to see what else you do and view your pictures from your next three trips!
P.S. $23 cheeseburgers??? It will take a while for me to get used to that, and I'm used to New York City prices!! How the mighty dollar has fallen...
Thanks once again Kent! Look forward to hearing more!
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May 20th 2008 @ 9:03PM
Kent Wien said...
Wow. You're going to have a life changing time there. I did it in high school to the west coast of France (Quimpere) and it was a great experience. Not to mention it's how I indirectly met my wife!
Have a great time! Let me know how it's going.
I'll try to find some cheap things to do there as well.
May 23rd 2008 @ 8:50AM
Thomas said...
Hi Kent,
I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. I do a lot of travelling in Europe and most the time end up on the md-81/82. After takeoff , after gear up, a few minutes later you hear something like a toilet flushing around the landing gear. Any ideas, I’m quiet curious?
Many Thanks,
May 20th 2008 @ 9:23PM
teenagertc said...
I will most definitely keep you updated! I see your email address on your webpage, so I can send updates there! I just have to mention again how much I love your posts, it is so awesome to hear about travel from your perspective.
Cheap would be great, as I am still a student trying to experience as much as possible in the amount of time that I have in Europe.
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May 20th 2008 @ 9:25PM
Gail said...
Lovely to read your view of Paris. My favorite section of Paris is the Marais, near Place des Vosges. We stayed once in a apartment upstairs from a cafe called Chez Janou which I can highly recommend. In that area is a street famous for falafel stands ( rue des Rosiers).The Marais boast three fantastic museums,all made from restored mansions: a stunning Jewish museum ( 71 rue du Temple) where the security entrance will be familiar to any airport habituee, a Picasso Museum and a museum about the history of Paris, Musee Carnavalet. I used to walk by a museum about hunting but I never went in.Next time.
You might be amused to learn about what a UK pilot ( almost-Captain Mike from BA) has to do to get an FAA Airman's Certificate. A long involved process which required agency-to-agency communication by snail mail, then a trip to the FAA regional office near PHL, an hour or so of schmoozing with the nice folks who work there,including a floatplane enthusiast, and a promise that the plastic card will arrive by mail in 120 days! All this so he can fly me around New Jersey in a rented Cessna or maybe a Stearman if we can find one. Should be worth it!
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May 20th 2008 @ 11:04PM
Jason said...
I once got crapped on by a pigeon in France. As gross as it is, it is actually considered a sign of goodluck in Europe.
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May 21st 2008 @ 12:00AM
Kent Wien said...
How lucky could it really be, if you just got crapped on in the first place? But if I had known, I would have certainly tried to convince the captain of his newfound good luck!
May 20th 2008 @ 11:58PM
Ben said...
If you're not getting bananes on your Nutella crepes, you're not living.
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May 21st 2008 @ 10:47AM
Kent Wien said...
All right. I'll give the bananas another try. I've had it before, but I'll need to revisit that idea to know for sure.
May 21st 2008 @ 12:29AM
Jim said...
You must go down into the catacombs. I've flown to Paris scores of times and never went down to the catacombs until I took my wife and neice over to celebrate her (the niece) graduation from High school. Take the metro just a couple of stops from Notre Dame to the Denfort-Rocherau stop and cross the street. If you can do this around Halloween it's probably even better.
And you really shourd try the Taverne Du Sgt Recruiter on Isle St Louis. It's a great fixed price (including beer/wine) restaurant with a very entertaining staff.
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Jun 4th 2008 @ 12:36AM
Kent Wien said...
Both the Catacombs and Sgt. Recruiters have been on my list for a while. Thanks for reminding me that I still need to see both!
May 21st 2008 @ 9:38AM
89359 said...
Hi Kent,
Congrats on your successful bidding for two months in a row! Must be getting senior! When I flew to Paris as a 76 FO, I used to try to bid a Sunday night layover, because (at least back then) each Sunday night at 1800 there was a free organ recital in Notre Dame Cathedral. Organists from around the world were invited to play. An incredible venue for incredible music (quite spooky at times). Then afterwards we would eat at a Greek place just off the plaza in front of the Cathedral. Sorry, can't remember the name of the restaurant.
There were layovers when I couldn't sleep well and woke up early, and I remember how fun it was to take a walk around town and watch Paris wake up...the bakeries are fired-up before the sun comes up, and if your waistline can take it, their wares are hot and fresh!
Enjoy the summer!
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May 21st 2008 @ 10:45AM
Kent Wien said...
Wow. Great advice. I'm sure I have a Sunday layover there coming up. I'll look into that. I'm loving all of the ideas that are coming in! I'll need a few more trips to do everything recommended.
May 22nd 2008 @ 1:31AM
Sharlee said...
There are TONS of things to do in Paris...one of my more memorable things was taking the bike tours around Paris...you get to see a lot of things at once. I adore the Rodin Museum (the Thinker), the Arc de Triomphe and the Louvre (duh!). I recommend walking the Triumphal way...tons to see! The catacombs are pretty cool but wear comfy shoes as it's a long trek. The BEST crepes I've ever had were at Crêperie des Arts @ 27, Rue St André des Arts in the Latin Quarter. I also enjoy people watching at Notre Dame and Hotel de Ville. I would recommend Versailles (tons of history); however in the summertime one tends to be treated like cattle. Good luck and keep us updated!
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May 26th 2008 @ 5:58PM
w67 said...
I think you are talking of " Champs Elysees" ;-)
May 22nd 2008 @ 7:33AM
Neil said...
Fantastic read Kent!
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May 22nd 2008 @ 12:02PM
Mike said...
Kent:
I enjoyed your comments. Let me tell you some of the more interesting, less-touristy things you can see in Paris. First up, go to the 20th arrondissement. This is one of the most interesting areas of the city, and not frequented much by tourists. It's a great mix of Parisian cultures, Arab, African, artist-bohemian, etc. Take the Metro line 11 to the Pyrenees stop. When you come out, you will be on Avenue Simon Bolivar, in the Belleville section of the 20th. It's located high up on a hill overlooking the city. Walk west on this very nice avenue, and as it curves it will eventually take you to the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. This is kind of Paris's version of New York's Central Park and although it's much smaller than Central Park, it's up on a vista, a great atmosphere with beautiful views. Great place for a picnic.
Another thing you can do from Metro Pyrenees is walk down a block or two down rue de Belleville to rue Piat, then turn left and walk down a few blocks until you reach the top of the Parc de Belleville. This is a gorgeously landscaped park with the best views of Paris.
When you come out of the bottom of the park, you can keep straight a few blocks until you reach Boulevard de Belleville. Turn left and walk about 8 blocks until you reach the Pere Lachaise cemetery, where you can see the final resting places of notables such as Chopin, Modigliani, and even the rock singer Jim Morrison.
I will be in Paris from 6/1 to 7/15. Safe travels, and feel free to e-mail me if you want more off-the-beaten-track ideas.
Mike .
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May 26th 2008 @ 2:35PM
david said...
Kent - love the blog!
If you are in and out of town for the summer - get a carnet (10 pack) of metro tickets. affordable way to get around to the places mentioned by other posters.
Also look at getting access to the Velolib bike rental program. Thousands of bikes for rent all around town - not sure of the details, but I think you need an access card, then free for the first 30 minutes if returned to a dropoff point. program started last summer as i left town. ask around for details
try and catch the finish of the tour de france - july 27 this year??
have fun
David comm/asel,amel, C172@ KSLC
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May 26th 2008 @ 2:36PM
david said...
Really enjoy your blog Kent.
Spent time in Paris last summer for Tour de France.
Recommend a trip down the Catacombe - went with my son one rainy afternoon, not too expensive. Also Parc de la Villette (19e ??) on a nice sunny afternoon is worth a look.
Bring a water bottle, fill it in the hotel - i don't remember Paris water as tasting too bad.
Buy a carnet (10 pack) of Metro tix - esp if you will be visiting a lot. Makes long cross city trips very affordable.
Also look into getting a card for the Velolib rentals.
Thousands of bikes for rent - at locations all over the city. Buy then swipe card , get free bike for 30 mins, small fee for longer periods. Program started last july as i was leaving town.
Finally try and see the finish of the Tour on Champs Elysee - July 27 (?) this year
Lived in Paris 20 years ago and made it a point of walking most of the arrondisements, visiting parks having picnics and going to local markets.
have a great summer!
David - comm/amel, asel, C172 @KSLC
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