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Big in Japan: Japanese farmers raise poison-free blowfish
To steal a line from a classic Simpsons episode:'Poison. Poison. Poison. Tasty Fish.'
Blowfish or fugu (??)?packs a lethal punch in the form of tetrodotoxin, an extremely potent neurotoxin that paralyzes its victims while they are still conscious. To put things into perspective, this means that you are fully aware as your throat closes, your lungs deflate and you drift slowly into death's arms.
There is no known cure.
However, Japan is a country of safety and order, so thankfully the majority of deaths occur when untrained people catch and prepare the fish, accidentally poisoning themselves in the process. The most dangerous culprit is the liver, which has been illegal for centuries despite being the tastiest morsel of the blowfish - it is often compared to the highest-quality foie gras (fatty goose liver).
While illegal meals of liver can still be had on the black market, the danger cannot be understated. In 1975, the famous Kabuki actor and 'Living National Treasure' Bandou Mitsugorou VIII requested four servings of liver from a fugu chef in Kyoto. Unable to refuse the request of someone of such an elevated stature, the chef served him the livers. He died soon after.
Of course, all of this is set to change now that Japanese fish-farmers have found away to raise non-poisonous blowfish....
According to an article in the New York Times, recent advances in fugu
research and farming have led to the production of blowfish that are 'as harmless as goldfish.' In fact, the advances are so significant that farmers have even been successful in producing completely poison-free fugu livers.So, how did they do it?
About eight years ago, Mr. Tamao Noguchi, a marine toxin specialist at Tokyo Healthcare University and a leading fugu expert, concluded a two-decade study demonstrating that fugu could be made poison-free by strictly controlling its feed. While it was once believed that blowfish develop the toxin on their own, in actuality they eat other animals that carry tetrodotoxin-laden bacteria.
Earlier this year, Mr. Noguchi tested more than 7,000 fugu that had been given only feed free of the tetrodotoxin-laden bacteria. His hypothesis was correct - not a single fish was poisonous!
So, will it once again be possible to eat fugu livers in Japan?
Sadly, Mr. Noguchi's research is being suppressed by powerful interests in the fugu industry, who fear that farm-raised blowfish will jeopardize their monopoly.
"We won't approve it," said Mr. Hisashi Matsumura, the president of the Shimonoseki Fugu Association and vice president of the National Fugu Association. "We're not engaging in this irrelevant discussion."
Sigh. Looks like thrill-seekers in Japan are going to have wait a bit longer to legally sample fugu liver. Of course, there are certain places in Japan where you can get your fingers on some fugu liver, though be sure that your affairs are in order before you dig in!
** All images are screenshots from the classic Simpsons episode One Fish, Two Fish, Blowfish, Blue Fish. The show, which first aired January 24, 1991, was the 11th episode of season 2 **
Filed under: Asia, Japan, Big in Japan
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Robobagins May 8th 2008 1:33PM
Supposedly it's the barest, trace amounts of poison in the flesh of the fish that give it the taste and tingle Fugu is known for.
Shane May 8th 2008 9:34PM
Nice piece, Matthew. I've been reading up on this lately and the whole issue with fugu livers being deemed an "irrelevant" issue by the leaders of two fugu groups is a great example of Japanese bureaucracy and politics at work. It seems to me that a non-poisonous liver would be very relevant to them but then it would take away the cache that comes with saying "I ate fugu, aren't I brave?" which wouldn't be good for business.
Have you tried fugu? Friends that have tell me it's not that great..
Shane Sakata
The Tokyo Traveler
http://www.thetokyotraveler.com
Matthew Firestone May 8th 2008 9:39PM
Thanks for the comment Shane - it is indeed a frustrating example of Japanese bureaucracy and politics at work. My understanding of the whole issue is that the two fugu groups are really concerned about losing their grip on the industry since they profit mainly from the cleaning and distribution of the fish. So, if a modest fish farmer in Kyushu could produce fugu without poison, then he could sell it locally instead of having to rely on the big conglomerate. Needless to say, the Japanese aren't keen on change, especially when it cuts into profits...
As for fugu itself, it's actually tasteless, though the ponzu sauce you dip into can be quite nice, and it's really the fine texture that you're supposed to savor!
Best wishes, and keep up your own blogging!
Matt
Blu-Sam May 9th 2008 9:30AM
Once it's out, I'll glad to try on blowfish.
I'll make sure I have list "Thing to do before I die"
Shane May 9th 2008 9:36AM
Better make sure that Matsumura-san gets his way or it just might Blu-sam! :O
Janelle May 12th 2008 2:07PM
Not sure if you saw this, but Adam Platt, the food critic at New York Magazine, has great piece about eating fugu. It makes my tounge tingle just reading it.
http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/46462/