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Ecuador: Your guide to the "new Costa Rica"
With the Galápagos Islands, Pacific beaches, Andes Mountains, and Amazonian jungle, Ecuador is a little country that packs a big punch. And travelers, always on the look-out for the hot new destination, are starting to flock there in droves. One backpacker has even dubbed the small South American country the "new Costa Rica." Okay, that was me.
Anyway, here's a quick-and-dirty rundown of the highlights and lowlights of Ecuador's three regions-- East, Central and West.
East
To hear the reputation of the city of Guayaquil, you'd think that calling it a cesspool of crap would be insulting to all those plucky little bacteria out there who survive on human excrement. The truth is that, despite Guayaquil's dismal reputation, things are rapidly improving, and lots of fun can be had in this port city of three million. There's a casino downtown if that's your thing, and the Malecón area on the riverfront is brand new and always packed with people. Head to the Urdesa district for some great restaurants and to the Kennedy Center for vibrant nightlife. For sightseeing, try the hilltop neighborhood known as Las Peñas, where you'll see a colorful slice of colonial Guayaquil.
The best-slash-only beach I went to in Ecuador was in Montañita, which is about two hours north of Guayaquil. The town is really chilled out and uber-friendly to backpackers, with plenty of places to eat and sleep (and smoke funny-looking cigarettes).
Shameless plug: A friend with whom I visited Montañita moved back there recently and opened a watering hole called Nuestrobar. Mention my name there and receive 50% off. (Warning: This deal may come as news to the owner.)
Gallery: A Photo Tour of Ecuador
Central
Starting from the top, Quito, the capital, is a must-see destination. Quito's Old Town is a refined, dignified queen, full of majesty and grace. Explore her curves, and take her picture. Go ahead, she likes it. The New Town (especially the Mariscal area) is an ageless whore, a seductress, a vixen. She'll do anything for a buck, and she'll give you the best nights of your life.
There are a million-and-one places to go out in the Mariscal, but take taxis at night because the area can be a little dodgy. The Secret Garden hostel in the Old Town is highly recommended for its spectacular balcony view and lively backpacker atmosphere. It's the best budget place to stay in Quito by a lot. Make a reservation, as it's endorsed by Lonely Planet and therefore often packed.
Visit the cable cars known as the Telefériqo for a panoramic look at the city. Go early, as heavy fog tends to block the gorgeous view any time past noon.
For a challenging hike just a few hours from Quito, hire a guide and head to the world's tallest active volcano, Mt. Cotopaxi. At 19,347 feet, the climb will kick your ass unless you're in good shape and have spent time acclimatizing to the altitude. Still, it's possible to have a good time even if you prefer donuts to dumbells, and you don't make it all the way to the top. (I know from experience.)
Heading south from Quito, spend some time in the town of Baños, so named because of the existence of several thermal baths created by the nearby Tungurahua Volcano. Baños is where I stayed for about six weeks, so I might be biased, but it was just about the best Ecuador has to offer. It's nestled beautifully in the mountains, there is tons to do-- mountain biking, rafting, hiking, soaking in thermal baths, bungee-jumping off bridges, drinking, dancing with girls who are probably too young.
If you go, I recommend staying at Plantas y Blanco and eating at Casa Hood (great used book selection), and Cafe Hood. And yes, there are two different restaurants with the word "Hood" in the name-- it's a long story.
Taking the bus south from Baños, you'll come to the beautiful old colonial city of Cuenca. It's where I met the most beautiful girl in Ecuador, and for that reason, it will always hold a spot near and dear to me.
In the southernmost region of the country, you'll find the small gringo-hippie-retiree town of Vilcabamba. If you enjoy talking about your chi and saying things like, "The energy in this room just doesn't feel right," this is the place for you. Head to the Madre Tierra spa/hotel for the full effect.
West
The Amazonian jungle. I went for about a week, and it was certainly a experience I'll never forget. It costs about $40 a day to hire a guide, which you must do. Going into the jungle is just like it sounds-- lots of fascinating plants and animals, but lacking in creature comforts such as air conditioning, WiFi, and buildings with doors. Go if the preceding sounds appealing.
Note: When your jungle guide introduces you to a shaman who offers you a psychoactive tea called ayahuasca, politely refuse-- that is, unless you're looking to writhe in agony for hours while suffering from temporary psychosis and acute diarrhea. Or so I've heard.
Final Thoughts
If you have extra money, go to the Galápagos Islands. It's about the one thing in Ecuador I didn't do, but wished I had. It'll cost US$1000 to go for a week, but it's cheaper if you fly to the islands and explore on your own rather than joining a pre-arranged tour.
For more info, consider picking up an Ecuador guidebook or make your own Frankenguide.
Finally, and most importantly, ignore most of the advice above and just find your own places to go and do your own things. Traveling is about making it up as you go along. Somehow things always work out, no matter where you go or what you do.
Got questions? I never get tired of talking about Ecuador, so leave it in the comments and I'll do my best to answer it. Happy travels!
Filed under: Ecuador, Hotels and Accommodations, Budget Travel, Nightlife
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Yvette Mar 23rd 2008 8:48PM
I'd be curious to hear about the language issues. I have some Spanish, but dialects seem to vary in SA. Can you get by being able to read Spanish, and speak a little? Do locals feel comfortable w/English? Or, just tolerant?
johnny Mar 23rd 2008 11:36AM
It is the easiest place to learn spanish
johnny Mar 23rd 2008 11:36AM
ps...are you a cutie? we could go down together!
Aaron Hotfelder Mar 19th 2008 11:46AM
The Spanish spoken in Ecuador is very much "standard Spanish." In fact, a lot of students go to Ecuador to learn Spanish because of how clearly the language is spoken.
As far as getting by without being fluent, don't worry about it. I was less than fluent-- to put it generously-- and rarely had problems getting around. Just be willing to improvise and pantomine and you'll be fine.
As in most countries, English is more or less understood in big cities among the young people, and that's about it. A phrasebook will be a big help, even if your pronunciation is less than perfect. I've always found that people are almost universally patient with you even when you're hacking their language to pieces.
Chuck Mar 19th 2008 4:28PM
Hi, nice article.... I am curious as to the availability of ATMs and also as to the sanitary/eating/water condtions of the small towns you visited and stayed in. Thanks
Justin Glow Mar 19th 2008 3:24PM
This is great. I have to say, I really had no particular interest in going to Ecuador, but now I do thanks to this.
Aaron H Mar 19th 2008 5:05PM
ATMs are readily available in Guayaquil and Quito, as well as in most medium-sized towns. Montañita is the rare small town that has an ATM.
Ecuador actually uses the US dollar, but they have their own set of coins. If possible, try to avoid bringing lots of larger bills with you from the States (20s included) as shopkeepers and taxi drivers hate having to make change.
As far as food sanitation goes, I never had any problems, except for the common stomach bugs that all travelers eventually have. You'll need to drink bottled water, which isn't a problem as it's super-cheap and sold everywhere.
Sheridan Mar 22nd 2008 10:59PM
I have made three trips to Ecuador and would go back in a heartbeat. I am very serious birder and the birds there are incredible, but even for someone who doesn't know a chicken from a parakeet, the eco-lodges are a great deal. Most are all inclusive, except for alchohol. They are comfortable with incredible food! We have done the Tandyapa Valley and several places in the south. Go! You won't be sorry.
Lazy Susan Aug 6th 2009 6:41AM
Great blog Aaron,
I was wondering where you entered the Jungle, is it easy to find a guide for around that price ($40 a day)?
(We were thinking of going to the jungle for about 3 days)
Lazy Susan Aug 7th 2009 11:52AM
Thanks for your help Aaron, it's all so exciting!
Russ Jul 8th 2010 2:48AM
In your opinion Aaron, what are the safest Cities of Ecuador to live in?....and if you would, give me the status on kidnappings for ransom....these are on my list to think about when looking for a retirement spot.......
Best Regards,
Russ
Aaron Hotfelder Jul 8th 2010 12:29PM
Russ,
The probability of being kidnapped in Ecuador is infinitesimally small. The only potentially unsafe areas in Ecuador are those along the Ecuador - Colombia border, an area most travelers never see. Almost all of Ecuador, from big cities to small towns, is probably safer than your home town.
If you're looking for a retirement spot, let me recommend Quito as a big city spot and Banos or Cuenca as smaller options.
Have fun!
Dean Aug 10th 2011 1:01AM
Aaron,
The wife and I would like to check Ecuador out, leaving from Tennessee, USA. Any Idea about the cheapest way to travel to Quito? We would be hoping eventually to live in the Cuenca environs and want to check out the possibility of living, not necessarily with expats, but with the locals and adopting a lifestyle that would allow us to blend in. We've thought of driving our Prius down the Pan American Highway, and then renting (maybe buying after we make a final decision) a furnished place while we check the area out and then getting into an unfurnished unit (house, apt. condo, etc) and furnishing it locally. Do you think that's too dangerous, especially the Mexico portion of the trip? Our income, unless one of us works is around $36-$37,000.00/ annually. Do you think it's reasonably do-able?
I know this is a long query, but thanks for any portion you care to address,
Dean