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Oh China, how you've changed! Part 2
This is part two of a three part series exploring the tremendous changes that have occurred in China since the author last visited as a tourist in 1995. To start reading from the beginning, click here.
China was, and still remains, the most challenging country I have ever traveled. Of course, when I say this, I mean the China I wrestled with in 1995. At the time, it was a given rule that a person must set aside at least one day for logistics for every two days of travel. Nothing was easy. Simply buying a train ticket in the "Foreigners Only" line, for example, was an all day affair in which the salesperson might refuse to sell you a ticket to Chengdu but have no problems selling one to the person immediately behind you.
In addition, simple international forms of communication were never understood. Pointing at your wrist would never get the time out of someone. Pointing at a train and asking "Beijing?" would never reveal if that was indeed the train to Beijing. And, ordering chicken from your Chinese phrase book meant getting a cooked chicken complete with head, beak and claws, but without any seasoning or sauce whatsoever. Frankly, I was surprised it was even cooked.
With such little exposure to the outside world, the cultural differences made for some very trying times while traveling in the 1990s.
Fortunately, things have changed quite a bit since then. Keep in mind, however, that my observations are a little skewed since both cities I visited will be hosting Olympic events in 2008 and are therefore scrambling frantically to become more tourist friendly.
As a result, I found Beijing and Shenyang pleasantly amicable. Compared to 15 years ago, there were far more signs in English, it was much easier to communicate simple meal needs, and sales staff were astronomically more helpful. Many even spoke English.
The government is trying hard to ensure that visitors during the Olympics have an enjoyable experience. This naturally involves massive training programs for anyone who will come in contact with foreigners as well as new laws prohibiting spitting, slurping soup, and other activities that visitors might find offensive. And so, I had a nice chuckle at the Beijing airport when I ran across the device in the above photograph (sorry for the blurry shot, but it was in the airport and photography wasn't allowed). It was attached to the front of a counter where a woman was checking my ticket and passport. This is great! Just the slightest bit of attitude and I could reach out with my finger and ding her! If they had this device 12 years ago, the bad button would have broken the first day from overuse.
And then, of course, there is the most ubiquitous symbol of an emerging market: the cell phone. I didn't see as many people chatting away in public as I would have expected, but the Chinese cell phone market is indeed taking off.
And so, my journey through modern day China was a voyage through a nascent economy which is visibly rising to its feet and, according to some experts, may one day dominate the world market. It's a strange disconnect from what I witnessed 12 years ago and no matter how much I was prepared for the new China, the sight of an Audi driving, Gucci-clad, Chinese princess gabbing away on her cell phone was an image I would have never thought possible back in 1995.
The above photo is from 1995 when bikes ruled the road and cars were rare and usually government owned. Bicycles were king in China and the roads literally overflowed with them--some nine million in Beijing alone.
Today, the roads are crammed with private automobiles instead, thanks to China's expanding economy. Bicycles have become a second-class form of transport and in some places are actually banned from the same roadways they used to rule.
This has transformed cities like Beijing into just another auto-choked Asian capital where traffic jams and honking horns have sadly replaced the more tranquil, iconic bicycle.
As if this isn't bad enough, the increase in pollution since 1995 was noticeable before I even landed at the airport. Descending from the sunny, clear skies of 30,000 feet into Beijing airspace, my plane passed through a thick, murky inversion layer of toxic pollutants that nearly obscured the sun for the remainder of my stay in the capital, as well as further north in Shenyang. Sure, the region has always received a fair amount of dust storms from the Gobi desert and air pollution from nearby factories, but the addition of 1,000 new cars hitting the streets every day in Beijing has made the air quality far worse.
The thought of an Olympic athlete performing in this pollutant cocktail is simply unfathomable. The city is aware of this problem, however, and has already launched a couple of exploratory "car free" days where private cars were banned from the streets in hopes to clean up the air.
Personally, I don't think it's going to work. The air is foul and will only get worse as cars continue to replace bikes.
Yesterday: Oh China, how you've changed! Part 1
Tomorrow: Oh China, how you've changed! Part 3
As a result, I found Beijing and Shenyang pleasantly amicable. Compared to 15 years ago, there were far more signs in English, it was much easier to communicate simple meal needs, and sales staff were astronomically more helpful. Many even spoke English.
The government is trying hard to ensure that visitors during the Olympics have an enjoyable experience. This naturally involves massive training programs for anyone who will come in contact with foreigners as well as new laws prohibiting spitting, slurping soup, and other activities that visitors might find offensive. And so, I had a nice chuckle at the Beijing airport when I ran across the device in the above photograph (sorry for the blurry shot, but it was in the airport and photography wasn't allowed). It was attached to the front of a counter where a woman was checking my ticket and passport. This is great! Just the slightest bit of attitude and I could reach out with my finger and ding her! If they had this device 12 years ago, the bad button would have broken the first day from overuse.
The Economy
Back in 1995, Beijing was practically rural in its mentality and feel. Today, however, a burgeoning economy has produced a rash of products and a billion plus consumers to swoop them up. Luxury items and international brands are now available in the countless shops which have blossomed in this supposedly "communist" environment. As a result, consumerism is on the rise as products that were impossible to buy 12 years ago are now fashionable must-haves whose attributes are increasingly touted by a rapidly growing amount of advertising which also didn't exist in the 1990s. Billboards and neon, while not dominating the cityscape, have certainly changed its face.And then, of course, there is the most ubiquitous symbol of an emerging market: the cell phone. I didn't see as many people chatting away in public as I would have expected, but the Chinese cell phone market is indeed taking off.
And so, my journey through modern day China was a voyage through a nascent economy which is visibly rising to its feet and, according to some experts, may one day dominate the world market. It's a strange disconnect from what I witnessed 12 years ago and no matter how much I was prepared for the new China, the sight of an Audi driving, Gucci-clad, Chinese princess gabbing away on her cell phone was an image I would have never thought possible back in 1995.
Traffic and Pollution
Twelve years ago pedestrians stood the chance of getting run over by a bicycle if they weren't careful crossing the road in China. Today, they stand the chance of getting run over by a car.The above photo is from 1995 when bikes ruled the road and cars were rare and usually government owned. Bicycles were king in China and the roads literally overflowed with them--some nine million in Beijing alone.
Today, the roads are crammed with private automobiles instead, thanks to China's expanding economy. Bicycles have become a second-class form of transport and in some places are actually banned from the same roadways they used to rule.
This has transformed cities like Beijing into just another auto-choked Asian capital where traffic jams and honking horns have sadly replaced the more tranquil, iconic bicycle.
As if this isn't bad enough, the increase in pollution since 1995 was noticeable before I even landed at the airport. Descending from the sunny, clear skies of 30,000 feet into Beijing airspace, my plane passed through a thick, murky inversion layer of toxic pollutants that nearly obscured the sun for the remainder of my stay in the capital, as well as further north in Shenyang. Sure, the region has always received a fair amount of dust storms from the Gobi desert and air pollution from nearby factories, but the addition of 1,000 new cars hitting the streets every day in Beijing has made the air quality far worse.
The thought of an Olympic athlete performing in this pollutant cocktail is simply unfathomable. The city is aware of this problem, however, and has already launched a couple of exploratory "car free" days where private cars were banned from the streets in hopes to clean up the air.
Personally, I don't think it's going to work. The air is foul and will only get worse as cars continue to replace bikes.
Yesterday: Oh China, how you've changed! Part 1
Tomorrow: Oh China, how you've changed! Part 3
Filed under: Activism, China, Ecotourism
Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
dave kenny Nov 15th 2007 12:14PM
There's no doubt about it. China is now the biggest capitalist country in the world. When did this happen? The first time I ever saw a Porsche SUV was in China. Next to the Bentley and the Ferrari. Some would morn the loss to the planet of massive amounts of nostalgic 19th century life style, in favor of futuristic high rise apartment complexes, often with 15 or 20 identical buildings nestled among 20 other complexes with equally extreme architecture. But this is necessary in order for such a massive population to grow into the 22nd century. One out of every four people on the planet is Chinese. What makes us think they won't dominate the world in politics, technology, finance, and culture within a few short decades. Better start learning to speak Mandarin now. Better yet, learn to read it.
I found China to be pretty much as described by Mr. Woodburn. Even out in the rural countryside the changes were so dramatic, and happening at such a rapid pace that even from year to year it's hard to recognize the same place again. Cities such as Shanghai, Shenzhen, and Beijing are growing at such a rapid pace that it is phenomenal that the Chinese city planners can even be two steps behind. It's often noted that the official population of most Chinese cities is only about half of the number actually living there. So if you double the size of Shanghai's 18,000,000, for example, you begin to see what the Chinese need to accomplish in order to create the modern environment that they are seeking. In comparison with older European and American cities, such as New York or Frankfort, modern China is newer, brighter, more advanced, and more attractive.
The most amazing thing to me is that the realitively small national governmental organization has accomplished so much is such a sort period of time.
Michelle Mar 14th 2008 12:37PM
I'm really enjoying your observations of modern Beijing. I had the same feelings of wonder--both at the city's openness and at the prospect of a polluted Olympics--when I visited in July. I didn't have any previous China travels to compare it to, though, so I'm reading your take on visiting in 1995 with great interest. There are certainly few (and disappearing) vestiges of the past in Beijing today.
Paul M Nov 15th 2007 11:57AM
Very nice post, and a great website. We have some China related content over at www.TheChinaGames.com. Cheers...
Robobagins Nov 15th 2007 12:00PM
Ah my goodness that grey sky is so bleak! When I visited in April I had a week of clear blue skies and great fresh air. The only time I had trouble breathing was when I went up the Great Wall.
At least you got a picture of the comment device, though I wonder how much good they're doing. Everyone looked surly and ripe to give you a beating if you didn't at least press "satisfied" when I made my way through customs.
Neil Nov 15th 2007 12:58PM
Thanks gang,
I'm enjoying the extra observations
mary Nov 15th 2007 10:31PM
I lived in Beijing for over 2 years in the 90's. I developed lung problems which have never gone away. They burn soft coal in the winter which causes the pollution. I was with the American Embassy and used to have the Chinese come into my apartment and go through my magazines and mail until I got a security lock from the embassy that no one had a key to except me and the embassy. Except on days when the shadou (maid) would come to clean I had to leave the lock off. The people are surprising nice but at the time we were harboring a disident from Tiamen and the Chinese Security Police could be nasty. You have to realize if the government wants something they will tell the people we will give you extra coupons to buy things as they get coupons to buy things like sugar, flour, etc. so they will do most anything to get extra food. You can't really blame them as they are looking out for their family and don't have any loyalty to anyone. One day I saw some fresh made noodles in a shop and I tried to buy some but you could only buy them with coupons so this sweet old woman tried to give me her coupons so I could buy them. She probably had $1 to her name so I thanked her profusely and said no. China is not black and white so don't make judgements about it.
K C williams Nov 17th 2007 2:44PM
I spent a year and a half in China in 1947/1948. Most of it in Tsingtao, but some of it in Shanghai. I cannot beleive the changes since then. I see areas on the internet that are almost unrecognizable. In those years China was a dangerous place to be. For the most part we would travel outside in small groups, or at least two. My only description of China at that time has to be filthy, and smelly. At shanghai our ship was anchored off the Bund. I saw dead bodies floating down the Whangpoo every day, and in the evening a barge would make way down river, grappling the bodies with hooks and bringing them aboard. What happened to them later I had no idea. Ricksha boys were constantly trying to rob you, and if you ran into trouble with one, the Chinese police were no help. Your only escape and safety was darting into the lobby of the Cathay Hotel, or Park Hotel on Nanking Rd.
Even so I was fascinated with the country.