My Bloody Romania: A return to the American Dream - minus gainful employment and money
Does anyone else have perma-smell associations for whole countries? One scent that transports your brain to a specific country, drops you on a random street and makes you dreamily reminisce about the life you could have had with the achingly cute girl that worked at the local travel agency that not so subtly offered to give you a 'private tour' (nudge-nudge) and you distractedly turned her down because you had to go review three hotels and two restaurants that afternoon and you then decide that you're a thick-skulled jackass for not noticing the palpable flirty signs until you thought about it two days later while sitting on the train to the next city and then you wonder how the hell anyone that is so painfully unobservant could possibly be trusted to be a travel writer? Show of hands?
Some countrywide perma-smell association examples: France smells like butter. Italy smells like garlic. Romania smells like a mix of pălincă and grass (with a hint of manure).
So what's the overriding smell I associate with the US? French fry grease. It's everywhere. If you're saying to yourself "Well it doesn't smell like French fry grease at my house!", you're wrong grandma. It most certainly does, you've just gotten used to it.
You don't notice how the US smells like French fry grease until you leave for a while and your nose has had time to forget. You need at least two weeks, but the sensation magnifies the longer you're away. Get out of the country for like 10 months and you'll see what I mean. When you return, the instant you hit the top of the jetway the French fry aroma in the airport hits you like a bullet in the kneecap, even if the food court is 100 yards away. If you think an air quality assessment at an airport is unfair, fine, let's change it up. Arrive in Duluth by boat. Parachute into a third tier suburb of Pittsburg. Teleport into Oklahoma. It changes nothing. Hello French fry grease. Goodbye clear completion.
And have you ever noticed how as soon as you walk through a cloud of French fry grease vapor you're suddenly starving to death? Even if you just ate? Even if your nose is sealed shut from a bad Eastern European head cold? Don't try to tell me that stuff isn't laced with heroin. You don't even have to ingest it to become addicted. Meanwhile there's no cure for herpes. Oooeeeoooeee.
On that note, I arrived back in America a few days ago. The trip was fairly disaster-free, but a freak cold I contracted while in Suceava meant that I rarely went more than two minutes without putting a new coating of snot on my upper lip and finger tips. I'd like to take this opportunity to apologize to everyone in Bucharest, Heathrow and O'Hare airports for the Nose DNA that I unintentionally left behind during layovers. There was nothing I could do about it. More material exited out of my nose last week than all my other orifices combined.
I was seated in the dreaded center row on the longest leg of my journey, with a half-deaf bitty on one side and a Danish Moonie on the other. The Moonie was so large and had so many airplane seat accessories that it took her five minutes of packing, rearranging and grunting to let me out so I could get to the bathroom and refresh my Booger Wad.
Here in Minneapolis, in addition to a stupefying visit to a supermarket for the first time in years (57 kinds of tomato sauce, versus five in Romania and 23 kinds of peanut butter, versus zero), I've been hyper-aware of the differences between big city America and my hideouts in Romania and Italy these past few years. The utter convenience and reliability of everything. Free WiFi clouds so profuse that only suckers pay for their own home services anymore. Going to work with more than 30% of your available cleavage on display is considered a bad thing.
This is just the beginning. I've got giddying months of reverse culture shock in store for me as I re-establish myself as a resident of this land of wretched plenty. Never mind 57 different ways to enliven pasta. I've got 21 new energy drinks to appraise. I have to get up to speed on over four years of TV, movies, music, politics, pop culture and reprobate starlets that 'accidentally' expose their private parts in public every other week. I can go to a restaurant and eat breakfast at 2pm, lunch at 10:30am or dinner at 5pm. I can pay my electric bill without it being a two hour, three visit affair. I can turn on the hot water and have it actually work most of the time (we eventually did without hot water for over two weeks last month in Iaşi).
Equally, in America I can't buy a decent coffee for less than US$4 or wine for less than US$9. Shallots are a pricey extravagance rather than a common ingredient. World news is glossed over for 30 seconds before eight minutes of local sports results. There are dizzying, infuriating rules about when and where one can park a car, drink booze or get nekkid. Worse, you're often limited to only doing one at a time (unless it's football game day, when anything goes – God bless America!)
But coping on the fly with constant culture adjustments is all part of the fun of frequent international travel. You can never be accused of being flaky if you've just gotten off a plane from somewhere that has unusual toilets. It's an all-purpose excuse to get out of bad manners, falling asleep at family meals and low tipping. And my buddies, bless them, are all in on the plot:
"Please excuse my friend. He's a professional travel writer and just got back from two weeks in Buenos Aires, where they only tip 3%, it's socially acceptable to be drunk at 10am and ass-grabbing is the highest form of flattery. If we're lucky, and he remains conscious, he may tell us the location of the only free public toilet in Venice."
Friends, sadly, this brings to a close my critic acclaimed (yes, just the one) travel series My Bloody Romania. I hope my sarcastic and spotty knowledge of Romania has been amusing, enthralling and mostly factual. Thanks to Justin and Willy at Gadling for the opportunity to prattle, curse and digress at will and special thanks to my regular readers over at Killing Batteries for descending on Gadling and padding my comments sections. Killing Batteries Minneapolis Edition resumes in a few days. Set your feeds and botox treatments accordingly.
Oh, one last kernel of Romania knowledge: the first person to establish import rights for Skippy Peanut Butter into the country is going to be a squillionaire – andale!!
Leif Pettersen, originally from Minneapolis, Minnesota, co-authored the current edition of Lonely Planet's Romania and Moldova. Visit his personal blog, Killing Batteries, for more unrelated tangents and diatribes when pre-season high school football coverage eclipses reporting on the events in Burma.
Filed under: Romania, My Bloody Romania with Leif Pettersen


Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Oct 2nd 2007 @ 5:57PM
Bogdan said...
WB,Leif! ;)
Reply
Oct 3rd 2007 @ 6:43AM
Bunny said...
I am glad you had a good trip. I do take exception that you think American homes smell of French fry grease. I can tell you have NEVER been to Northern CA. My home, my family members' homes, my friends' homes do NOT smell of French fry grease....... I don't know where you have been hanging out....... the mall perhaps, or fast food places....... but there are many Americans who do NOT fry their food....... It may come as a surprise to learn that there are Americans who use other methods to cook their food and that there are many of us who do NOT survive on a fast food diet!!!
Reply
Oct 4th 2007 @ 9:56AM
Leif said...
Thanks for the comments!
Bunny – it's not that EVERYONE fries their food, it's that most people encounter fried food during the course of their day and since French fry grease is chemically engineered to attach and infect people with the Grease DTs, it manages to find its way to non-grease places until it has covered the entire country. Maybe the neighbor fries and it floats in your window, maybe there's a McDonald's down the street and sullies the whole neighborhood, maybe you walked through the food court at the mall and your clothes and hair were impregnated with grease stench. One way or another French fry grease invades our lives and it eventually works its way to every corner of the country. With the possible exception of Northern California. I don't know. I've been to SF twice and it was grease city, just like any other place.
Romeo – I see we hang out with different Romanians. The last two times I've flown directly from the US to Romania, I've been under orders to smuggle in all the Skippy I can carry. And it's gone in a week. The chicks dig it, man.
Reply
Oct 5th 2007 @ 3:40AM
Romeo said...
Peanut butter is an acquired taste. All Romanians I've ever met would have at most a tiny spoon of it, and never a second one.
That stuff would never sell there.
Reply
Jul 15th 2008 @ 6:31AM
S. V. said...
I'm Romanian.
I hate peanut butter.
Reply