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Big in Japan: The Subtle Art of Eating Blowfish
In the 18th century, the famous Japanese poet Yosa no Buson expressed his love for eating blowfish in this simple but elegant haiku:
I cannot see her tonight.
I have to give her up
So I will eat fugu.
Like the great poets of old and new, Buson is no different in that he yearned for a woman that was not his love. However, in the great tradition of finding comfort in food, he instead turns to fugu (??, blowfish) in order to mend his broken heart.
Indeed, there is perhaps no Japanese art as subtle and beautiful as that of eating blowfish. Some people swear by the tea ceremony. Others prefer Zen Buddhism. For me however, it's blowfish, the deadliest of delicacies.
A famous Japanese story tells the tale of three men, who prepared a dish of fugu but were afraid to taste it out of fear of death. Driven to the point of despair, the wisest amongst them serves the dish to a beggar in order to test its potency. Later, when the men return to find that the beggar is still alive, they breathe a sigh of relief, and immediately dine on the fugu.
Like most Japanese folk tales, trickery and deceit are ultimately vanquished by wisdom and craft. This particular tale being no different, the beggar secretly hides away the stew hoping that the three men would eat it first. After seeing that they were alive and well, the wise beggar retires to the back streets, and eats his fugu with peace of mind.
This of course brings about the question: why exactly is fugu so deadly?
Blowfish packs a lethal punch in the form of tetrodotoxin, an extremely potent neurotoxin that paralyzes its victims while they are still conscious. To put things into perspective, this means that you are fully aware as your throat closes, your lungs deflate and drift slowly into death's arms.
There is no known cure.
Of course, Japan is a country of safety and order, so thankfully the majority of deaths occur when untrained people catch and prepare the fish, accidentally poisoning themselves in the process. The most dangerous culprit is the liver, which is regarded as the tastiest morsel of the blowfish. If you're lucky, the liver will contain only enough poison to numb the palette and raise the adrenaline. If you're unlucky however, the liver will contain enough poison to kill you ten times over.
Of course, Japan is also a country of pride and honor, which is way blowfish liver (though illegal) is one of the most coveted of meals. In 1975, the famous Kabuki actor and 'Living National Treasure' Bandou Mitsugorou VIII requested four servings of liver from a fugu chef in Kyoto. Unable to refuse the request of someone of such an elevated stature, the chef served the livers to Bandou Mitsugorou VIII.
He died just minutes after - with his pride and honor intact of course.
Although illegal in Europe and all but a handful of restaurants in America, the subtle art of eating blowfish is still very much alive in modern Japan. Not surprisingly, eating fugu with a bunch of crazy companions is something that just sort of happens after spending too much time in Japan. It's equal parts stupidity and peril, with a
healthy dash of self-reflection and humility thrown in.
And yes, before you post comments regarding my culinary background, I have in fact eaten fugu, and I will most likely eat it again.
(In case you're wondering, I did in fact survive with my nervous system intact).
Click here for Part II of the Subtle Art of Eating Blowfish.
Filed under: Arts and Culture, Food and Drink, Asia, Japan, Big in Japan




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Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
Fletcher McG Aug 21st 2007 5:38PM
Tasty. How much does a dish like blowfish cost? Is it expensive, or is it sort of a "you get what you pay for" kind of thing?
Mickey Aug 22nd 2007 8:03PM
I don't know whether Japanesem Blowfish are different from those we caught in Northeastern U.S. waters as a youngster, but we always saved the livers and sauteed them like chicken livers.
They were delicious and here I am at 81
Matt Firestone Aug 22nd 2007 3:56PM
Well, I would imagine that the species are different since you are alive and well at 81. With that said, I can't endorse eating random blowfish livers, at least not in Pacific. Thanks for the comment!
Marty Krais Aug 22nd 2007 10:17PM
When i was 12 years old i would catch blowfish and watch them just blow up before my own eyes. Never though you could eat them.Never had a problem with the tail where the poisen was supposed to be.People from Italy really new had cook them.
Ian Aug 27th 2007 12:17PM
Not to be rude, but I don't think that haiku wasn't expressing love for fugu, but a somewhat more suicidal sentiment.
SJ Bobkins Aug 30th 2007 11:12AM
Is there anything, harvested from the sea that the Japanese won't eat? To eat something that either tastes awful or just plain fishy at best, for the thrill of getting a numb tongue and a tiny potential of having your respiratory system paralyzed is as goofy as the used schoolgirl panties sold in vending machines in Japan.
Don't get me started on all the endangered species that have sacrificed horns, testicles, or livers in order to "super-charge" the Japanese male virility, or those gawd-awful polyester, blue suits, short-sleeved white shirts and plain navy ties every male wears. Repeat after me boys, "we don't wear clothes that melt".
I'm going to start an international fund to protect these cuddly little Poly-Ester critters from over-harvesting. When will cotton, wool or linen fabrics, or color make it to Tokyo? What a country.
steve Sep 4th 2007 2:34AM
Interesting post on fugu. As a foreigner, I have brought up the issue of fugu with my Japanese colleagues and the hysteria and fear of eating fugu is a western thing, not Japanese. I’ve asked every single Japanese person I know the following question, “When you eat fugu, do you think you might die?” The overwhelming response is no, esp. if you eat at a licensed restaurant. It is a different response if you ask them if they would eat it if it were prepared at home, but most people will never prepare it themselves. I would suspect more people die from tainted ground beef served at fast food restaurants in America than fugu in Japan.
The main issue people bring up is cost because it is not cheap to eat fugu. Many people never eat fugu because it is expensive and/or there aren’t any licensed restaurants in their area, not because it can kill you… For the adventurous traveler, I would highly recommend trying it in Japan. There is a chain of fugu restaurants in Tokyo that serves reasonably priced fugu course meals starting at 5,000 yen and up. You’ll get a great sampling of the entire fish from sashimi, grilled, deep-fried, and hot pot. Matt forgot to mention that some places serve the fugu sperm sack.
Matthew Firestone Sep 4th 2007 2:35AM
Fugu sperm sack - I'll have to look out for that one.