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A Canadian in Beijing: Capital Museum A Total Snooze

I suppose if I weren't so tired today our class trip to the Beijing Central Museum (or, ?????: Shoudu Bowuguan) would be more interesting to me. As it stands, we've been here for two hours and I'm bored out of my mind. I've even returned to the bus early (the eventual meeting place) because I couldn't stand the sterility of the experience any longer. My legs were so tired from the endless walking that I'm even sitting on the ground out here and, as you know, that's not something I advocate in Beijing!
I'm just not into it. What does this say about me?
I'm actually really interested in history and I find stories of the past fascinating. I love to learn about the places I visit and how they have come to develop into what they are under my feet and before my eyes. Where a place has come from and how it has journeyed and why -- I love that stuff. So, why couldn't I get into this museum, I wonder?

The museum is a beautiful modern building made of glass and marble and full of architectural wonder. It has only been open in this current location since December 19, 2006. It is 60,000 square metres in size, five floors with escalators and elevators between each and it can accommodate up to 2,000 visitors per day. It's majestic, really, and the photos really don't do it justice.

It's gorgeous. Every display is well-placed and "just so." In fact, I think that's the problem. I have this overwhelming feeling that this place has been over thought, and now the information being communicated about China's history also seems over thought, as though a huge committee sat around a giant table both approving and vetoing what I should or should not be told as a visitor. Or perhaps it's more like what I could or could not be told. I became more and more agitated by the descriptions of history with every room that I eventually just found a bench inside and watched people instead.

But, what do I know? My learning is as limited as the next person's – it's through my Canadian cultural lens, education, reading material, etc. – and so I can't claim to know what "really happened." Still, I know well enough that the rise of the republic in China was not all glory and accomplishment. There was no mention of what the people went through throughout this transition (i.e. "The Cultural Revolution") or even what they faced throughout the "Great Leap Forward" campaign just following the end of Feudalism in China. I saw no mention of the destruction of historical artifacts, literature, cultural relics; no mention of deaths by starvation or long-term incarceration; no mention of the dislocation of people and families throughout both movements. At least, no mention that I could see in English.

The signs in English were not as complete as the signs in Chinese, either. I know enough of this language to know that, but my ability to read all of the history-related characters was pretty limited and so I had to rely on these English translations which were, of course, full of written errors. I was really shocked to see such mistakes in such an official building. This is the Capital Museum of Beijing! I'm shocked that these errors made it through and I do hope that correcting these is on the "to do" list before the Olympics. I'm sure they'll have lots of visitors through this museum at that time who will require the English as much (or more) than I did.

[I wished I had some sort of guide, but the computer kiosks offering more detail were entirely in Chinese and I didn't learn until later that I could have rented an English headset (like I did at the Summer Palace) to accompany my walk. Oh well, I suppose I was meant to experience it as I was and these are my honest impressions.]
Last night, I went out again with my musician friends and checked out live music at Mao Live House (and played a couple of songs too) and so I really didn't get much sleep. After awhile, my fatigue and my irritation with these language errors (not to mention what seemed to me to be an incomplete reflection of historical events) combined to make me stop reading these annoying signs altogether. Instead, I wandered slowly and aimlessly, looking at displays and snapping pictures until even this lackadaisical passivity got boring.

What's more, (if you'll permit me to complain just once more about this museum!), the displays were hardly interactive at all. There were lots of paintings, wood/clay models to peer at as well as plenty of items behind glass, but there was very little for the museum goer to do besides wander and snap pictures. I've perhaps become spoiled by places like The Science Centre in Toronto, but I'd have to say that my one trip to the Beijing Capital Museum is plenty for me. I don't need to go back.
Time to board the bus that will take me "home" to my quiet dorm room so that I can take a nap.
May as well continue this snooze fest!
Filed under: Arts and Culture, History, Learning, Blogs, Stories, Asia, China, A Canadian in Beijing














Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
fog Apr 28th 2009 9:30AM
hi, ember,
when you use english mirror which you have obtained from textbooks and media in west to look into the capital museum and china, of course you would get above impression: the some mischances lost in that place. can you say that canadian museum's displays do not make elaborate selection of objects concerned for showing what they want to tell us? where are the disasters of local residents and colored labors brought by your colonists ancestors in canadian museums?
Peter Sep 15th 2009 2:55AM
This museum is really great. I don't understand all the racist comments here. In the museum, they just exhibit some ancient Chinese pottery, ceramics, jade, and other sculptures. These have nothing to do with propaganda at all.
You people should get up to date. China is now the biggest car market and one of the largest market for luxury items. So the 10,000 rmb painting is cheap for the locals. If the rich Chinese can LV, Prada etc they can afford that painting.
Again, in North America, they killed so many native Indians, but they do not mention it in US museums.
If you go to London museum, you can see lots of treasures fro mall over the world, including China. But the British imperialists don't tell you how many Chinese they killed when they looted those treasures.
Again, this is a very good museum, may be this caused the racists to be so jealous.
Peter Sep 15th 2009 2:58AM
what a joke, Caanda is just a village.
Peter Sep 15th 2009 2:59AM
what a joke? Canada is just a village, why bother. Who cares about Canada? hahaha
Peter Sep 15th 2009 3:05AM
I mean, when they displayed a piece of 2000 years old, ancient pottery what has that to do with the cultural revolution?
This museum displays artifacts dating from 500 years ago to 2000 years vs cultural revolution a 10 year period? and you are bothered by that?
Nancie May 26th 2007 5:13AM
Sounds something like the museum in Hoh Chi Minh City. Very modern, and lots of propaganda. The historic accuracy was definitely missing. Not all museums are created equal!
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stephanie porter May 26th 2007 4:51PM
hi ember -
sorry to hear about the disappointment of the capital museum. if it's any consolation, i had a similar experience during a pre-olympic visit to the atlanta history museum. many of the exhibits were dedicated to convincing visitors that atlanta was the NYC of the south. perhaps it's part of some sort of belief that if you say something often enough or in a permanent sort of way, you can will it to become true?!
on a positive note - have you noticed your blog now has it's own banner on the gadling site? this blog may just have to continue into "a canadian in ________". there are many sites and folks to report on back in north america and australia! so, this will be the start of my campaign. i am hoping if i mention it often enough it will become true : )
Jamie Rhein May 26th 2007 6:59PM
Hi Ember,
I think part of what you discovered is that the museum is meant to say more about the people who created it. Most of what we see in a museum is a concept of reality that reflects what the creators have honed in on. Perhaps China is just opening up to the notion of telling the truth about its history and it will take a while to make a museum that has a balance.
Lou May 26th 2007 9:39PM
Stephanie, I like the way you think!! :-D
Willy May 27th 2007 8:22AM
Revisionist history is a dangerous thing. It's likely, however, that as the gap between the end of the Revolution and the present widens, the Revision will be replaced with the Reality. Let's hope so. It's the only way a country can learn and evolve.
Kristin May 28th 2007 12:23AM
The couple of weeks I spent in Beijing left me the same feeling. A lot of things seemed fake and designed specifically for foreign tourists (by the government or otherwise). That really became clear to me once I arrived in Chengdu, when it was almost a relief to escape all that. I was even disappointed by the Chaoyan artist district, which was beautiful but with abstract paintings for 10,000 yuan, was totally institutionalized to be out of reach to regular Chinese folks and appeal to wealthy Westerners.
biker_frog Jun 2nd 2007 3:20AM
It makes perfect sense to me, both the reaction and the museum. Who would want to lose face in front of foreigners/strangers! Among relations, it's ok to speak openly...it's both a privilege and a responsibility. Also with being treated as equal and then as a stranger is both upsetting and confusing. Finally, I really agree that the cultural and regional explorations are the most facinating part of an adventure.
Nevertheless, I love the posts. I feel compelled to be a part of your adventure. Xiexie…Zan